Appliances shut doen NO breakers tripped

House and area are old.Wood frame 20+ years old.
All appliances (fridge, stove, dishwasher, 2 window ac units all within 3 years new)
Ac units wont stay on at all. LIghts dim big when compressor for fridge kicks on.
Ok here are my thoughts:
1)Electric company doesnt want to replace old transformer.
2) House is setup for 100amps.this has always worked fine but now for some reason not
3) Brownouts
4) I need to spend $1000 ( this is what electrician said) to "upgrade" to more amperage for home but CANNOT assure this will fix problem.
any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
thanks

 

Negotiate more with your power company. If you tell them that you are going to upgrade the panel, they should be willing to upgrade their transformer and/or wiring. After all, it's a chance to sell you more power. Make it clear to them that you would like to increase your consumption but cannot without their help. They may not be able to do it right away, but see if you can get it put on the list.

Your electrician is right. Upgrading the panel, by itself, may not solve the problem.

 

thanks. The electric co has no problem doing the upgrade.
My concern was not only spending money that might not solve the problem but just the problem itself what with no fuses blowing but the appliances not working.

 

You say your appliances stop working but it is not because of a blown fuse or a power outtage (the rest of the power to the house stays on and the appliances go off) if this is true i suspect another problem

 

A possible reason for this problem is a defective connection in the conductors between the utility connection where the utility aerial-drop cable connects to the house, and the main-lug connections inside the Service panel.

If you have use of an accurate AC voltmeter, place a "load" on the system and check the voltages across the circuit-breaker terminals in the Service panel. Check across the terminals of the CB's that protect the 15 amp circuits.3 voltage readings are needed.

One check is across the terminals of 2 breakers that could be either set "side-by-side" in the panel, or set opposite each other.The reading should be 220 volts (approx). The next 2 voltage-readings are between the Neutral terminal strip where the White wires connect ,and each of the previous 2 breakers where you checked for 220 volts. Both readings should be equal, 110 volts (approx).

Satifactory voltage readings must be recorded at the breaker terminals because this is the point where the interior circuits are connected. This must be a "dynamic" test with a large current-load on the connections. If there is a defective connection with a resistance of 3 Ohms, the voltage-drop across the defective connection with 1 amp load is 3 Ohms X 1 amp = 3 volts. With a 20 amp current load the VD is 3 Ohms X 20 amps = 60 volts.

 

thanks

 

not sure about where you are but out here in california if you call up and say that you have low voltage, the utility has to investigate the problem. If it is outside 120 volts +- 5% at your panel then they take corrective action. All at no cost to you.
Motors don't like operating at low voltage. You could also use a multimeter to take a voltage reading at a down line (from frig or AC unit) receptical when they are running. I suspect that you have a voltage problem. A new panel will probably help you out but only if you split the loading on the circuit with your appliances.

 

thanks still working on this problem in texas make that hot Texas