wiring 4 wire recepticle for 110 RV application
#1
wiring 4 wire recepticle for 110 RV application
Want to add an outdoor box to hook up my RV to electric i bought a outdoor recepticle with a 50 amp 4 wire to match my RV plug-- i'm
confused as to where I get the 4th wire from-want to hook it to seperate 30 amp breaker which has 3 wires -ground -neutral- and power my recepticle has 4 wires -ground- neutral and 2 power wires- do i take 2 wires from the power of the breaker to each side of the recepticle????? thanx for any help
confused as to where I get the 4th wire from-want to hook it to seperate 30 amp breaker which has 3 wires -ground -neutral- and power my recepticle has 4 wires -ground- neutral and 2 power wires- do i take 2 wires from the power of the breaker to each side of the recepticle????? thanx for any help
#2
You're not allowed to connect a 50-amp receptacle to a 30-amp breaker.
You need a 50-amp double-pole 240-volt breaker. The double-pole breaker will provide you with two screw to connect the two hot wires to. Then you need to run a 6/3 cable from the breaker to the receptacle. The 6/3 will provide the four wires you need to connect to the four screws on the receptacle.
Sounds like you're trying to convert an old dryer receptacle. You can't do that.
You need a 50-amp double-pole 240-volt breaker. The double-pole breaker will provide you with two screw to connect the two hot wires to. Then you need to run a 6/3 cable from the breaker to the receptacle. The 6/3 will provide the four wires you need to connect to the four screws on the receptacle.
Sounds like you're trying to convert an old dryer receptacle. You can't do that.
#3
What amperage is the RV sopposed to have available to it?
I interpret your situation to be that you have an RV with a 50A 4-wire inlet on the side of it, an extension cord of the same type, and this new receptacle is going to go on the house, or some other location drawing power from the main breaker panel.
Please verify this information, andd add detail.
(It is important to provide detail, and your initial description is to vague as to what you have and what you wnat to accomplish, no offence intended)
My initial responce to scenario IF the RV is intended for power to be provided in the format of a 50A 4-wire connection (NEMA 14-50 or equivalent locking configuration) is that you need 6-3 w/ground, or equivalent in conduit, sealtight, or UF cable to go from a 50A 2-pole breaker in the panel to the new receptacle in a weatherproof enclosure outdoors.
Q: Why are you trying to connect to 120V, not a 120/240 source?
A NEMA 14-50 plug implies a 50 amp 120/240V connection.
Feel free to ask as amny questions as you like, if you need something explained, etc.
gj
I interpret your situation to be that you have an RV with a 50A 4-wire inlet on the side of it, an extension cord of the same type, and this new receptacle is going to go on the house, or some other location drawing power from the main breaker panel.
Please verify this information, andd add detail.
(It is important to provide detail, and your initial description is to vague as to what you have and what you wnat to accomplish, no offence intended)
My initial responce to scenario IF the RV is intended for power to be provided in the format of a 50A 4-wire connection (NEMA 14-50 or equivalent locking configuration) is that you need 6-3 w/ground, or equivalent in conduit, sealtight, or UF cable to go from a 50A 2-pole breaker in the panel to the new receptacle in a weatherproof enclosure outdoors.
Q: Why are you trying to connect to 120V, not a 120/240 source?
A NEMA 14-50 plug implies a 50 amp 120/240V connection.
Feel free to ask as amny questions as you like, if you need something explained, etc.
gj
#4
I'm kind of surprised that you don't have a power adaptor for your RV. Most come with a plug adaptor that will allow you to plug into 20A 120V circuits (as most campgrounds don't have provisions for 50A 240V.) Running on 20A 120V is fine, unless you plan on cranking up the AC or running all of the cooking appliances via electric power.
Use the adaptor for lighting and such, let the appliances run off of the bottle gas (it's really no more expensive than the elcectricity you use.)
Use the adaptor for lighting and such, let the appliances run off of the bottle gas (it's really no more expensive than the elcectricity you use.)
#5
I'm confused. I must admit that I didn't notice the fact that you mentioned "110" in your subject line. But if it's 110, I don't know why you have a four-wire plug. Something doesn't add up here.
#6
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Only half the appliances or circuitws would work with some kind of adapter. They do make one for the 30A 120 circuits that work fine if you are not running the AC. They usually have a panel on these 120 ones with a jumper to the other leg to fire both sides of the panel so you can split the circuits up when using the full 30A. I think his needs 240V. If you ever wanna see some more cobbles (like you probably havnt seen enough already) look at some of those carny wagons, the food vendors. Many of them had the "uncle that is an electrician" do some "creative" wiring so they can run from different voltages. Really scary.
#7
110 4 wire
I don't understand why the RV industry uses a 4wire plug myself if i use a 110 adapter so i can use a common 110 3 wire outlet everthing in the RV will work- i have it hooked up to a 110 extension cord now- just looking to put an outside waterproof outlet with the same configuration as the plug- most rv parks of recent vintage have both so you may run 2 a/c if you have them
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You need to see how the service panel in the unit is wired, never had one with 240 supply. They could have the general circuits on one side and the AC's on the other.