Problem installing outdoor flood lights
#1
10-25-03, 11:52 AM
Problem installing outdoor flood lights
I am trying to replace an existing outdoor light with a motion detector flood light. The problem I have is that the old light has a smaller round mounting base than the flood lights.
The current configuration is a square junction box with some type of round adapter deal sticking out of it and then a siding cover that snaps on over that. I have included pictures here.
What I would like to do is mount the lights through the siding cover and into the wood covering the box. I would still use the seal gasket between the light base and the siding cover. The light would not be directly connected to the box in anyway except for the ground wire.
Am I asking for trouble this way or does this sound ok?
I would like to be able to install the light without ripping out the old box which I think would be a lot more difficult than just putting in a new box since there is a big square section cut out of the siding.
The current configuration is a square junction box with some type of round adapter deal sticking out of it and then a siding cover that snaps on over that. I have included pictures here.
What I would like to do is mount the lights through the siding cover and into the wood covering the box. I would still use the seal gasket between the light base and the siding cover. The light would not be directly connected to the box in anyway except for the ground wire.
Am I asking for trouble this way or does this sound ok?
I would like to be able to install the light without ripping out the old box which I think would be a lot more difficult than just putting in a new box since there is a big square section cut out of the siding.
#2
10-25-03, 12:34 PM
Why would you want to mount to the wood?
From the pictures, what you have is a 4" square electrical box with a "square to round" plaster ring on it. Thie is a relatively common installation. The round ring has it's mounting holes on 3' centers. Being your light doesn't bolt right on, I presume it is on 3.5" centers to accomodate an octogon box. I would suggest picking up a universal adaptor bracket (or "spider plate") at your local hardware store (assuming one wasn't included with the light, which is often the case). Mount the adaptor to the box, then mount the fixture to the adaptor.
From the pictures, what you have is a 4" square electrical box with a "square to round" plaster ring on it. Thie is a relatively common installation. The round ring has it's mounting holes on 3' centers. Being your light doesn't bolt right on, I presume it is on 3.5" centers to accomodate an octogon box. I would suggest picking up a universal adaptor bracket (or "spider plate") at your local hardware store (assuming one wasn't included with the light, which is often the case). Mount the adaptor to the box, then mount the fixture to the adaptor.
#3
10-25-03, 12:50 PM
CSelectric , do you have a link to the product you described? I have actually been looking for something like that.
My other concern however is being able to cut through the wood around the box without damaging it so I can take out the "square to round" ring and put the other adapter on.
Also, for sake of argument, would the method I described to attach the light work? I know it's not the prefered method, but if it came down to that or nothing would it be ok?
Thanks
My other concern however is being able to cut through the wood around the box without damaging it so I can take out the "square to round" ring and put the other adapter on.
Also, for sake of argument, would the method I described to attach the light work? I know it's not the prefered method, but if it came down to that or nothing would it be ok?
Thanks
#4
10-25-03, 03:30 PM
I'll have to see if i can dig up a link. It's a commodity item, should be relatively available at an supply house or hardware store. Ask for a "fixture mounting bracket" or "spider plate." Either way, they should know what you are talking about.
As for cutting the wall to remove the plaster ring, that is completely unnecessary. The bracket will mount directly to the existing round ring, the fixture will mount directly to the bracket.
As to your idea of mounting to the wood. I've seen it done, it's not proper and seldom works out well. Your fixture comes with mounting screws, likely with an 8-32 thread pattern. To successfully mount to the wood structure, you'd have to toss those and use a wood or drywall screw instead. Being the factory screws are generally a brass or painted head finish to match the fixture, you can see where replacing them with something else would make for a bad looking light fixture.
As for cutting the wall to remove the plaster ring, that is completely unnecessary. The bracket will mount directly to the existing round ring, the fixture will mount directly to the bracket.
As to your idea of mounting to the wood. I've seen it done, it's not proper and seldom works out well. Your fixture comes with mounting screws, likely with an 8-32 thread pattern. To successfully mount to the wood structure, you'd have to toss those and use a wood or drywall screw instead. Being the factory screws are generally a brass or painted head finish to match the fixture, you can see where replacing them with something else would make for a bad looking light fixture.
#6
10-25-03, 05:56 PM
I'm still looking for a link. Trouble with items this common is that it can be hard to find info (simple items such as this seldom get a picture or anything on catalog pages.)
Personally, I'm surprised that your light fixture didn't include one. It would be a metal bar, about four inches long and generally flat. It will have a large threaded hole in the center, a long, open channel on either side of that and either two or four threaded holes at each end. T^ake a look in the light packaging and see if it isn't there.
Personally, I'm surprised that your light fixture didn't include one. It would be a metal bar, about four inches long and generally flat. It will have a large threaded hole in the center, a long, open channel on either side of that and either two or four threaded holes at each end. T^ake a look in the light packaging and see if it isn't there.
#8
10-26-03, 12:51 PM
Thanks for the link Chefite.
That is one of the brackets that will work. They also make one that is a single flat bar not capable of the 90 degree movement that the picture shows. Another is a round flat plate with slots and threaded holes in it that looks just a bit like a spiders web.
That is one of the brackets that will work. They also make one that is a single flat bar not capable of the 90 degree movement that the picture shows. Another is a round flat plate with slots and threaded holes in it that looks just a bit like a spiders web.
#9
10-26-03, 04:13 PM
Ok. I guess I did see some of those but looked past them. I wonder if I will have problems installing the flood lights since there are wires coming from each socket. I'd think the bracket would get in the way.
I'll pick one up and see what I can do with it.
Thanks for the help.
I'll pick one up and see what I can do with it.
Thanks for the help.
