Installing a ceiling fan and need help in wiring it!

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  #1  
Old 02-12-04, 10:37 AM
madhuri_69
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insstalling a ceiling fan and need help in wiring it!

I doing it for the first time and willing to learn!

I want to install ceiling fans in all the bedrooms(there is access thru the attic). Here is the situation. As you enter a bedroom, there is a swich which controls the outlet. Can I use this switch's wiring(14/2) to add another swich next to it and power the fan, possibly install the dimmer & fan speed control switch.

How do i do all this wiring?


Please help.

Thank you.
 

Last edited by madhuri_69; 02-12-04 at 10:55 AM.
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  #2  
Old 02-12-04, 10:45 AM
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That depends, is there 2 14/2 wires into the switch or just one.

There are 2 common ways to wire up a switch plug, one is where the power comes into the switch on a 14/2 and then goes on to the plug with either a 14/2 or a 14/3 (one wire always on so that the plug is only half swiched)

The other way the power comes to the plug first and then goes on to the swich on one wire of the 14/2 and then back to the plug on the other wire.
If you have this second scenario there will be no neutral at the switch and you cant use it for the fan.

If you have just the one wire the white and the black should be hooked up to both posts of the switch. If there are 2 wires the whites should be connected and the 2 blacks on the switch
 
  #3  
Old 02-12-04, 10:57 AM
madhuri_69
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Question Re: insstalling a ceiling fan and need help in wiring it!

Originally posted by madhuri_69
I doing it for the first time and willing to learn!

I want to install ceiling fans in all the bedrooms(there is access thru the attic). Here is the situation. As you enter a bedroom, there is a swich which controls the outlet. Can I use this switch's wiring(14/2) to add another swich next to it and power the fan, possibly install the dimmer & fan speed control switch.

How do i do all this wiring?


Please help.

Thank you.
 
  #4  
Old 02-12-04, 05:40 PM
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There are lots of options. As unique says, the exact way to wire it depend on how the existing receptacle/switch is wired. Here are some possibilities:
  • Leave the switch controlling just the receptacle, and use a remote control for the fan and the fan's light.
  • Have the swtich control both the fan and its light, and use the pull chains for individual control. You could leave the receptacle switched, or convert it to unswitched.
  • Replace the existing switch with a duplex switch, with one switch controlling the fan and the other the fan's light. If you want to use a dimmer, you'll probably need to replace the single-gang box with a double-gang box. Again, you could leave the receptacle switched or not.
So you need to do two things: (1) tell us how you want things to work, and (2) open up the switch and receptacle boxes and tell us all the wiring in each box (without disconnecting anything!). You might need to do this separately for each room.

In all cases, you will run a new cable from the ceiling to either the switch box or the receptacle box. Which one depends on the above requested information.
 
  #5  
Old 02-25-04, 10:12 AM
madhuri_69
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here are some more info.

Here is how I would like to hook up the fan. Every(4) bedroom has a SWITCH near the entrance which controls one of the OUTLET. I want to add a switch next to the existing SWITCH to control fan(speed/light).
Is OUTLET going to be switched or not? ( I have no problem either way!)
Do I need 3 wire(B/W/R) or 2(B/W) will do?
I can add double-gang box if I have to.

Here is the wiring situation.

Guest Bedroom:
SWITCH:
One wire coming from top of the box. Black wire is connected to top screw of the switch, White to bottom of the switch and bare copper wire to the ground screw on the switch.

OUTLET which is controlled by the above switch.
One wire coming from top and two wires coming from bottom.
Bottom two black wires and top white wire connected with WIRENUT.
Top Black wire connected to OUTLET on TOP RIGHT (copper side)

Bottom left white wire connected to OUTLET on top left (aluminum screw)
Bottom right white wire connected to OUTLET on bottom left (aluminum screw)

All 3 ground wire and ground wire from OUTLET connected together with wirenut.
 
