Problem with 220 and 110 line.

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  #1  
Old 04-02-04, 12:11 AM
Ken303
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Question Problem with 220 and 110 line.

My kitchen stove is 220V. and all 110V. sockets on one line work only when I turn on the oven. The oven does not heat up, but the electric control panel works. And whatever is running on this 110V. line is less than 110 volts. The thermostat in the stove's electric panel switches on and off every few minutes, and everything on this 110V line switches on and off also.

I've checked the 110V. breakers, but not the 220V.

Also, there is a resetable breaker socket on the same 110V. line.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

Last edited by Ken303; 04-02-04 at 12:31 AM.
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  #2  
Old 04-02-04, 03:47 AM
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You will need to tell us a bit more.

By 'all 110V. sockets on one line' do you mean half of the 110 receptacles in your home or apartment, or do you mean the 110 receptacles on a single circuit?

What do you mean by 'resettable breaker socket'? Do you mean something like a GFCI where you have a 'test' and 'reset' button in the face of the receptacle?

What sort of electric panel do you have? Name brand?

How many circuit breakers?

When you checked the circuit breakers, did any of them feel soft or different? Did you flip them off and on, or did you just look to see that they all were on, or did you just push them on?

Do you have any fuses, eg. pullouts for _main_ fuses?

Have you or anyone else done work on the electric here?

Did this problem recently occur?

I can tell you _exactly_ what is happening, but without the above information we can't figure out where the problem is.

Power coming into your home is in the form 'single phase three wire' or '240V center tap'. What this means is that you have two 'hot' wires with 240V (nominal, could really measure anything from 220V to 260V) between them, and a 'neutral' wire that is half way between the two, so that the 'hot' to 'neutral' voltage is 120V (again, nominal). All of the circuit breakers in the panel are connected to 'bus bars' which connect them to the 'hot' supplies.

What is happening is that one of the 'hot' supplies has become disconnected somewhere, so that the electric range is now only getting the 120V ('hot' to 'neutral'), and its heating element doesn't work. But this disconnected 'hot' is somehow still connected to this other circuit. When is happening is that when the thermostat is 'on', then the heating elements are being connected from 'hot to hot', but since one of the 'hot' supplies is disconnected what is really happening is that the heating element is simply being used to power that flaky 120V circuit.

This is seen, for example, if one of the _main_ hot wires becomes disconnected, potentially a _very_ dangerous situation which must be fixed by the power company or an electrician depending upon where the main disconnects. But in this case, fully half of the 120V circuits in the house would have the symptoms you describe.

My hunch on insufficient information is that one of the wires to the range got disconnected in the circuit breaker panel, and shorted to this errant 120V circuit, or even worse, one of the range wires was _incorrectly_ connected to this breaker. The 120V breaker tripped, so now the 120V circuit is only powered _through_ the range, and the range is not getting its connection to both hot legs for 240V. Finally, my guess is that the 120V breaker looks like it is on when tripped, and that you need to push it off and then on to reset.

-Jon
 
  #3  
Old 04-02-04, 04:39 AM
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DO NOT WAIT. GET THIS FIXED NOW.

You have a serious problem that needs to be corrected immediately. Start with the power company. And start NOW. Do not wait.

I suspect that one of the hot feeds into your house is loose and is not delivering any power. When you turn on the range you are allowing power from the hot side that does work to flow through the range to the hot side that doesn't work. This is causing half your house to work when the range is on.

You are risking damage to all your electric equipment. Items like computers, stereos, TVs, etc are sensitive to voltage variations and may get damaged. Worse yet, a loose connection is a fire hazard.

DO NOT WAIT. GET THIS FIXED NOW.
 
  #4  
Old 04-03-04, 01:49 PM
Ken303
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Jon,
Thanks very much for your reply.

The problem only affects one circuit, but any appliance that re-
quires more current or 220V., like the dryer, furnace motor,
washing machine, & electric stove either doesn't run or runs slow.

The same 110V circuit does have a GFCI in it, with test button.
The socket and test button work OK.

The control panel is a GE.

The panel has 2 - 220V circuit breakers,
2 - 110V " " at 100 qmps each.

and 7- 15 amp, and 7- 20 amp circuit breakers, with a flip switch.

The 220V breakers have two wires connected to each side.

When I turn on the oven, setting it to bake, etc., and push the
"on' button, everything on that one circuit starts up, but clicks
off and on every few minutes as the oven panel thermostat
clicks on and off.

Hope that enough info Jon, otherwise I'd welcome your questions
and comments.

Thanks very much.

Ken
 
  #5  
Old 04-03-04, 02:00 PM
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You would do yourself a great favor if you pick up the phone and call your power company. Right now!
 
  #6  
Old 04-03-04, 03:00 PM
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Exclamation

John and the others are right. You are risking a serious fire and damage to your electric system and anything connected to it. Have this fixed NOW, before it is too late!
 
  #7  
Old 04-03-04, 06:11 PM
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Dude,

You are doing a classic: ignoring the bulk of people telling you the news is bad to listen to the one person saying that it might not be bad...and then ignoring that one person when they say that it probably is bad.

You described a problem with _one_ appliance and _one_ circuit, and based on that I suggested that the problem _might_ be limited in extent. But I also said that something that could cause this was a loose main, that this was a dangerous situation, and that you would have to get it professionally fixed.

Everyone else has said to call the power company or an electrician. The response that you posted was only to me. _Listen_ to what everyone is saying; you are getting free advice, and free advice is worth what you pay for it! That applies to me and everyone else here.

The problem only affects one circuit, but any appliance that re-
quires more current or 220V., like the dryer, furnace motor,
washing machine, & electric stove either doesn't run or runs slow.
Your additional descriptions says to me that _every_ 220V appliance in your house is being affected by your problem, _not_ just one circuit.

Go, turn off _every_ 2 pole breaker in the panel. Then _call_ the power company or and electrician.

Devices can be damaged by overvoltage or under voltage. Stop waiting on free advice to tell you what you want to hear. Call a professional.

-Jon
 
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