oops, drilled through lighting cable! advice please
#1
05-17-03, 03:50 PM
oops, drilled through lighting cable! advice please
I drilled through a power connection for the lights in my beadroom. I was thinking of fixing it with a connecting block (you know the see-through plastic stuff. Its 2 wire cable. Is this okay? Just want to make sure its save before I do it and I'm getting the room replastered soon.
Cheers
Cheers
#2
05-17-03, 05:40 PM
All connections must be made in a junction box. There must be at least 6 inches of wire entering the box. You can not splice the wire and leave it in the wall. You will need to replace a section of wire to get the 6 inch requirement.
#3
05-18-03, 04:00 AM
wow, that much? is it a danger if i dont? my main concern (apart from doing it properly and safely) is ensuring i dont get a bulge in the wall where the connection/box is. are there slim boxes?
thanks for getting back to me btw
just dont wanna have to a} rip out the whole thing b} pay £100 for an electrition (would it cost that much?)
thanks for getting back to me btw
just dont wanna have to a} rip out the whole thing b} pay £100 for an electrition (would it cost that much?)
#4
05-18-03, 08:42 AM
There are slimmer device boxes with smaller internal volumes, but the box shouldn't make a bulge in the wall unless you have really thin walls. You see this box that make your splice in will have to remain accessible even after the room is finished, not hidden inside the wall. So this means you will have to have a junction box, just like one that a switch or receptacle is installed into, with a blank cover over it. Not the most attractive alternative.
Or, since you said you were having the room replastered, you could just replace the entire run of cable. This would be the most electrically sound and visually appealing solution.
Or, since you said you were having the room replastered, you could just replace the entire run of cable. This would be the most electrically sound and visually appealing solution.
#5
05-18-03, 09:00 AM
Member
technoflare, Drilling through a cable is a big deal. Fix it properly. There is no easy way out.
#6
05-18-03, 09:35 AM
so, let me get this clear. Its either a place that is accessable or new wire right from switch to the exit from the room? If I do that is it likely that it will be a simple connection when I get that far?
I know its a big deal, that is why I am here. I'm new to this and am trying to find the easyest basic solution that is safe.
I know its a big deal, that is why I am here. I'm new to this and am trying to find the easyest basic solution that is safe.
#7
05-18-03, 10:26 AM
Member
First, it is essential to determine whether this cable is a switch loop, a traveler cable, a switched hot cable, or a continuously live cable.
If you cannot figure out which of those it is, or if it is any of the first three, then the following options will work:
(1) Install a box on the stud on either side of the one you drilled. Cut the cable where you drilled it. Feed each end into one of the new boxes. But several feet of new cable of the same size and type and number of wires as the cable you have. Use wire nuts to splice the new cable between the two new boxes. Put a blank cover plate on each box. You have the option of using either side of the wall to make the box opening, so you'll pick the side that has the least cosmetic impact.
(2) If you can remove the cable from the spot you drilled to the existing boxes on both sides, you can replace this segment of cable.
(3) If you can only remove the cable to one side, then you will need only one new box with a blank cover plate.
If you have a continuously hot cable, then you have the same options as above, but you have the additional option of installing receptacles in your new box(es). This will lessen the sting since it will give you a new receptacle in exchange for your work. Of course, don't put in a receptacle unless this is a 15-amp or 20-amp 120-volt circuit. And don't add a receptacle if the circuit serves a kitchen, dining room, bathroom, or laundry room.
If you cannot figure out which of those it is, or if it is any of the first three, then the following options will work:
(1) Install a box on the stud on either side of the one you drilled. Cut the cable where you drilled it. Feed each end into one of the new boxes. But several feet of new cable of the same size and type and number of wires as the cable you have. Use wire nuts to splice the new cable between the two new boxes. Put a blank cover plate on each box. You have the option of using either side of the wall to make the box opening, so you'll pick the side that has the least cosmetic impact.
(2) If you can remove the cable from the spot you drilled to the existing boxes on both sides, you can replace this segment of cable.
(3) If you can only remove the cable to one side, then you will need only one new box with a blank cover plate.
If you have a continuously hot cable, then you have the same options as above, but you have the additional option of installing receptacles in your new box(es). This will lessen the sting since it will give you a new receptacle in exchange for your work. Of course, don't put in a receptacle unless this is a 15-amp or 20-amp 120-volt circuit. And don't add a receptacle if the circuit serves a kitchen, dining room, bathroom, or laundry room.
#8
05-18-03, 10:45 AM
I'm sorry to be such a no-brainer on this but I' new to all this.
I have put some seperation between the cables whilst I assess the options, and I can now activate the trip. If however the swtich below the cable is switched on the trip goes, so maybe you can workout from that what it is.
So, my bodge solution (connecting block) I guess is an unsafe option. And I'm thinking the idea of burying a connection in plaster is a no no however the connection is done? May I ask why as long as its insulated? I'm not questioning your comments, just trying to understand them better thats all.
As I've said I am gonna have the room re-plasered, but if the cable goes all the way up to the celling then i have problems as there is some coving there and that makes it a serious job as id have to take that off
I have put some seperation between the cables whilst I assess the options, and I can now activate the trip. If however the swtich below the cable is switched on the trip goes, so maybe you can workout from that what it is.
So, my bodge solution (connecting block) I guess is an unsafe option. And I'm thinking the idea of burying a connection in plaster is a no no however the connection is done? May I ask why as long as its insulated? I'm not questioning your comments, just trying to understand them better thats all.
As I've said I am gonna have the room re-plasered, but if the cable goes all the way up to the celling then i have problems as there is some coving there and that makes it a serious job as id have to take that off
#9
05-18-03, 11:12 AM
Is the cable-break in the wall above the switch and is the cable running in a verticle or horizontal direction at the point of the break?
If the cable is runing vertically "up" the wall from the switch-box you could bring the "loose" end of the cable from the ceiling fixture(s) into a wall-box, "fish" a new section of cable between the existing switch-box and the new wall box, and use the new wall box for a sconce-type fixture.----Good Luck!!!!
If the cable is runing vertically "up" the wall from the switch-box you could bring the "loose" end of the cable from the ceiling fixture(s) into a wall-box, "fish" a new section of cable between the existing switch-box and the new wall box, and use the new wall box for a sconce-type fixture.----Good Luck!!!!
#11
05-18-03, 05:55 PM
I think you are in UK. I didn't notice until you mentiond the price in pounds. Most of the rules quoted above may not apply to you. They use ring circuits and different wiring methods in UK.
