Stranded vs. Solid Wire


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Old 01-07-04, 04:14 PM
hotarc
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Stranded vs. Solid Wire

When running 12 AWG THHN wires through 1/2 conduit, would it be better to use stranded wire instead of solid? The wires will not terminate directly on any devices, they just make up the runs from the panel to various junction boxes where the wiring method then changes to NM. What are the pros and cons of the two different types?
 
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Old 01-07-04, 04:38 PM
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Stranded is MUCH easier to pull in but does not terminate on devices as easy as solid. Solid can be made to look much nicer in a panel and is less unruly.

For your task I'd say stranded.
 
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Old 01-07-04, 04:45 PM
HVACELECT
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stranded is way easier to work with
question is the nm stranded or solid?
 
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Old 01-07-04, 04:52 PM
hotarc
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The NM is solid. I didn't realize they made stranded NM.
 
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Old 01-07-04, 05:03 PM
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I've never seen it.
 
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Old 01-07-04, 05:50 PM
resqcapt19
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For small commerical and residential work, I prefer soild. One man can install soild as in most cases you can push it between boxes, where stranded will require two people because it must be pulled. Also in my opinion it is harder to get a good splice between solid and stranded than it is when both conductors are solid.
Don
 
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Old 01-07-04, 06:16 PM
hotarc
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How hard is it to make turns in the conduit runs with solid? Is it easier just to try to push it thru, or should I feed a fishtape thru first then pull it in? Also, is the wire lube stuff necessary and does it make things much easier? Just to make things clear, I am going to be pulling at most (6) #12 THHN wires thru 1/2 EMT conduit. Thanks.
 
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Old 01-08-04, 07:41 AM
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How many bends are in your run of 1/2" conduit? How long is the run? You shouldn't need wirelube unless you have more than the allowable 360 degrees worth of bends.

If you are installing the conductors by yourself and you have more than a straight (or one bend), fairly short run, then you can try and tape the (solid) wires together and push them through.

If you're run is longer and / or has several bends, then use a fish tape. Even if you're working by yourself, it is much easier to push wire through a conduit when it is attached to a fish tape.
 
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Old 01-08-04, 07:58 AM
hotarc
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The run is probably 30-40 feet with two 90 deg. bends. Actually, the major portion of the run is about 25-30 feet, then it enters a junction box where the next run turns 90 deg. and goes for about 10 more feet. Then there is another 90 deg. bend and 3 more feet of conduit where it then enters the final junction box.
 
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Old 01-08-04, 08:27 AM
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One of your 90 degree "bends" is made in a junction box (pulling point) which doesn't count. You should have no problem pushing the solid wire through the 25-30 run. Push enough to cover the remaining 10 foot run. Then, from the junction box, push the remaining 10 foot run. You won't have any problem pushing 10 feet through one properly bent 90. You will "feel" when you reach the 90, but won't have any trouble pushing on through.
 
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Old 01-08-04, 04:40 PM
hotarc
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Okay, thanks. I notice you say to "push" the wires thru. There are existing, somewhat deteriorated wires in this conduit that I am replacing. Would it be easier to connect the new wires to the old then pull them thru?
 
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Old 01-09-04, 06:49 AM
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You can do it either way. If you are working by yourself, it is probably easier to remove the old conductors and push in the new. If someone can help you, it would be easier to leave one of the old conductors in and use it as a pull wire while pulling the others in. The conductors will need to be fed (not pushed) in while they are pulled from the other direction.
 
 

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