Bathroom wiring

I previously asked a question concerning bathroom wiring but I believe I didn't supply all the info needed. so i'm going to ask again.

I need to but in a GFI recp. in and a new switch for the light. The oct box that holds the light has 4 sets of wires going into. one set of wires has the black wire going to the light and the white wire wired with the rest of the black wires in the box. I have access to the two set of wires coming into the top of the box.

I need to put the GfI were the old switch was. and run another wire to the new box were I'm planning on locating the switch for the light. is this possible? What are my options.

How many wires can I put into the Octagon box ?

One final question, do they sell a low profile remodelers box for a switch. i have approx 2 3/8 depth?

Thanks

PS I hope this wasn't to confusing!!!

 

This sounds like a switch loop. You can confirm by looking at the switch itself. It probably has one black wire and one white wire connected to it.

Anything can be done with enough wire. And there are almost always multiple ways of doing the same thing.

Run a new cable from the octagonal box to where you want the new switch. Confirm that you can do this, and we can provide instructions for converting the old switch to a receptacle and wiring the new switch.

How many wires you can put into the octagonal box depends on several factors that you need to supply us: (1) How many cubic inches is the box (it should be stamped on the box)? and (2) What gauge is the wire (probably 12 or 14)? (3) Is the box plastic, or metal, and if metal, does it have internal cable clamps? (4) Are there grounding wires in the box?

Yes, you can buy shallow boxes.

 

Thanks

1. I have access to the box and was planning on changing it (it's very loose as it sits). What type of box and what size should I use?

2. The wire size is 14-2 with a ground.

Thanks I'll be waiting for your reply

 

What is the present condition of the walls and ceiling?-Have you removed, or partialy removed the "finish",i.e., sheetrock/plaster?---The depth of a "1900" 4" sq. box is 1-1/2". A "rough-cover" is set on the box for either one or two devices. If you set a 1/2" RC on the box the over-all depth is 2"-if the RC is 3/4" the over-all depth is 2-1/4". If you plan on setting a GFI receptacle in this box, make the box + RC dimension as deep as possible.

If there is only a 2-wire cable between the fixture ( wall or ceiling?) box and the existing switch-box and this is the only cable in the switch-box, then you'll need to re-place this 2-wire cable with a 3-wire cable, presuming you need a receptacle "feed" in the switch-box.

 

So you have four 14/2 cables, plus the light fixture, at the ceiling. Since you neither confirmed nor refuted my guess about the switch loop, I am going to assume that it is. I urge you to do the verification that I suggested in my last post before proceeding.

Once you add the new cable to the switch, you will have five 14/2 cables plus the light at the ceiling. Any 26 cubic inch box will hold them.

Let me now identify these five cables for reference:

• Call the cable to the new light switch S.
• Call the other four cables W, X, Y and Z.
• Call the wires from the light L.
• Use b for black and w for white.

Make the following connections at the ceiling.[list=1][*]Connect Wb, Xb, Yb, Zb and Sw with a wire nut. Remark Sw with black marker.[*]Connect Sb to Lb with a wire nut.[*]Connect Ww, Xw, Yw, Zw and Lw with a wire nut.[*]Connect all grounding wires.[/list=1]At the switch, connect the bare to the green grounding screw, and black and remarked white to the other screws.

At the GFCI receptacle (which was where the switch was), connect black to "line hot" and white to "line white" and bare to green.

Just one more note: Current code requires that the bathroom receptacle be on a 20-amp circuit. Furthermore, it requires it to be on a circuit that doesn't serve anything outside of a bathroom. I think you meet neither of these rules. If you plan to use a hairdryer on that outlet, I think you are going to be disappointed. I suggest you consider a separate 20-amp circuit for that receptacle so you don't blow the breaker all the time.

 

John

I apologize for not confirming the switch loop. You are right it is a switch loop. I appreciate all your help and I'm going to tackle the job tomorrow. I will post back and let you know how it turns out. your instructions are concise and easy to follow. Thanks again

 

Thanks for all your help. The job went without a hitch. The instructions were very easy to understand .

Thanks again