  #6  
Old 02-25-04, 11:35 AM
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You have a switch loop. This means you have these options. Pick one:[list=1][*]Convert the receptacle to unswitched, and run a new 14/2 cable from the ceiling to the switch box. Use the existing switch to control the fan and light together (using pull chains to select one or the other or both).[*]Convert the receptacle to unswitched, and run a new 14/3 cable from the ceiling to the switch box. Replace the existing switch with a duplex switch (two switches in one package, one above the other, with horizontally moving levers), one half for the light and one half for the fan.[*]Convert the receptacle to unswitched, and run a new 14/3 cable from the ceiling to the switch box. Replace the existing switch box with a double-gang box holding two switches, one for the light and one for the fan.[*]Leave the receptacle switched, and run a new 14/2 cable from the ceiling to the receptacle box. The existing switch will then control the receptacle, plus fan and light together (using pull chains to select one or the other or both).[*]Convert the receptacle to unswitched, and run a new 14/2 cable from the ceiling to the receptacle box. The existing switch will then control the fan and light together (using pull chains to select one or the other or both).[/list=1]All are possible. Which do you choose?
 
  #7  
Old 03-14-04, 05:17 AM
madhuri_69
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Thank you very much.

I want to install the fan with the remote conrol(i bought one fan which did not came with the remote but i want to install the one that you buy separete remote, something like: "Harbor Breeze Universal Ceiling Fan and Light Remote Control: the one you can buy at Lowes- http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=prod...0001811-RC104L
or Home Depot.

Is it also possible to add a switch like:
Fan Light Slide Control by Hunter Fan
SKU: 6976492
Fan Light Controls Preset Dual Slide ``All-Fan`` available at:
http://www.doityourself.com/store/ce...esandparts.htm

Can you please give your opinion on the above points:
1. if i am addig a REMOTE CONTROL to the fan, should I add a wall switch to separately control the speed and light?
2. Or I can keep exising single pole switch to ON/Off fan and use the REMOTE CONTROL.

Sorry it is confusing but I tried my best to post a question.

Thanks a lot.
 
  #8  
Old 03-14-04, 08:28 AM
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You show two kinds of controls. Both will work. I'll give you some things to think about, but you have to make the choice.

If you use a wireless remote control, there is no reason for a wall switch. Even if you had it, you would simply leave it on at all times. A wireless remote gives you the flexibility of controlling the fan from your easy chair, but you won't be able to turn on the light from the entrance to the room when the remote is by the easy chair.
 
  #9  
Old 03-14-04, 12:01 PM
madhuri_69
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Is it true that with the wireless remote control, the wall switch will work as an emergency switch?

Just in case the remote is not working for any reason, the wall switch can turn on/off the fan.

Will wieless remote will work with the pull chain(to control light/speed) fan?

Thanks.
 
  #10  
Old 03-14-04, 07:14 PM
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The wall switch and pull chains are usually left on at all times when you have a remote. But let's say that you turn the wall switch off. Then you wait about ten seconds and turn it back on. Most remote receivers default to fan-off/light-off when power is turned on. The idea is that you probably don't want your fan and light to be on while you're gone if you have a power failure and then power is restored. But of course if you have this type of remote, neither the wall switch nor the pull chains can never be used to turn anything on, only off.

A few (not many) remote receivers default to fan-off/light-on when power is turned on. If you have this type, the light can be turned on by the wall switch in an emergency (turn the switch off, wait ten seconds, turn it back on), but you can never turn on the fan with the wall switch or the pull chains.

If you care, you better ask the manufacturer. The default operation isn't usually noted on the packaging.

Fan manufacturers are routinely including remotes with their fans because it helps sell the fan. However, I believe them to be more annoying than helpful, especially if they provide the primary light source to the room.
 
  #11  
Old 03-15-04, 08:23 AM
madhuri_69
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I want to know that what would you do in this situation:

1. Remote control with the wall switch.
2 Remote control with the Fan/Light Control.
3. Any other suggetions!

Thank you.


 
  #12  
Old 03-15-04, 07:57 PM
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I wouldn't want the remote at all. But it's entirely your call.
 
  #13  
Old 03-16-04, 10:03 PM
madhuri_69
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Thank you for your input.

May be I will add remote for my daughter's (8 yr old!) bedroom. Just beacuse her frind bedroom has it, she wants to have it!

Ok for this following situation, how do I go about doing all the wiring.

SWITCH:
One wire coming from top of the box.

BLACK wire is connected to TOP screw of the switch.
WHITE wire to BOTTOM screw of the switch.
BARE copper wire to ground screw of the switch.

