Recessed Lighting Problem
#1
06-22-03, 08:43 PM
Recessed Lighting Problem
My wife tried to change a bulb in our recessed lighting. The old bulb broke when she went to take it out and she said she saw a "flash". We turned off the breaker and removed the remainder of the bulb, then put the new bulb in. We turned the breaker back on and tried the switch and none of the lights come on. I checked all of the GFCI's in the house and the lights still do not work.
Any ideas out there?
Thanks!
Any ideas out there?
Thanks!
#2
06-22-03, 08:51 PM
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Location: Indiana
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Try reseting the breaker again. Have you checked for power at the switch or lights yet if so what were your findings.
#3
06-30-03, 06:34 PM
Sorry it took so long to answer your question......I just got back from vacation. I've reset the breaker a number of times with no luck. I checked the wires leading to the switch and I do have power there.
I guess I now need to know how I find out whether the switch is shot or whether the light socket is shot. Any suggestions on what to do next?
Thanks again!
I guess I now need to know how I find out whether the switch is shot or whether the light socket is shot. Any suggestions on what to do next?
Thanks again!
#4
07-02-03, 04:33 PM
Member
First, use a meter or circuit tester at the light socket. Measure for voltage between the button and the shell of the light socket.
Before breaking into the fixture, I'd look a few more times for another hidden GFCI.
If you still are without power, shut off the breaker and remove the can -- not the whole unit, just the can. This can be done from underneath often by bending some tabs. This will give you access to the wiring box (in a cramped sort of way). Disconnect the wiring, turn the breaker back on, and test the wiring in the box (with the wall switch on).
Before breaking into the fixture, I'd look a few more times for another hidden GFCI.
If you still are without power, shut off the breaker and remove the can -- not the whole unit, just the can. This can be done from underneath often by bending some tabs. This will give you access to the wiring box (in a cramped sort of way). Disconnect the wiring, turn the breaker back on, and test the wiring in the box (with the wall switch on).
#5
07-02-03, 06:42 PM
I tested the light socket...no voltage there. Again checked the entire house for all GFCIs...all were OK.
When I removed the can, disconnected the wiring, turned the breaker back on, turned the wall switch on, and tested the wiring in the box...I got nothing there either.
I should also add that the wall switch has two switches...one for the recessed lighting and the other for a wall outlet. When the breaker is on, the switch that controls the wall outlet works, but the one that controls the lighting doesn't. This also leads me to believe that it can't be a GFCI because that wiring box would have to be on the same GFCI circuit, right?
Thanks again for your help, John! Any idea what my next step should be?
When I removed the can, disconnected the wiring, turned the breaker back on, turned the wall switch on, and tested the wiring in the box...I got nothing there either.
I should also add that the wall switch has two switches...one for the recessed lighting and the other for a wall outlet. When the breaker is on, the switch that controls the wall outlet works, but the one that controls the lighting doesn't. This also leads me to believe that it can't be a GFCI because that wiring box would have to be on the same GFCI circuit, right?
Thanks again for your help, John! Any idea what my next step should be?
#6
07-03-03, 06:26 AM
Member
You're probably right. If both of these switches are on the same circuit (please verify), then the GFCI explanation seems unlikely.
You're going to have to start opening up more boxes on this circuit to see how far the voltage gets. Check for good connections on the switch first, especially if the wires are backstabbed into the switch. Move any backstabbed connections to the adjacent screw.
You're going to have to start opening up more boxes on this circuit to see how far the voltage gets. Check for good connections on the switch first, especially if the wires are backstabbed into the switch. Move any backstabbed connections to the adjacent screw.
#7
07-03-03, 01:47 PM
I'm not sure if my ignorance about electrical circuits shows yet, so forgive me if these questions sound stupid...
You said to "please verify" that both switches are on the same circuit. The only way I know how to do that is to turn the breaker off and find all of the switches and outlets that don't work while it's off. If this recessed light switch doesn't work anyway, I'll have no idea if it's on that circuit. Is there another way to find out?
Also, if I'm following you correctly, I should turn off the breaker, see what doesn't work, and then start opening those switches and outlets to check for voltage when I turn the breaker back on?
Would that include opening all 8 boxes on each recessed light as well as all outlets on the circuit? Am I more likely to find the problem in the lights (if so, I should probably start there first, huh)?
Thanks for bearing with me on this!
You said to "please verify" that both switches are on the same circuit. The only way I know how to do that is to turn the breaker off and find all of the switches and outlets that don't work while it's off. If this recessed light switch doesn't work anyway, I'll have no idea if it's on that circuit. Is there another way to find out?
Also, if I'm following you correctly, I should turn off the breaker, see what doesn't work, and then start opening those switches and outlets to check for voltage when I turn the breaker back on?
Would that include opening all 8 boxes on each recessed light as well as all outlets on the circuit? Am I more likely to find the problem in the lights (if so, I should probably start there first, huh)?
Thanks for bearing with me on this!
#8
07-03-03, 02:14 PM
Member
You said that you checked the wires at the switch box, and that you had power there. So I assume that this must be a reliable way to determine if both switches are on the same circuit. If the wires to both switches have voltage with the breaker is on, and both switches have no voltage when you turn a single breaker off, then they must be on the same circuit.
I'd start by checking the connections in the switch box itself. Since all 8 lights are out, that seems the most likely place for the problem to be. As I said earlier, pay particular attention to wires backstabbed into the switch. I am also assuming that there is a wire nut in this box with a bunch of white wires. Check that carefully too. If there are any white wires attached to either switch, let me know. If the switch to the lights is a 3-way switch or a dimmer switch, be sure to let me know that too.
If that fails, check the connections in each of the eight recessed can boxes. Start with the can closest to the switch. Check the connections and test for voltage.
I'd start by checking the connections in the switch box itself. Since all 8 lights are out, that seems the most likely place for the problem to be. As I said earlier, pay particular attention to wires backstabbed into the switch. I am also assuming that there is a wire nut in this box with a bunch of white wires. Check that carefully too. If there are any white wires attached to either switch, let me know. If the switch to the lights is a 3-way switch or a dimmer switch, be sure to let me know that too.
If that fails, check the connections in each of the eight recessed can boxes. Start with the can closest to the switch. Check the connections and test for voltage.
#9
07-03-03, 08:53 PM
Thanks again, John!
I just got in and, unfortunately, have to put this project on hold as I'm going away for a few days. I don't see a bunch of white wires in there, just one of each (black, white, green) attached to the switch. However, YES, it is a dimmer switch.
I'll check back again on Sunday night. Enjoy the holiday!
I just got in and, unfortunately, have to put this project on hold as I'm going away for a few days. I don't see a bunch of white wires in there, just one of each (black, white, green) attached to the switch. However, YES, it is a dimmer switch.
I'll check back again on Sunday night. Enjoy the holiday!
#10
07-04-03, 08:15 AM
Member
Stupid me. I should have asked the important questions first. Just replace the dimmer switch and forget everything else. You just have a simple switch failure.
