220 volt outlet problems
#1
10-03-03, 09:05 PM
220 volt outlet problems
Hi
I have a problem with my dryer- the drum spins but the element doesn't heat. I spoke to a technician who said I don't have 220v going into the dryer. I tested the outlet and have 110 on each side of the outlet- but when I measure across the outlet I get a zero reading. I'm confused.. shouldnt the reading across give the 220 volts? What could be causing the problem and what should I replace to fix the problem.
Thanks, Nic
I have a problem with my dryer- the drum spins but the element doesn't heat. I spoke to a technician who said I don't have 220v going into the dryer. I tested the outlet and have 110 on each side of the outlet- but when I measure across the outlet I get a zero reading. I'm confused.. shouldnt the reading across give the 220 volts? What could be causing the problem and what should I replace to fix the problem.
Thanks, Nic
#3
10-03-03, 10:18 PM
Actually, if your reading 120V to ground from each leg, then the ground is in tact.
Is this a new recept? Has the dryer ever worked on it?
If this is a new recept. then it is likely that you have both hot wires connected to the same leg of the service.
Is this a new recept? Has the dryer ever worked on it?
If this is a new recept. then it is likely that you have both hot wires connected to the same leg of the service.
#6
10-04-03, 04:59 AM
when I measure the terminals I have 120v on each terminal but nothing between the terminals. There are 3 wires running from 2 breakers. White, red and black- white in middle, red on right and black left. I haven't opened the breaker box to have a look in there yet.
If I get 120 on each terminal and nothing between them, is that the breaker switch that is the problem?
If I get 120 on each terminal and nothing between them, is that the breaker switch that is the problem?
#9
10-04-03, 07:07 AM
If this is an electric-dryer and the "outlet" is a 30-amp dryer receptacle, then there should be a Black wire and a Red wire connected to the receptacle terminals.
When checking for voltage, which is 220 volts, check ONLY across the R&B wire-terminals.If you read Zero volts across the R&B wires at the receptacle, then remove th cover from the C-B panel and check across the C-B terminals. Look for a 2-pole 30-amp C-B.
Good Luck & Enjoy the Experience!!!!!!!!
When checking for voltage, which is 220 volts, check ONLY across the R&B wire-terminals.If you read Zero volts across the R&B wires at the receptacle, then remove th cover from the C-B panel and check across the C-B terminals. Look for a 2-pole 30-amp C-B.
Good Luck & Enjoy the Experience!!!!!!!!
#10
10-04-03, 08:11 AM
Member
If this ever worked in the past, it is almost impossible for this to go wrong unless somebody changed something. If somebody did change something, it would be much easier to diagnose the problem if we knew what was changed. It would also be very helpful to know whether or not this ever worked in the past. If not, has this circuit been recently installed, or have you recently moved into this house?
Are you withholding pertinent information? Please give us the bigger picture.
Are you withholding pertinent information? Please give us the bigger picture.
#11
10-04-03, 09:00 AM
We recently moved into the house, the receptical was changed- it didn't have the L shaped earth terminal. This was changed by a builder who said he knew what he was doing!
I will check the C-B later and let you know the outcome. My electrical skills are a little on the poor side. When checking the C-B how should it be wired. I assume there should be one red and one black going from the CB to the receptical, how do the 2 c-b's connect together?
Thanks for all your help,
I will check the C-B later and let you know the outcome. My electrical skills are a little on the poor side. When checking the C-B how should it be wired. I assume there should be one red and one black going from the CB to the receptical, how do the 2 c-b's connect together?
Thanks for all your help,
#13
10-04-03, 09:13 AM
Member
I have two conflicting thoughts;[list=1][*]Call the "builder" back and tell him he screwed it up and needs to make it right.[*]On this other hand, I'm not sure I'd let the guy who made this mistake back into my house. This is definitely not a mistake that somebody who "knew what he was doing" would make.[/list=1]If the breaker is not a double-pole 30-amp breaker, occupying two full-sized slots, one above the other in the panel, with linked handles, then you must replace the breaker with one that matches this description.
#14
10-04-03, 10:00 AM
Also if this is a Fereral panel the breaker needs to straddle the little plastic divider or it puts them on the same leg. I ran across one a while backi where the owner did this.
#15
10-04-03, 10:59 AM
Thanks guys
Just opened the circuit box and the c-b where the dryer is supposed to be has nothing connected to it. The expert will have to return to tell me where he has connected my dryer.
I will let you know the outcome!
Thanks again for all your help
Regards, Nic
Just opened the circuit box and the c-b where the dryer is supposed to be has nothing connected to it. The expert will have to return to tell me where he has connected my dryer.
I will let you know the outcome!
Thanks again for all your help
Regards, Nic
#16
10-04-03, 01:26 PM
If you are reading 120 volts Red wire-to-Ground at the receptacle, then switch "Off" the breakers on which a Red wire terminates, one-at-a-time, until the Red wire at the receptacle indicates a "breaker-Off." voltage-reading . Look for a "thick" Red wire at the breaker-terminals. When you locate the Red wire that is connected to the breaker that opened the circuit to the receptacle, then trace it to where it "splits" from the Black and White cable-wires so you can locate the Black cable-wire to determine where it's connected.
Good Luck & Enjoy the Experience!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Good Luck & Enjoy the Experience!!!!!!!!!!!!!
