Hooking up major appliances


  #1  
Old 05-10-03, 02:32 PM
BuzzHazzard
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Hooking up major appliances

I would like to know the preferred technique/procedure to hook up major appliances. Here's the situation:

New construction. I need to hook up a cooktop (with 8/2) and a double oven (with 8/3). The appliances instructions specify the preferred location of the junction boxes. The NM cable exits the wall/cabinet in a slightly different location (maybe 12-18" away within the same cabinet space). Each appliance has a several foot long "whip" of flex metallic cable.

1) I would prefer to use the center knockout on the back of a 4" square metal box, use an appropriate cable clamp, and essentially mount the box over the hole where the NM exits the wall/cabinet. Then connect the whip to another knockout in the box. Potential downside: This places the JB in a location different then the appliance manufacturer recommends but well within a distance to allow me to wire with the whip.

2) In lieu of that solution, if I place the JB at the recommended locations, now I have to get the NM from where it exits the wall/cabinet to the box. I tried this on the oven using that Carlon flex plastic ENT. Between the cable and the ENT, the combination was very stiff and I started wondering if plastic ENT behind a hot oven was a good idea (although the wooden cabinet is just as close). The hole in the wall is big enough that I can slide the ENT over the NM and into the wall cavity, which I can't really do with the sharp edges of metal flex.

2a) As an aside, the NM for the double oven will not be exposed because of the cabinet itself. The cooktop on the other hand, sits over a base cabinet which is accessable. So I can see why the cooktop NM may require protection, but not sure the double oven cable even needs it.

3) Dishwasher--I have a 4' long NM cable in the cabinet space to which I will hook up the dishwasher. Is this all that is required--i.e. no other protection needed for the cable?

I have not been able to find an answer to this issue in any of my many books on wiring, so am looking for the excellent advice always provided by those in the know on this forum.

Thanks in advance.

Rob
 
  #2  
Old 05-10-03, 04:58 PM
M
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If you have enough nm sticking out of the wall, can you just cut the sheetrock over to where you need it and run the wire over there in the wall?
As for the dishwasher, thats is all you need. In my state they also require a hardwired dishwasher to have a lockout on the breaker.
 
  #3  
Old 05-10-03, 06:05 PM
BuzzHazzard
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Originally posted by marcerrin
If you have enough nm sticking out of the wall, can you just cut the sheetrock over to where you need it and run the wire over there in the wall?
As for the dishwasher, thats is all you need. In my state they also require a hardwired dishwasher to have a lockout on the breaker.
I thought about that, but in one case the NM comes through the drywall and then the cabinet back. In the other case, I would have to not only carve out the drywall but drill through a stud and then I'd be in a cold air return.

Thanks for the reply.
 
  #4  
Old 05-11-03, 06:24 PM
BuzzHazzard
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And re: the dishwasher, I have the dishwasher powered through a switch within sight of the dishwasher. I'll have to check with the inspector and see if he still wants a lockout at the breaker box.

Still hoping for some answers regarding the oven and cooktop.

Thanks
 
  #5  
Old 05-11-03, 06:39 PM
txsparky
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The wiring behind the built in oven will not require any further protection. Just be sure to make your splices in a j-box. The wiring under the cooktop (inside a cabinet that will be used for storage ) should be protected. Your way of mounting a j-box over the hole that the wires exits is the most common way that I know of. With # 8 wires ,I would use at least a 4 -11/16 " box for the splices. More room to work with the #8's. Why did you run 8-2 to the cooktop instead of 8-3 ? If the cooktop requires a neutral (most likely ) then your installation will not meet the requirements spelled out by the NEC.
 
  #6  
Old 05-11-03, 07:18 PM
BuzzHazzard
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Originally posted by txsparky
Why did you run 8-2 to the cooktop instead of 8-3 ? If the cooktop requires a neutral (most likely ) then your installation will not meet the requirements spelled out by the NEC.
Thanks for the reply. The cooktop does not require a neutral. I was a bit surprised about this as well, and wanted to make sure the instructions were not in error. The cooktop conduit whip contains a red, a black, and a ground wire. In retrospect, I probably should have run 8-3 in case I ever replace the unit with one requiring a neutral. Good news is that with a little fishing, I can still do that someday if I need to.

Rob
 
 

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