NOMA 220v to 110v Adaptor - Does this work?
#1
NOMA 220v to 110v Adaptor - Does this work?
hi all.. I have done a search and seen alot of posting regarding 220v to 110v issue. Again, I am in the same boat.. I have a new gas range which require a 110v plug but I have a 240v plug on the wall...
I found this adaptor from my local hardware store...
Click here... this is the link to the adaptor I am talking about..
Does this work? Is it safe? Is there any transformer inside this device? How does this device work?
thanks...
I found this adaptor from my local hardware store...
Click here... this is the link to the adaptor I am talking about..
Does this work? Is it safe? Is there any transformer inside this device? How does this device work?
thanks...
#3
The information on the advertisement does not give much in regard to how it works or how it is connected.
If there is a transformer, and it derives the neutral at the adpater/transformer, then it is called a "seperately derived source" and has code implications regarding grounding electrode conductor connections.
The adapter seems to simple to do what they say it does correctly. Is it UL Listed?
It is best just to change the circuit.
Does the existing circuit have two insulated conductors and one bare conductor? It may be as easy as changing the recept and the panel breaker since you are going to a lower ampacity.
If there is a transformer, and it derives the neutral at the adpater/transformer, then it is called a "seperately derived source" and has code implications regarding grounding electrode conductor connections.
The adapter seems to simple to do what they say it does correctly. Is it UL Listed?
It is best just to change the circuit.
Does the existing circuit have two insulated conductors and one bare conductor? It may be as easy as changing the recept and the panel breaker since you are going to a lower ampacity.
#4
I can't tell from the picture if the plug has 3 or 4 prongs on it.
In the US (and canada I beleive) converting from 240 ->120 is easy and requires no transformers or the such. IN Europe and elswhere they use 220 as their base voltage, so then a transformer is needed.
On our system you get two seperate 120V feeds from the power company. The Voltage is a sine wave, and the two feeds are out of sync so that when one sine wave is at the largest positve voltage, the other is at the largest negative voltage (i.e. they are 180 degrees out of phase). So while the voltage between any 1 hot and neutral/ground is 120V, the voltage between them is 240V. So when an aplliance requires 240 volts, you simple connect both hots to it. With a 240 volt system you don't even need the neutral since the current flows back and forth on the two hots.
So if you have a 240 outlet, to get 120 you simply take 1 hot, a neutral and a ground. That is why I asked if the adapter ha 3 or 4 prongs. If it has 4 (actually if your receptical has 4 slots), then you have a seperate neutral and seperate ground available. If you receptical has only 3 slots, then you have two hots, and a ground only. While you could still derive 120 from this you end up with an outlet with no ground, or worse, and combined neutral/ground which would possible put stray current onto the frame of the stove.
So if you have a 4 slot receptical, and you don't like messing with wires, the adapter would probably be fine. If you have only 3 slots, then I would do like HandyRon suggest and switch the circuit over to a 120v circuit. This would require you getting a new 15 or 20 amp single pole breaker, a new outlet, and some scraps of wire and wirenuts. You would also have to feel comfortable working in your main panel. You get all this from Homedepot for less than $10 probably.
let us know.
In the US (and canada I beleive) converting from 240 ->120 is easy and requires no transformers or the such. IN Europe and elswhere they use 220 as their base voltage, so then a transformer is needed.
On our system you get two seperate 120V feeds from the power company. The Voltage is a sine wave, and the two feeds are out of sync so that when one sine wave is at the largest positve voltage, the other is at the largest negative voltage (i.e. they are 180 degrees out of phase). So while the voltage between any 1 hot and neutral/ground is 120V, the voltage between them is 240V. So when an aplliance requires 240 volts, you simple connect both hots to it. With a 240 volt system you don't even need the neutral since the current flows back and forth on the two hots.
So if you have a 240 outlet, to get 120 you simply take 1 hot, a neutral and a ground. That is why I asked if the adapter ha 3 or 4 prongs. If it has 4 (actually if your receptical has 4 slots), then you have a seperate neutral and seperate ground available. If you receptical has only 3 slots, then you have two hots, and a ground only. While you could still derive 120 from this you end up with an outlet with no ground, or worse, and combined neutral/ground which would possible put stray current onto the frame of the stove.
So if you have a 4 slot receptical, and you don't like messing with wires, the adapter would probably be fine. If you have only 3 slots, then I would do like HandyRon suggest and switch the circuit over to a 120v circuit. This would require you getting a new 15 or 20 amp single pole breaker, a new outlet, and some scraps of wire and wirenuts. You would also have to feel comfortable working in your main panel. You get all this from Homedepot for less than $10 probably.
let us know.
#5
The adaptor seems to plug into a 3-hole electric range receptacle. If the 110 gas range plug that goes into the other side only has two-prongs, then that would be okay. But if the 110 plug has three-prongs, then this would probably be a code violation.
#6
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The adaptor has a CSA (Canadian Standards Ass) listing which means it is safe if used according to the instructions.
Looking at the picture, it appears that is a 3-prong device that will fit into a 4-prong range outlet. A 4-prong range outlet utilizes 2 hots, a neutral and a ground. The 3-prongs on the adapter utilize ONE of the hots, the neutral, and the ground. There is a built-in 15A fuse that protects the circuit.
That said, I think this is a great device but can only be used on a 4-wire range circuit (and receptacle). It will not fit into a 3-wire range receptacle and there's no way to convert a 3-wire range receptacle to a 120V 3-prong receptacle with such an adapter.
If the adapter does have 4 prongs, one of them isn't being used. The package should tell the prospective buyer that it will only work in a 4-prong range receptacle or there will be a lot of people wasting their time and having to return the item to the place of purchase.
Looking at the picture, it appears that is a 3-prong device that will fit into a 4-prong range outlet. A 4-prong range outlet utilizes 2 hots, a neutral and a ground. The 3-prongs on the adapter utilize ONE of the hots, the neutral, and the ground. There is a built-in 15A fuse that protects the circuit.
That said, I think this is a great device but can only be used on a 4-wire range circuit (and receptacle). It will not fit into a 3-wire range receptacle and there's no way to convert a 3-wire range receptacle to a 120V 3-prong receptacle with such an adapter.
If the adapter does have 4 prongs, one of them isn't being used. The package should tell the prospective buyer that it will only work in a 4-prong range receptacle or there will be a lot of people wasting their time and having to return the item to the place of purchase.
#8

Looks like a 3 prong 50amp male plug to a 110 volt female outlet. There is very little info given. Looks as though it is designed to use the bare ground wire as grounded conductor and does not meet the National Electric Code.
I would opt for either changing the existing to 11o volts or running the circuit from another source. It would be fairly easy to drop a wire from the vent hood if you have one.
I would opt for either changing the existing to 11o volts or running the circuit from another source. It would be fairly easy to drop a wire from the vent hood if you have one.
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tex, I agree that it looks like it has 3 prongs on the 50A side, but they look straight instead of angled. If so, the adapter can only plug into a 4-prong straight blade 50A receptacle. I don't see a problem if that's the case.
If the 3-prongs are angled in order to be able to be plugged into a 3-prong 50A receptacle then you are correct in that it would have to have a built-in jumper and the 120V neutral & ground would be tapped off the same wire. I don't see how the product could have received its CSA listing if that was the case.
If the 3-prongs are angled in order to be able to be plugged into a 3-prong 50A receptacle then you are correct in that it would have to have a built-in jumper and the 120V neutral & ground would be tapped off the same wire. I don't see how the product could have received its CSA listing if that was the case.