Dryer three prong to four prong

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Old 04-26-04, 05:50 PM
JonBurrows
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Dryer three prong to four prong

I thought I would change the receptacle for my dryer from a three prong to the new standard four prong for the benefit of having my dryer grounded. I had 10/3 running to the non grounding three prong receptacle with the ground doing nothing in the box.. In putting on the new dryer pig tail I followed the manufacturers directions and connected the green wire from the new 4 prong pig tail to the chassis, the white to the center, red and black to either side. I took the ground jumper wire off the nuteral terminal and this is where I deviated from the directions... Instead of reconnecting the end to the nuteral as the directions stated, I simply cut off the spade lug and put a wire nut on it and taped it. I couldnt figure out why they wanted me to put this jumper onto the nuteral terminal? Did I miss something or is it ok not to connect the little jumper to the nuteral?
 
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Old 04-26-04, 06:08 PM
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I don't understand. The directions told you take "the ground jumper wire off the neutral terminal" and "reconnect the end to the neutral"? Isn't that just connecting it back to the same place you just disconnected it from? This doesn't make any sense to me. Perhaps I have misinterpreted what you said, or you misinterpreted what the directions said.

I hope you verified that the grounding wire in the receptacle box is really properly grounded. Otherwise, you have made it more dangerous rather than safer.
 
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Old 04-27-04, 01:37 AM
JonBurrows
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No, it said take the jumper that was from the nuteral terminal on the dryer to chassis ground and to now put on the nuteral terminal. The chassis is now grounded to the green pig tail wire. Yes, I will go to the box later today to just verify that the bare wire from the receptacle is on the ground buss. I couldnt imagine it wouldnt be, but you never know.....
 
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Old 04-27-04, 07:36 AM
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Sounds like they just wanted to make sure it didn't touch the chassis, while still preserving the wire for reconnection to the chassis later in case you move into a house with pre-1996 wiring. You have accomplished the former but not the latter. It's okay, but you have made your work harder should you ever move this dryer to another house.
 
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Old 04-27-04, 09:17 AM
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You did the correct thing, taking the jumper out, (cut and tape).
I wish the instructions for this problem was made clear on the back panel of dryers, and cordsets.

(New dryers come with a jumper spliced into the nuetral that bonds to the grounding terminal, and unless one figures out that it must be removed when using a 4-wire connection, it is undocumented. It is a CYA policy of the manufactures to insure that appliaces are grounded when installed by novice home-owners and non-electrically-trained delivery personel connecting to a 3-wire system and would not manually install a jumper.)

I hope this gives clarity for those reading and not fully familiar to dryers and ranges.
gj
 
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Old 04-27-04, 12:08 PM
JonBurrows
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Thank you for your help.. Much appreciated. Originally I followed the directions and secured the jumper to the nuteral. But with the two spade connections on the one terminal block screw, I feared it was sticking out so far that it might actually touch the block cover, so I said the heck with it and decided to lop it off and cover it. Thanks again! I feel much better now... I'm not too nervous with 110.. but 220 is another story... particularly when the machine is sitting an inch away from the washer which connects to my water supply... figured a true ground had to be better than this nuteral ground.. none of which I understood in the first place....
 
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