In ground pool light


  #1  
Old 10-14-03, 05:33 AM
Matth
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In ground pool light

I posted on the pool forum, but I thought I'd also try here.

I am installing a Hayward Astrolite in a wood walled pool (solid, good condition - no existing light).

The pool house is about 5 feet away from the shallow end. The deck is concrete, but between the coping and the concrete are 18 inch square pavers. The pool is backfilled with an extremely sandy soil mix. The light will obviously be installed in the deep end about 40 feet away from the pool house.

I bought a light with a 75 foot cord assuming I could run the cord with a #8 ground/bond wire in conduit up about a foot from the plastic light niche then buried about 8 - 10 inches under the pavers next to the pool all the way to the pool house. Then up about 3 feet to a switch, then up and over to a gfci breaker in the sub panel.

However I keep reading about using a junction box. Can I make the run in the conduit the length of the pool to the pool house and then use the junction box? Otherwise, I will have to run conduit under the existing concrete near the deep end of the pool up to the jbox and then back under the concrete and then to the pool house.

Any thoughts or help would be greatly appreciated.

P.S. Why isn't there some type of water proof fitting that the rubber electrical cord from the light goes through when it exits the light niche? Thanks - Matt
 
  #2  
Old 10-14-03, 03:03 PM
curtis_strain
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I believe the jbox is code for new pool installations. Mine has an gfi outlet as part of it as well for safety.

Installing a light in an existing pool sounds pretty darn tough to impossible. A good resource would be a book called The Ultimate Pool Maintenance Manual by Terry Tamminen. There is a whole section on electrics and lights, and this might give you some insight on what can be done.

btw, I've never heard of a wood surfaced pool before. what part of the country are you in?
 
  #3  
Old 10-14-03, 05:43 PM
Matth
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In the east.....

Hey Curtis,

Thanks for the reply. I live on Long Island. The pool is old......the wood walls have been rebuilt once before. It's like an impregnated masonite - still very solid, I think that has to do with the excellent drainage of the sandy soil/backfill.

Anyway, I'm changing the liner so the pool will already have to be emptied. I figured while it is empty I will update the skimmer and add the light. Like I said, the concrete doesn't go up to the coping - the perimeter around the coping is easily accessible as there are only 18 - 20 inch square pavers between the coping and the concrete.

I don't mind installing the box if I have to, I just figured since I could buy a light with different length cord, I would just be able to run the cord and ground/bond wire in the conduit right to the pool house. Seems to me a direct run into a protected structure would be better than having a break outside, exposed to the elements. Someone did mention the conduit filling with water when I have to change the light though, and having the jbox closer to the pool would eliminate the entire length of conduit filling with water. I don't know. I think I'll take a look for the book you mention.

Thanks again.

Matt
 
  #4  
Old 10-15-03, 05:50 AM
cem-bsee
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one problem will be the ac losses of the long cord= nuisance tripping of GFCI breaker. run circuit in pvc to gfci in box, say 6ft away from pool with #6 solid copper grounding wire. support box very well!!!

BTW, the original work on GFCI was with pigs since their skin is simular to ours -- an infant beside a 6v pool light could be electrocuted!

So, be sure light has an excellent heavy marine brass guard which is well connected to the grounding wire!! use the best bolts available.

Consider a brazed connection of polymer coated #6 to light housing/ nich.

Good mechanical connections are also good electrical connections. Solid wire has the least surface area= good resistance against corrosion. The covering/ coating, which looks like insulation, on a grounding wire, probably will not have a voltage rating, so it is not classified as an insulation -- not to worry, since such covering is for mechanical protection.
 
 

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