OUTLET which is controlled by the above switch.
One wire coming from top and two wires coming from bottom.

Bottom two BLACK wires and top WHITE wire connected with WIRENUT.
Top BLACK wire connected to OUTLET on TOP RIGHT (copper side)

Bottom left WHITE wire connected to OUTLET on top left (aluminum screw) Bottom right WHITE wire connected to OUTLET on bottom left (aluminum screw)

All 3 ground wire and ground wire from OUTLET connected together with wirenut.

What do I need to do(if any) at OUTLET.

I will have to run a 14/2(14/3?) wire from FAN to the wall switch.
How do I connect them.

Thank you very much for your help.
 
  #14  
Old 03-20-04, 09:21 AM
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First, shut off the breaker.

Next, let's disconnect the switch. Pull the switch out and disconnect all the wires. Separate them and cap them off temporarily for safety.

First, we need to make the switched receptacle unswitched:[list=1][*]Shut off the breaker.[*]Disconnect all of the existing wiring in the box.[*]Use a wire nut to connect all three black wires to each other and to a black pigtail.[*]Connect the other end of the black pigtail to one of the brass-colored screws.[*]Use another wire nut to connect all three white wires to each other and to a white pigtail.[*]Connect the other end of the white pigtail to one of the silver-colored screws.[*]Use another wire nut to connect all three bare wires to each other and to a bare pigtail.[*]Connect the other end of the bare pigtail to the green screw.[/list=1]Post back when you get this far.

Then clarify whether you want one switch on the wall or two. If two (one for the light and one for the fan), do you want to use two separate switches in a double-gang box, or one duplex switch in a single gang box. If you plan to use a specialty fan switch, please tell us about it and give us its make and model number. Finally, clarify what you've decide about using a remote control.
 
  #15  
Old 03-21-04, 05:14 AM
madhuri_69
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Done as you said(capping all the wires at the switch and making switched receptacle unswitched).

I am planning to use one switch (keeping the same existing on/off switch ) on the wall and also would like to use remote control.

Thank you.
 
  #16  
Old 03-24-04, 02:38 AM
madhuri_69
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Done as you said(capping all the wires at the switch and making switched receptacle unswitched).

I am planning to use one switch (keeping the same existing on/off switch ) on the wall and also would like to use remote control.

I am ready to do the wiring and installing the fan. Please let me know what to do next.

Thank you for all your help.
 
  #17  
Old 03-29-04, 08:05 AM
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Now do this:
  • Run a new 14/2 cable from the ceiling to the wall switch box. At the wall switch, connect both black wires to the switch, and the white wires to each other.
  • At the ceiling, install a fan-rated ceiling box properly supported. Connect the wires as instructed by your remote receiver instructions. Normally, you just match colors. The input side of the recevier attaches to the ceiling wires, and the output side of the receiver attaches to the fan wires.
If it were me, I'd run 14/3 rather than 14/2, leaving the red wire currently unused and reserved for possible future use.
 
  #18  
Old 03-29-04, 09:43 AM
madhuri_69
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Is it a code violation? - I believe you must maintain the switched receptacle. Code requires a switch by the entry door which controls either a light fixture or a receptacle where a lamp can be plugged in. This way, a light can be turned on when entering the room.
 
  #19  
Old 03-29-04, 11:12 AM
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You need a switched light or a switched receptacle. You should mount your remote transmitter by the door and this would serve as the light switch. It is unlikely that the regular wall switch will control the light anyway, and you've already converted the receptacle to unswitched.
 
  #20  
Old 04-01-04, 02:31 PM
madhuri_69
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Thank you for your help.

Now I want to do other rooms.

Here arr the wiring situation for each rooms:

Bedroom 1:

(Bedroom # 1)
SWITCH:
One wire coming from bottom of the box.

BLACK wire connected to bottom screw of the switch.
WHITE wire connected to top screw of the switch.
BARE copper wire to the ground screw of the switch.

OUTLET which is controlled by the above switch
One wire coming from top and two wires coming from bottom.

Bottom two BLACK and top WHITE wire connected with WIRENUT.
Top BLACK wire connected to OUTLET on TOP RIGHT (copper side)

Bottom left WHITE wire connected to OUTLET on top left (aluminum screw)
Bottom right WHITE wire connected to OUTLET on bottom left (aluminum screw)

All 3 ground wire and ground wire from OUTLET connected together with wirenut.
 
