recessed lights/insulation

Hello folks,

I installed some recessed cans and my question is ...and this may be a dummy one here but I need some assurance. Can fill over the cans with cellulose insulation? The cans are halo's H27ICT designed to come in direct contact with insulation however... rules are not to blow over light fixtures with cellulose. Don't want to loose my heat and shes a cold one today!

Thanks
Tom

 

To what "rules" are you referring?

 

John.....the rules, methods what have you I was refering to was blowing the insulation in. Your supposed to build little frames around the fixtures to prevent insulation contact........however and this is where I think the rule doesn't apply.....the cans I purchased are rated for direct contact.

 

Where did you read this rule?

 

John, The instructions, rules, methods... I think sharvel is referring to are on the celulose bags and I've read similar instructions on the web (search celulose installation)

sharvel, I put batt fiberglass over some of my IC can lights, but tried to avoid getting celulose directly on any of them (class A fire rating my foot - celulose is paper...). But, it really doesn't matter whether there was fire potential or not, I found that the lights covered with fiberglass tended to overheat and shut off periodically so I cleared all insulation from the tops of the cans. In your case, I might suggest that you place some batt fiberglass around the cans and avoid blowing the celulose on top of them. No need to build a box.

Wear a good mask. Celulose is dusty!

Doug M.

 

Doug and Sharvel,

You need to make sure that you are not using bulbs with higer wattage than the can is rated for. With IC cans, you are normally limited to 75 watts.

 

John,

All bulbs are/were 75W as per rating on can and still some fixtures overheated from time to time - just often enough to be annoying. The fixtures are in a hot attic, which may explain it. I had non-IC cans originally and switched to IC. Even with bare tops the IC cans are much better than the non-IC - no drafts and the kitchen is much warmer.

Another option is to use compact fluorescent bulbs which don't put off nearly as much heat. I've switched almost all of mine, but still left the tops of the cans bare so the next owner won't ever have a problem.

Doug M.

 

In my experience, you must also be sure the BR bulbs for recessed lights. They direct light, and also heat down away from the can. I have found that to aleviate the overheating problem in many lights.

 

Thanks for the input Dougm!........I've heard cellulose is less flamable than fiberglass...hmmmmmmm. I got the go ahead from a electrician to fill over the cans. I filled over the cans already since it was already blown in up there and it was a matter of tossing some extra out of a bag. I'm pretty skeptical about it but losing my heat was a critical issue today. You'd think halo would provide some info with the installation instructions! Worse yet they passed the buck when I called them direct and referred me to one of their dealers....who also passed the buck and so on and so on. I'll keep my eye on them .....I'll most likely clear the cellulose and do the batts and leave the tops clear......thanks again Dougm.

 

Doug, I now notice that you are in Texas. I didn't take that into account. I am not aware of problems in cooler climates when the correct wattage bulbs are used.

 

Funny story: When I blew cellulose into the upper attic where the furnaces and water heater are, I had no idea how dusty it was going to get - never even thought about it. The whole attic was like a big grey cloud... About half way through I heard the inducer fan on the main furnace kick on and it struck me that I was probably about to die in a huge explosion. All my son, who was running the blower, saw was the bottom of my feet as I flew out the stairway. Needless to say there was no explosion so cellulose must be somewhat fire resistant, but I still don't trust it. I was a fireman for many years and, in my experience, there are only 2 things that don't burn in a house fire: Fiber glass and the metal wire used in flex duct (firemen have died from getting tangled in this stuff - standard gear in bunker pants pocket is now a pair of wire cutters).

Any attic with open framing is a fast burning environment. I don't believe insulation increases risk much no matter what it's made of as long as it doesn't burn readily. Just don't store heavy furnature (like a safe... been there...) on the rafters.

Doug M.

 

I'll add my 2 cents. Cellose is made nonflammable by adding the chemical borax to the shredded paper. Alls fine unless you have lots of humidity getting into it in the winter and condensing into water thus washing away the fire retardent. after many years under these "ideal" conditions you could have a fire hazard. I'd keep the paper away from the firtures and cover them instead with non-flammable fiberglass. Don't forget to pull off the paper vaperbarrier.