375' Wiring Project

I don't know if this is the right forum for the following question but here it goes.

I am in the process of running power from my house to a covered shed with coverd boatslip to operate a 3/4 HP boat hoist motor, a few lights, and 1-2 outlets.

The total distance is about 375 feet. The electric hoist motor draws 11.6 amps at start and 5.8 amps while running. It is rated 115-230 volt.

I have contacted a few guys at my local Home Depot and Lowes and have gotten wildly different information and advice from each one.

I am wondering the following:

1. Should I run direct burial UF wire down there or run other cable in conduit.

2. What size wire gauge do I need taking into consideration the voltage drop over the 375' distance? (I've been told anywhere from a 2 to a 10 gauge wire). What is the difference between say a 4-2 and a 4-3 wire?

3. Do I need a subpanel down at the boathouse?


I appreciate any input anyone may have.

Thank you,

Richard

 

First of all, 375 feet is a long ways. Long enough to worry about significant voltage drop. Long enough to require larger wire than normal.

3. I'll address your last question first. The answer is that no, you probably do not need a subpanel if what you have listed is all you will ever need in your entire life, and if those 1-2 outlets won't have anything substantial plugged into them. However, if you are willing and able to plan for future growth, you might want to consider the subpanel. Be aware that a subpanel will significantly increase the cost and effort.

1. In most areas, UF direct-burial cable would be fine. However, depending on whether or not you go with the subpanel, code might require you to bury this deeper than would be required if in conduit.

2. Deferring the gauge question for the minute, let's look at the difference between x/2 and x/3 wire. If you decide on a subpanel, you will need x/3. Even if you don't want the subpanel, you may want a multiwire circuit which would also require x/3. If your power needs are forever modest, and if you need to pinch pennies, you could go with x/2.

There are special codes that apply to boathouses. These codes depend on such things as the type of foundation and the distance from the water. Because I am not familiar with those, I'll let somebody else cover that aspect.

 

If I was doing it I would run number 2 alum quadraplex, wire the boat lift for 240 and use 6 space panel, 1 circuit for lights and one for recepts so you could gfci it.

 

ok let get this clear little more here please what voltage is your motor is running now ????

the nameplate will say 11.6 amps at 115 volts and 5.8 amp at 230 volts .
the starting current on motors can go up 6X of running current for few seconds then drop to running current or less depending load on motor

ok on my calucalator say :
for 115 volts at 11.6 amps at 375 feet length at 2.0% voltage drop will required #4 cu now now hold your pants for a sec.

for 230 volts same as above :

it say 10 gauge copper it is big differnce

so i add few other items in your list and came out pretty close to #3 wire but you can run multiwire curict or put a sub feed box to advoid serious voltage drop ( most electric motor dont like big voltage drop at all)

you can use the UF wire they do make it in larger size too but check it ahead of cost first and few other options

merci, marc


ps boathouse have specal codes i can't say until i get idea what is your strucure is

 

Reason I like that no 2 is its cheap and can get it easily in one piece the right length. We use it for subfeeds all the time and usually with a 60 breaker. Heck with the number 2 you could even still run the boat motor on 120V probably and recepts and lights on the other leg. I think at that distance it would be good for over 15A and still be within 2% drop.

 

sberry: yeah i know #2 alum wire is good choice but the catch is some d.i.y. are not comftable with alum wires at all. i done alot with alum wires they are not too bad on larger size but have to do it properly.

my old country home i have before my boat house is good 200 feet away from the house and i use # 2 COPPER wire 4 wire seup with subfeed with gfci there ( both 120 gfci and 240 volts gfci too) and my boat wrench motor is wired for 240 volts because it is 1 1/2 hp it do draw a bit a juice. i could leave on 120v but it do keep kicking out sectury light before after that i rewire it and change motor to 240 volts and the lights did not flicker at all.

so if Richard 5 reading this now. if he want to go with subfeed box route then i really suggest that the motor reconfied to 230 v it is alot eaiser to start especally in very long distance there

merci , marc