  #21  
Old 04-01-04, 02:32 PM
madhuri_69
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(Bedroom # 2)
SWITCH:
One wire coming from bottom of the box.

BLACK wire connected to top screw of the switch.
WHITE wire to bottom screw of the switch.
BARE copper wire to the ground screw of the switch.

OUTLET which is controlled by the above switch
One wire coming from top RIGHT and two wires coming from top LEFT

Top RIGHT BLACK wire connected to OUTLET on TOP RIGHT screw (copper side)
Both the TOP LEFT BLACK wire and White wire from TOP RIGHT connected together with wirenut.

Both the TOP LEFT WHITE wire are connected to OUTLET on LEFT side top and bottom screw(aluminum side)

All 3 ground wire and ground wire from OUTLET connected together with wirenut
 
  #22  
Old 04-01-04, 02:33 PM
madhuri_69
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(Bedroom # 3)
SWITCH:
One wire coming from TOP, Two wires coming from BOTTOM of the box.

BLACK wire coming from TOP, BLACK wire coming from BOTTOM LEFT side and BLACK wire coming from BOTTOM SCREW(copper side) of the SWITCH connected together with wirenut (pigtailed).

BLACK wire coming from BOTTOM RIGHT connected to TOP SCREW(copper side) of the SWITCH.

All 3 WHITE wires connected together with wirenut

All 3 ground wire and ground wire from SWITCH connected together with wirenut(pigtailed).

OUTLET:
One wire from TOP RIGHT.

BLACK wire connected to OUTLET on BOTTOM RIGHT screw(Copper)

White wire connected to OUTLET on BOTTOM LEFT screw(Aluminum)

GROUND wire connected to OUTLET GROUND screw
 
  #23  
Old 04-01-04, 02:34 PM
madhuri_69
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Can you please reply for each room individually?

Thank you.
 
  #24  
Old 04-01-04, 07:01 PM
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Bedrooms #1 and #2 are just like the room you just did, so the directions are the same.

Bedroom #3 is different.

Can I convince you to do bedrooms #1 and #2 first, and then come back for instructions on bedroom #3?
 
  #25  
Old 04-01-04, 09:20 PM
madhuri_69
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Thank you very much.

OK, let me finish Guest bedroom, Bedroom#1, and Bedroom#2.
I will post back when I am ready to do the final bedroom[i.e. bedroom#3].

Thank you again.
 
  #26  
Old 04-03-04, 12:13 AM
madhuri_69
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Today, Saturday I am planning to complete Guestbedroom, Room#1 and Room#2 and from your reply( copied below ):

{ Now do this:
Run a new 14/2 cable from the ceiling to the wall switch box. At the wall switch, connect both black wires to the switch, and the white wires to each other.
At the ceiling, install a fan-rated ceiling box properly supported. Connect the wires as instructed by your remote receiver instructions. Normally, you just match colors. The input side of the recevier attaches to the ceiling wires, and the output side of the receiver attaches to the fan wires.
If it were me, I'd run 14/3 rather than 14/2, leaving the red wire currently unused and reserved for possible future use. }

I am going to run 14/3 and what is the alternate to make this 14/3 more efficient wiring?

Please let me know, so instead of redoing it later, I can do it better to begin with.

Thank you!
 
  #27  
Old 04-03-04, 09:09 AM
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If you run 14/3 rather than 14/2, simply put a small wire nut on the red wire at each end (don't even strip the insulation), and wire everything with the remaining wires exactly as if it was 14/2.

The red wire is reserved for future use (in case you get fed up with the remote control some day).
 
  #28  
Old 04-03-04, 09:54 AM
madhuri_69
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Thank you very much.
 
  #29  
Old 04-07-04, 03:12 PM
madhuri_69
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I was expecting a wire coming from the attic to the switch in first three bedrooms(Guest Bedroom/Bedrooms #1/Bedrooms #2), but no there is none.

Is it common to have wires coming to switch(in a switch loop) from bottom or sides?

