260 ' run of wire


  #1  
Old 11-01-03, 02:35 PM
stroker
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260 ' run of wire

i have a new shop.......it's about 245 ' from my main power box .....i have a double 30 amp breaker on this power box....i only need 110 to this shop.......about 4 lights & power tools are all i need power for........question is can i run 10/2 or 8/2 from power source at breaker & be ok with this set up.........do i need to rub it 220 & then break it to 110 in the shop itself......will the drop in volts be ok over this long a run.......thanks
 
  #2  
Old 11-01-03, 04:51 PM
J
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The general rule here is that if you want more than one circuit in the outbuilding, you must install a subpanel. Based on what you said, your needs are modest. It depends somewhat on whether the "power tools" are a drill and circular saw, or a drill press and table saw.

Unfortunately, 245 feet is a long ways to run residential voltages.

Here are your three main options:[list=1][*]Run a single 120-volt 20-amp circuit. Use a single-pole 20-amp breaker. Because of the distance, however, you should use two #6 copper wires and a ground. This will provide you with 2400 watts of power, enough for the circular saw and four fluorescent lights and a radio. At the shop, you'll need to splice 12-gauge wire to the 6-gauge in a junction box. To reduce the required burial depth, you will probably want to run this through a GFCI receptacle before leaving the house.[*]Run a single 20-amp multiwire circuit. Use a double-pole 20-amp breaker. This will need three insulated conductors plus that grounding wire. Because the load can be split between the two hots and will reduce voltage drop on the neutral, you can probably drop down to #8 wire (although I think I'd still recommend #6), and get twice the power to boot. This is probably good enough for the table saw and drill press plus lighting and a television. To reduce required burial depth, you may want to spring the bucks for a double-pole 20-amp 120/240 GFCI breaker in the main panel.[*]Run heavier wire, three insulated conductors and ground to a subpanel. You will need a subpanel and grounding rods, and greater burial depth, but this will give you more power and future flexibility.[/list=1]I think solution #2 is probably best for you unless you think your power requirements may grow in the future, in which case you should probably consider solution #3.
 
  #3  
Old 11-01-03, 06:13 PM
stroker
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thanks for the info......please break it down a little more for me.......can i use the double 30amp i allready have them?.......are you saying for the option # 2 i will be in the 220 ?........i do have a kinda large air compressor .......it pulls some power ......also when you speak of # 6 wire is that 10/6 wire.......i hate to play with stuff i cant see
 
  #4  
Old 11-01-03, 06:23 PM
J
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Don't plan your whole project around one breaker that you happen to already own. You can only use the double-pole 30-amp breaker if you choose option #3. However you can save some money if you start by throwning the breaker in the trash.

When I say 6-gauge copper wire, I'm talking about either direct-burial 6/3 UF cable or 6-gauge copper THWN in conduit. It's your choice.

I wasn't thinking that you would install any 220-volt outlets when describing option #2. Do you own any 220-volt tools? If not, I'm certainly not suggesting that you buy any.

If you select option #2, you will run those 6-gauge wires into a junction box in your shed and splice it to two 12/2 cables coming out of the junction box.
 
  #5  
Old 11-01-03, 06:26 PM
stroker
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ok thanks ....u da man..........i got it.....
 
  #6  
Old 11-01-03, 09:10 PM
S
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For my tastes its kind of a waste to go thru all that work to get 20A @ 120V. I like number 2 alum quad fed with a 50A to a 6 space main lug panel.
 
 

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