I finally got my approval from the town on my electrical plans for my basement. They only required one small change, which was to add a wall switch to the storage area in the unfinished part of my basement (there are already pull-chain lights there, but I guess they want me to upgrade them).

Anyhow, does the definition of "rough inspection" vary much? I'm not sure what "rough" means. I could ask the town, but it's really much easier to get answers here. I assume "rough" means all the boxes and wiring installed w/ no switches or receptacles. Wire pulled into the sub-panel, but not connected to breakers; wire run into the main panel but not connected to a breaker.

Is this correct?

Thanks,
Jim

 

A rough inspection is required to let the inspector see any wiring that will be covered up with insulation and/or drywall when he comes back to make his final inspection.

I pull all my wiring, set all my boxes, and make all my "joints" including preparing grounds on my rough-in. There will be places where I "hide" wiring inside walls to be pulled out later. I usually make myself a drawing of there exact locations and where the studs are in the wall before they are hidden. Such locations include range hoods, vanity lights, fluoresent fixtures, and flood lights. You only have to pull your wiring into the panel on the rough-in if the area around the panel will be covered.

 

Thanks for the reply....you've spurred another question though. I think you've already answered it base on your reply, but here goes....

For my baseboard electric heaters, which have "boxes" as part of the unit, can I just leave wire hanging in the wall and pull it out into the box, or do I need a box in the wall, too?

Thanks,
Jim

 

Run the wiring directly into the wiring compartment on the heaters. If you know what heaters you are going to use, then you can make it easy on yourself and stub the wires through the sheetrock (as you are hanging it) exactly where they will be needed. Factors such as floor covering, baseboards, and knockout location on heaters need to be factored in. Run no more than 2 cables to each heater (two 12-2 cables can be run through one 3/8" romex connector.

The same holds for other hidden wires. If you can stub them out exactly where needed you are one step ahead.

 

I already have the heaters - 2 are 1,000 Watt, 2 are 1,250. They're 240V. I'm putting them on a 30 amp breaker. Is 12-gauge wire okay?

I should only need one wire in and one wire out max. I'm using them in pairs with each pair hooked up to a wall-mounted thermostat.

I know where I want them, so I'll just leave a stub through the wall when I put up the drywall.

Thanks,
Jim

 

You must use #10 AWG on the 30 amp circuit for the baseboard heaters.

How are you planning to route the cables to the themostats and baseboard heaters?

I assume that you were planning to use a 30 amp branch circuit to feed all four heaters?

 

Okay - #10 it is.

I haven't really looked at the thermostats to see how they work. I'm assuming (you know what happens when we do that) that they are simply switches. I run 220 to them, then to a heater, and from that heater to another heater?

I was planning on using a 30 amp branch circuit to feed all 4 heaters.

Jim

 

You will probably have three 10-2 cables in each of your switch boxes (except the last one). That is 6 current carrying conductors, plus one for the ground, plus two for the device. This is assuming that you don't make any allowances for cable clamps. That is 9 conductor allowances x 2.5 = 22.5 cu.in box required. They make a 22.5 cu.in. plastic nail-on (largest single gang box I've seen). However, working with (3) 10-2 cables and a thermostat in one box would be kind of tough for a DIY'er.

If you can make junction boxes so that you would only have two cables in each switch box you will be better off. I'm also not sure about putting (2) 10-2's in the same 3/8" romex connector at the heater.

I would suggest (2) 20A circuits with (2) heaters on each circuit. The 12-2 is so much easier to work with. I would still go with the 22.5 cu. in. boxes.

 

That's easy enough to do - I have enough room in the sub-panel. Thanks for the tips.

Jim