garage sub panel-for father in law-GULP!

Old 07-07-04, 10:45 PM
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Smile garage sub panel-for father in law-GULP!

Hi Guys,

Thanks for taking the time to field my question. I have searched for hours regarding this topic, and think i have it understood but am not completely confident. I know that a single minor difference can cause a certain procedure to be used or not so wanted to give my specifics to see what you guys think. I am running a sub panel to a detached builing. Sub panel will consist of 2 15 amp for lights, one for convenience outlets. (both 120 volt circuits) 10 awg 2 wire w/ bare ground already run to subpanel. neutral and ground will not be bonded at sub. grounding rods used for sub panel ground, while sub panel neutral is returned all of the way back to main panel, is this right? addition i am feeding sub w/ 30 amp breaker. is it safe to assume that one hot lug (for 220 volt) is just to be left empty? thanks for any input...this work is being done on my future father-in-law's house...YIKES! no need to advise me not to "F--- this one up"...I already know

thanks again guys
Old 07-18-04, 02:41 PM
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garage sub pan-for father in law - GULP!

There are alot of post on this, search the forum, but it sounds correct. I am doing the same thing.

Let me know how yours turns out. I am wiring a Gabreil shed 16' X 20', first floor is 8 ft, second floor is 6'.
Old 07-18-04, 06:35 PM
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If I understand correctly, you're going to be running one 120 V circuit to the garage subpanel, then splitting it into 2 circuits in the panel. Your subpanel breakers must be sized for the wire in those two circuits (20 Amp for #12, 15Amp for #14, etc.). Since you're using #10 for the feeder, then the largest breaker you can use is 30 amp, which you mentioned. However, if you're using a 30 amp double pole, it's more than you need... a single pole 30 amp is all that's required. If the double pole is already there, and you don't need the extra space that it's taking up, I suppose you can leave the second terminal open, but this may create some confusion for the next guy that opens the panel. If it were me, I'd use a single pole 30, and fill the empty space with an "extra" breaker, labeling it "open" (for future expansion). I'm just a "DIY-er", though, not a pro.
Old 07-18-04, 06:44 PM
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I think that the grounds still need to be connected together, even though you have installed a ground rod at the panel. Guys, please confirm this.
Old 07-18-04, 08:30 PM
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The grounding wires from the two circuits in the detached building, the grounding electrode conductor from the grounding rods, and the grounding wire in the 10/2 from the house all connect to the grounding bar in the subpanel.

If you don't need the breaker space on the other leg of the subpanel, then you can just leave one of the hot lugs unconnected in the subpanel. If you need the spaces, you can jumper the two lugs together.

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