I am creating two rooms in basement: a laundry room that might be converted later to something else and a library. I have several wiring questions

1. Do I have to have a receptacles controlled by a switch in each of these rooms? If I have to then is it one receptacle enough? What does NEC say about that receptacle? Must it be closest to the switch?

2. Can I install 20 A receptacles in those rooms? All wiring is done by 12 AWG wire and 20 A breaker.

3. What height must receptacles be installed at? What's the minimum and maximum distance between receptacles?

 

1)In both rooms you'll need either one switch controlled receptacle, or one switch controlled overhead light. I would install overhead lights in both, definitely in the laundry room. I don't think there is anything in the code requiring the switch receptacle to be closest to the switch, but it's not a bad idea if the room's layout permits.

2)Yes you can install 20 amp receptacles in both rooms, but if you don't have any tools or appliances with a special 20 amp plug, it doesn't serve much purpose. In your laundry room, you'll need one 20 amp circuit that serves the washer only. So you are looking at two circuits minimum.

3)Install your receptacles where they are convenient. This probably means about 4 feet high for the washer and about 1 foot high for the other receptacles. There is no minimum spacing requirement, but the maximum spacing between receptacles in most rooms is 12 feet. This is to prevent the use of extension cords, as most lamps have about a 6 foot cord.

 

Can the 'switch controlled overhead light' be a pull-chain type light fixture?

We have a small HVAC room that was created when I framed in the rest of the basement, and I can't find a good location for a seperate wall-mounted switch. The basement will be inspected so everything has to be 'by the book'.

Thank you!!

Glen

 

In most rooms, a pull chain fixture would NOT be permitted, a wall switch is required. However, I don't know for sure if a laundry room would fall under the same rules. I believe it probably would. One of the pros on this forum will know for sure.

 

Just thought of something else. Is your service panel in the basement? Does your HVAC equipment have a means for disconnecting it in sight? A lot of the homes around here have the service panels in the basement and no disconnect at the furnace, because the panel is nearby and within view of the furnace. When you start framing off the basement and close up the furnace area, there's no longer a disconnect in sight, and many people neglect to add one. Don't know if this applies to your particular situation, but I thought I'd mention it just in case.

 

Thanks for the quick replies... Our service panel is in the garage and there is a switch on the side of the HVAC that cuts off power to the unit.

Looks like I'll be down there scratching my head looking for a light switch location!

Thanks - Glen

 

First a caveat: I don't know code and that's why I lurk in this forum looking for little things which may have slipped past me while I'm working on my plan for rewiring this fixer-upper. (I was supposed to be finished by now, but I decided to do everything under one permit, so I had a lot to learn on all kinds of subjects and of course, life always causes some kind of delays, but I'm almost there...)

In an effort to seek clarification for myself and in the process, potentially help; My manuals use ambiguous terms such as, "point of entry" and "near the entrance"; Are these terms defined by the whims of the inspectors, or is there a specific requirement of x number of inches?

Ideally in my laundry room, I'd like to install a motion-sensor switch opposite the door, or about 4' 9" straight across. Would this be an expilicit violation, or would it simply be up to the building department as to whether or not this would be acceptable? And to bring my question under the topic of this thread; Could Gabling2 possibly put a switch someplace equally as far, but truly operate the light from one of those $1.50 screw-in pull-chains?

(Of course in my application, if the members of this forum thought that the heat generated by a water heater, the washer and the dryer would end-up messing with the motion switch to the point of making it worthless, I'd also appreciate a heads-up, so that I don't waste money buying what could be an expensive lesson)

Thanks in Advance;
R

 

I think if it was aimed at the door it could be adjusted as to work alright. As long as there was a disconnect switch for the detector it certainly wouldnt be a code problem. Most of the time point of entry and near are just what they mean. It needs to be convenient for the operator to use,,, not stumble around in the dark looking for the light. Think of it like this,, could a blind person find the switch? ha

 

This is from the 2002 NEC.....I don't know what code cycle you are on but don't think anything has changed.

 

Gabling2,
The wall switch requirement also applies to your HVAC room.
210.70 (A)(3)

 

Ok, thanks for the definite answer. Back to the drawing board!!!

 

What does "lighting outlet" mean? If I have in the room ceiling recessed lights controlled by dimmed switch do I also need in that room another switch that controls a receptacle?

 

"Lighting outlet" is NEC-speak for a light fixture.

If you have recessed lights controlled by a dimmer, that is sufficient.

Just FYI: Most normal people use the word "outlet" to refer to what we would call a "receptacle" or a "receptacle outlet". However, the NEC defines the word "outlet" to mean any point at which power is taken. So to an electrician, the word "outlet" equally applies to receptacles, smoke detectors, and lighting fixtures. This is just one small example of how it might be misleading to read the NEC unless you are familiar with exactly how it defines terms.