Programmable as a 3-way?

I mentioned in an earlier post that I have an additional question concerning my plan for a complete rewire that I will do under a permit and with the appropriate inspections. I alluded to the fact that this question may delve into the realm of the theoretical, so I thank you in advance for your indulgence.

I live in what I consider a high crime community; If you go out of town, you may return to find your appliances or furniture missing and if you leave your garage door up while you dash to the store, you could come home to find a half-dozen folks picking through your belongings; Heck, we still have jailbreaks and train robberies in my neck of the woods....

What I'd like to do is simulate-somewhat, a Levithon Automated Home System without spending $35 per light switch. Ideally, I'd like to define two light circuits that could be wired, either through a programmable switch or with the programmable as the three-way.

I hope this makes sense, but in case it doesn't, I'll offer a simplified word-picture of what I have in mind, though to be honest, it isn't exactly accurate; What I'd like to do is basically put every other light on a single circuit and have a programmable switch, operate as sort of a three-way, so that I can program the two circuits to be operating on an alternating schedule when I or the future homeowner is out-of-town because after all, I did buy this fixer-upper knowing that I will be selling it in a couple of years.

And because all of my previous wiring experience consists of doing as I was told by folks more knowledgable than myself, I have once again, turned to this forum in hopes that one of you kind experts will help me think this through;

What I have in mind is installing an Intermatic SS7C in the wiring closet and either, pigtailing it onto the circuit as a true three way for the entire circuit, or wiring it into the front of the line, so that if power is on through the programmable, the room switches would operate as normal; Or, if the programmable was set to auto and the room switches were turned-on, then the lights would follow the schedule set by the programmable.

Because there apparently is no "common" on the programmable, I assume that wiring the circuit through the switch would be the way to go; But, before I draw this onto my plans, I'd really like to see if this is possible and get any hints, tips or instructions that you might want to share. And FYI; I'm thinking five to six standard overhead fixtures, per circuit. Though, I may want to include one flourescent fixture on each circuit, if that makes any difference in your response and of course, the cable will be sized to fit the load.

Any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated and I'll be glad to provide any clarification desired. Also it should be pointed-out that I am not married to an Intermatic brand programmable, it's just the one that I can find which is also in my local supply house's catalog, so if you have an alternative product to point me towards, I'd be forever grateful.

Thanks in Advance;
R

 

Check out www.smarthome.com or www.x10.com

I've been using X10 for years. If you have a PC, you can create some pretty elaborate macros that are triggered by motion, dusk/dawn, or a remote control. Simple X10 switches are $10-12 each; dimmers are more. A basic X10 switch can be dimmed from the PC or via a remote. You can get an IBM starter kit for around $70-80 (if memory serves) that comes with a programmable module that stores all the macros.

When used with inexpensive wireless motion/photoelectric sensors it makes for a great security system. I have them all around the outside of my house. Each one causes a different chain of events (macro) so I know which one was tripped. I don't use them so much for security but for convenience. I never come home to a dark house, and I can walk around the yard and lights turn on for me.

Good luck.

Jim

 

Thanks Jimmy (and BTW: Please let us know how your rough-in comes-out); Unfortunately, I'm one of those folks who are opposed to wireless, especially the x-10 for a variety of reasons, some of which has been documented in other forums on this board; But thanks for the suggestion, nonetheless...

It seems to me that if the circuit was wired "through" the programmable, with the programmable controlling the power supply, then the lights on the circuit should follow the program. But to be honest, I'm in a bit over my head with this question and that's why I've consulted this forum; Hoping that trial/error and a whole lot of wire won't be wasted, while I figure out if what I believe to be true, may.

Once again, I appreciate the suggestion and good luck with your project. I, like so many others have been following your progress and wish you great success.

Peace, Love & Happiness;
R

 

Okey dokey....but X10 isn't wireless. The transmitters I chose to use happen to be wireless, but they don't have to be. X10 communicates across the existing electrical wires.

Anyhow, if based on your research it's not for you then that's fine.

Good luck with your project....thanks for the kind words.

Jim

 

OK - Now, I've delved into the support docs for the Intermatic Programmable Switches and though I had read them before, I actually got into reading them again because I still have this question hanging over my head.

For the information of others, the instructions do include directions for wiring as a straight three-way and though I mentioned the ss7c in my initial post, I've discovered that it can't be connected to a cable longer than 30' and the ss8 which has identical wiring instructions can support a length of up to 100', so I'm changing my product focus, but the wiring would remain the same...

In an effort to more fully understand whether or not, what I'd like to do is possible, I've uploaded the following excerpt from the manual and my theory will follow the image;



To this uneducated, inexperienced newbie it looks as if; If I were to run a "circuit" as is labelled "additional wire" in the third diagram, install a "jumper" as a continuation of the circuit, prior to wiring-in the actual room switch; What I have theorized might possibly work. Or, I could possibly, simply install the programmable at the head of the run and wire the actual room switches, regular. Though, I don't have any diagrams and to be honest, I haven't fully investigated this alternative at this time, either.

As a reminder; I'd like to install a single programmable switch as an operating alternative to powering all of the lights on a circuit, as a security/home automation measure. Any help, suggestions, tips, advice or a yay/nay would be appreciated.

Thanks in Advance;
R