I tested it between the two screws and it read 120 V.
It is I think a double breaker,it has two switches,also it says 50 on the handle of the breaker.
My range is above it with also two switches and 50 on it.The breaker on the range also messured 120 V but the range is working fine.I am not very familiar with electric,so please forgive me if this sounds strange.Thanks for all your Info,Anita

 

The two screws on the breaker? The only breakers that have two screws that you could possibly get 120 volts between are GFCI and AFCI breakers.

Or perhaps you meant one screw on the breaker and one screw on a grounding bar?

Or perhaps you didn't mean a breaker at all, but perhaps a switch?

Or perhaps you didn't really mean 120 volts as measured by a meter with a quantitative readout, but you merely got a light on a tester to light up?

I don't see how your range can fit in your breaker box?

I assume that you have "something" that is not working, but what is that something?

I'm confused. Please help me out. I understand that we are not yet speaking the same language, but we can get there.

 

Sorry about the confusion,LOL.
Ok here is the situation,my AC went out three days ago,troubleshot it and came to the conclusion it isn't the AC or the fuses,but something in the breaker box.
My home is 35 years old,the writing on the breaker box lid says GTE Sylvana CAT,use only type Q,Q24 (CAT.No.2420),RC 38,R 38 and HRGF Max.
When I tested the breaker (not the switch) there where two screws,and it read 120 V.My range breaker switch is right below my AC breaker switch,I also tested that and it read also 120 V.So why is the range working,but not the AC ? Also the switches on the breakers have 50 on it.Does all this make more sense now,LOL ? Thank you,Anita

 

I believe that the breaker is not bad. But I am still plenty confused. Here's why:

• A 240-volt breaker has two screws. You should read 240 volts between those two screws.Ranges always use 240-volt breakers. Air conditioners often do. A 50-amp breaker is almost always a 240-volt breaker. Although you can get 120 volts from either screw to ground or neutral, you should never get 120 volts between the two screws on the breaker itself.
• A 120-volt breaker only has one screw, so you can't be talking about a 120-volt breaker.
• A twin (aka tandem, skinny) 120-volt breaker has two screws, but you should read zero volts between them.
• AFCI and GFCI breakers have a neutral screw in addtion to the hot screw, and you can read 120-volts when you measure between this screw and the hot screw. However, ranges and A/C are not wired with such breakers.

As far as I know, that is all the possibilities, and your observations agree with none of them. So I must misunderstand what you are saying, because I don't know how you got such readings whether the breakers are good or bad.

 

Could you describe what "trouble-shooting" you performed that lead you to conclude you have a defective breaker? Did you test for 220 volts at the compressor dis-connect switch terminals?

 

You have some strange readings but I am going to guess that one leg of your service is out. Turn off and on you main breaker. If that doesn't fix it, call the power company and have them check the lines and meter base.
You could help use out by taking a reading from each screw of the breaker to the ground buss in the panel.