This means I have to locate the switch's position, go up to the intersection of wall(where the switch is) and ceiling, go in the attic, drill a hole in the stud (hoping this is the right location), pull the switch box completely out of the wall, insert the wire in the drilled hole untill it shows up in the swith box hole.

Is there any other suggetion for this?

Thank you in addvance.
 
  #30  
Old 04-07-04, 03:28 PM
madhuri_69
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Also need some help in drilling the hole in ath attic to bring wire from fan-rated ceiling box to the switch.

What size and what type of drill bit shoul I use?

When mentioned in previous post, just want to verify about connecting the black wires. The existing BLACK wire goes to the bottom screw of the switch and the BLACK[NEW]wire coming from fan-rated ceiling box goes to the top screw of the switch, right?

If this is not correct, then please give me the exact connection information.
 
  #31  
Old 04-11-04, 03:46 PM
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Is it common to have wires coming to switch (in a switch loop) from bottom or sides?
There's no "common" way. Anything is possible.

Is there any other suggetion for this?
Your plan sounds good. Measure carefully. You may not need to pull out the switch box. You should probably be able to drop a chain and hook it through one of the holes in the switch box.


What size and what type of drill bit shoul I use?
Whatever the cable fits through. Probably 5/8" should do. Since you are drilling through wood (i think), I'd use a wood drill bit.

When mentioned in previous post, just want to verify about connecting the black wires. The existing BLACK wire goes to the bottom screw of the switch and the BLACK [NEW] wire coming from fan-rated ceiling box goes to the top screw of the switch, right?
Doesn't matter which screw you use for which wire.
 
  #32  
Old 04-21-04, 04:18 PM
madhuri_69
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Thank a lot for all your help. Sorry I am posting after long time but I was able to install ceiling fans in guest bedroom, bedroom# 1 and bedroom# 2. I enjoyed doing all the work. It was lot of fun. My older daughter was helping, watching and learnig while I was doing all the work. She found it very interesting.

Now I am ready to install last fan in the bedroom#3. I am ready for all your help.

I can not thank you all enough for all your help.

 
  #33  
Old 04-21-04, 08:00 PM
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Bedroom #3 is simpler. No modifications will be necessary in the receptacle box. Here you can wire your fan to the switch box and also choose whether or not to leave the receptacle switched. Let's assume that you want the receptacle to be unswitched like in the other rooms.

Here's how:
  1. Shut off the breaker.
  2. Run a new 14/2 cable from the ceiling to the switch box. Since you already have three cables into the switch box, it's going to get crowded. If it gets too crowded, you may need to replace the switch box with a larger one.
  3. Remove the black wire coming in on the bottom right from the top screw on the switch. Instead, connect this wire in with the other black wires in the wire nut. This makes your receptacle unswiched.
  4. Connect the white wire of your new cable to the other white wires.
  5. Connect the ground wire of your new cable to the other ground wires.
  6. Connect the black wire of your new cable to the top screw on the switch (from which you removed the other wire).
That's all there is to it. The ceiling connections are the same as before.
 
  #34  
Old 04-22-04, 07:04 AM
madhuri_69
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As you mentioned about getting too crowded, I tried taking out the switch box, but no luck. Any suggestion about taking out the switch box, please!

Thank you very much.
 
  #35  
Old 04-22-04, 03:09 PM
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Slip a hacksaw blade of sawsall blade between the box and the stud it is nailed to and saw off the nails. Then replace it with an old-work box. Before you do that, however, make sure you can find an old-work box that is enough bigger than the box you have to make it worthwhile.
 
  #36  
Old 08-14-04, 08:18 PM
KarenLynx
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Ceiling Fan Remote vs. Wall Switch

I just purchased a Hamptom Bay Windward II Ceiling fan with a light kit and a remote control. I am replacing a 14 year old Casablanca that has a wall switch wired for the fan and the light kit (I can control the light and the fan independently with a 3 position Casablanca control which has a button for the light, a button for the fan and a button to turn the power off). I want to continue to control the light from the wall switch (I need to be able to turn the light on when I enter the room). What options do I have? Do I disregard the remote all together? Can I control the light from the wall and the fan from the remote? Again, I must be able to control the light from the wall, so I am prepared to disregard the remote completely if necessary. I installed the original Casablanca myself after having the builder wire for a ceiling fan, so I can connect the new fan the same way I assume.
 
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