GFCI Tripping
#1
06-14-03, 10:01 PM
GFCI Tripping when jets turned on
I wired my own (used) 220 spa. I ran #8 wiring from the panel about 60' to the GFCI and #8 wiring from GFCI to Spa another 20'. I tested all electrical after and it worked. I attempted to heat and it ran for several minutes then tripped GFCI. My first thought was the #8 wire instead of the #6. When I turn the jets on now it trips instantly. I would think if the resistance in the wiring is causing the GFCI to trip, the jets/heater would run (at least a little bit) before the GFCI tripped? No!
Any suggestions? Thanks
Any suggestions? Thanks
#2
06-16-03, 06:37 AM
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Topic Moved
Hello: hovrens
Since your question pertains to an electrical problem, I have moved it to this electrical forum. The question is more likely to obtain a reply in this forum than in the former.
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Since your question pertains to an electrical problem, I have moved it to this electrical forum. The question is more likely to obtain a reply in this forum than in the former.
Regards & Good Luck
Web Host & Multiple Forums Moderator
Sharp Advice
#4
06-16-03, 05:56 PM
Member
I don't know what your GFCI tripping problem is, but it's not related to the difference between #6 and #8 (although I'm suspicious of the #8 as a source of possible other hazards). There are many, many specialized rules of spa wiring that don't apply to other circuits in your house.
If you'd care to give us more details, we can spot other problems (but maybe you don't want to know).
If you'd care to give us more details, we can spot other problems (but maybe you don't want to know).
#5
06-20-03, 04:47 PM
OK!!
I ran 4 wires from panel to GFCI (#8) just like the attachement shows.
I would think the one (biggest) problem using #8 would be the fire hazard from heat of resistance in the wiring (is this what your thinking John?). I would not think this would trip a breaker unless the heat damaged (fried) the wires.
My other thinking is the button itself that turns on the jets is bad. It worked when I first wired it up and several times after. One other thought is a bad GFCI? Someone told me this is very common. This is a 50AMP GFCI made for spas
I ran 4 wires from panel to GFCI (#8) just like the attachement shows.
I would think the one (biggest) problem using #8 would be the fire hazard from heat of resistance in the wiring (is this what your thinking John?). I would not think this would trip a breaker unless the heat damaged (fried) the wires.
My other thinking is the button itself that turns on the jets is bad. It worked when I first wired it up and several times after. One other thought is a bad GFCI? Someone told me this is very common. This is a 50AMP GFCI made for spas
#6
06-20-03, 05:26 PM
Member
I was kinda thinking you might give us more details about precisely what you connected to what and where. I'd really like for you to tell us every single connection you made everywhere you made a connection.
#7
06-21-03, 01:22 PM
Sorry,
I posted a schematic attachement to my reply that apparently did not get attached. I am going off memory but for the most part, off the panel I ran green (ground) from the bus bar and if I recall the white came off the same bus bar as the green. Then red and black came off the 50 amp breaker. This runs about 60' underground through 1" PVC and comes out again at the GFCI (50 amp). From there the green (ground) has its own bus bar seperate from the white which has it's own bus bar. Then red and black again come off the GFCI breaker. This again goes back underground another 20' through 1" pvc and then connects to the spas 4 wire system. (Green to green, black to black, red to red, and white to white).
I posted a schematic attachement to my reply that apparently did not get attached. I am going off memory but for the most part, off the panel I ran green (ground) from the bus bar and if I recall the white came off the same bus bar as the green. Then red and black came off the 50 amp breaker. This runs about 60' underground through 1" PVC and comes out again at the GFCI (50 amp). From there the green (ground) has its own bus bar seperate from the white which has it's own bus bar. Then red and black again come off the GFCI breaker. This again goes back underground another 20' through 1" pvc and then connects to the spas 4 wire system. (Green to green, black to black, red to red, and white to white).
#8
06-21-03, 01:45 PM
Member
The white wire must run through the GFCI too, just like the red and black. There should be both an input and output connection on the GFCI for the white wire. If you didn't to that, it won't work properly.
#10
06-30-03, 07:26 PM
WIRE SIZE
back to basics
12= 20 AMP
10= 30
8= 40
6= 50
FOR LONG RUN (OVER 100 ') UP SIZE WIRE (COUNT DROPS AND RISERS)
GFCI BREAKER IS MORE SENSITIVE THAN STANDARD.
GFCI MAY BE WEAK ??????
Not a big deal to change the two leads to # 6 Thhn, neutral and grd are fine, you are not up to code (us) with #8 any way......
You could even run #6 above grade for test run to see if solves problem.
12= 20 AMP
10= 30
8= 40
6= 50
FOR LONG RUN (OVER 100 ') UP SIZE WIRE (COUNT DROPS AND RISERS)
GFCI BREAKER IS MORE SENSITIVE THAN STANDARD.
GFCI MAY BE WEAK ??????
Not a big deal to change the two leads to # 6 Thhn, neutral and grd are fine, you are not up to code (us) with #8 any way......
You could even run #6 above grade for test run to see if solves problem.
