rewiring room

hello.
i'm wiring a room and want the following configuration:

2 wall sconces on a single switch
7 outlets, NOT switched.

my basic question is this:

should I bring a feeder wire into the first outlet, split it, then from the outlet box:
1. run one wire to the next outlet;
2. run the second wire to the first sconce (then run a wire to the switch and second sconce)

OR

would it be better to run 2 feeder wires, one dedicated to the outlets an one to the sconces/switch?

I hope these two scenarios make sense. Any thoughts are *much* appreciated. Thanks!

 

Either way is fine as far code says. Some people like to keep llights on separate circuits so if the breaker trips the lights stay on.

 

Note that if you are going to put the switch between the wall sconces that you will need a piece of 14-3 (or 12-3) between the first wall sconce and the switch.

 

i have a book that has another way to do it, and i'm interested on your opinion on what would be better, if either. so, i have power running into an outlet, then onto the first sconce, and then onto the switch.

basically, they say to mark the white wire from the switch to the first sconce black, and connect it to the hot wire (black) from the power source.

then, connect the black wire from the switch to the black wire of the fixture.

and, finally, connect the white wire from the power source coming in to the white wire on the sconce.

i'm assuming your method and this one are two ways to do the same thing. i've already run 12-2 using this method, and i'll definitely use the 12-3 if it is the right thing to do. i just wanted to check before i started pulling out the wiring i've started to put in.

thanks again.

 

Many books have diagrams showing power going to a light, and then to the switch. Many people make the mistake of extrapolating this to two lights and a switch, and it does not extrapolate well.

Here are a few workable options for seven receptacles (R) and one switch (S) controlling two lights (L). I use "=' to mean 14/3 and "-" to indicate 14/2, and Rx to mean any one of the seven receptacles.[list=1][*]Power-R1-R2-R3-R4-R5-R6-R7, and Rx-S-L1-L2.[*]Power-R1-R2-R3-R4-R5-R6-R7, and Rx-L1=S-L2.[*]Power-R1-R2-R3-R4-R5-R6-R7, and Rx-L1=L2-S.[*]Power-R1-R2-R3-R4-R5-R6-R7, and Rx-L1-S, and L1-L2.[/list=1]The important point to remember is that the following will not work:[list=1][*]Power-R1-R2-R3-R4-R5-R6-R7, and Rx-L1-L2-S.[*]Power-R1-R2-R3-R4-R5-R6-R7, and Rx-L1-S-L2.[/list=1]

 

great info, thanks.

is using 12/2 and 12/3 OK for a 15 amp circuit?

 

12 ga wire on a 15 amp circuit is just fine.

14 ga wire on a 20 amp circuit is a no-no.

 

Hi again. So I'm going with option #2:

Power-R1-R2-R3-R4-R5-R6-R7, and Rx-L1=S-L2.

I'm not sure what to do with the 3rd (red) wire running from the 1st light to the switch (14/3), and then what to do with it when tying together the 14/2 that will run from the switch to the 2nd light.

Please pardon my ignorance. Thanks again for all the help.

 

Havab
this is ny first reply, hope I'm doing it right.
If you've already pulled your wires, at the switch box, your question concerned only the red wire. It goes two places. Tkae it to the other side of the switch and also to the black wire going to the other fixture.

 

You selected the most confusing of all the options, but so be it. Option 1 was much simpler.

Karl's instructions are correct. Here is more detail.

At L1, connect the black coming in from Rx to the black going out to S. Don't connect either of these to L1. Connect all three white wires (from Rx, to S, and from L1) together. Connect red going to S to the black from L1.

At S, connect the black from L1 to one screw on the switch. Use a wire nut to connect the red from L1 and the black from L2 to a pigtail, which is connected to the other screw on the switch. Connect white from L1 to white to L2, but not to the switch.

At L2, connect black to black and white to white.

 

thanks again for all the information. incredibly helpful.

 

So i've completed the wiring, and everything in the room is working as designed. the outlets have constant power, and the light fixtures are controlled by the switch.

i have noticed, however, that the lights on a different circuit seem to periodically dim since I've turned on the power to this new circuit.

I turned off the breaker for this new circuit and the dimming continues on the existing circuit.

As part of this project, I also removed a circuit that I no longer needed (and used the connected to the new wiring to the same circuit.) I used 12/2 wire and a 20 amp circuit.

Not sure how much of this info is useful, as always, I appreciate the help.

 

Well, I went back into the panel and noticed a breaker that was a little loose. I pushed it back in and the dimming seemed to have gone away.

The breaker that was loose wasn't the breaker for the circuit that had lights that were dimming, or for the new wiring job I did. It was, however, the breaker below the one I used for the new job.

I also noticed that the the neutral wire for the new wiring job on the neutral bus wasn't as tight as it could be, so I tightened that up. It wasn't so loose that it would come out, but I gave it another half turn or so. I did the same for a large collection of thick wire also connected to the neutral bus.

Do either of these things sound like something that would remedy the dimming issue? Lights on other circuits were not dimming at any point.

Also, are electricians typically willing to review a do-it-yourselfer's wiring job?

Thanks again for your patience and willingness to share your knowledge with the rest of us.