GFCI receptacle with double pole Switch


  #1  
Old 10-12-04, 08:25 PM
canalcat
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GFCI receptacle with double pole Switch

Hi Folks,
I have been trying to install a GFCI receptacle at the end of a run and in the same box that contains a double pole switch which controls a light fixture. (I thought I had purchased a single pole switch). I have the red, black, white and ground wires in the box which I have disconnected from the old receptacle and single pole switch....... which both worked OK. I have tried various connections, none of which will get juice to the light. I do get juice to the receptacle. How would you suggest I wire these components.
 
  #2  
Old 10-12-04, 08:30 PM
J
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There's no way to tell from looking only at the switch box whether the red wire or the black wire contains the continuous power. You'll need to either look in the light fixture box, or test the wires in the switch box. Once you know that, the rest is really simple (given your assertion that this all worked perfectly before).

Why are you changing this? Are you just trying to change a regular receptacle with a GFCI? If so, why change the switch too?
 
  #3  
Old 10-12-04, 08:52 PM
canalcat
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Thanks for getting back to me John.

Both the red and white wires are connected to the light fixture. The black wire passes on by.

The reason for changing the switch is because although it functioned, the toggle was worn on it causing it to click to the off position. I figured now was a good time to replace it and at the same time add a GFCI receptacle in place of the standard one.
 
  #4  
Old 10-12-04, 08:58 PM
J
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Okay, this is pretty standard stuff.

In the switch box, the red wire connects to one screw on the switch (and to nothing else).

The white wire just attaches to the "line white" connection on the GFCI.

The black should be connected with a wire nut to two pigtails, one to the other screw on the switch, and on to the "line hot" connection on the GFCI.

The grounding wire should be connected with a wire nut to two pigtails, one to the green screw on each device.
 
  #5  
Old 10-12-04, 09:15 PM
canalcat
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It appears my error was with the black wire connections. However it's a little after midnight here and I am going to finish this project in the morning. I will let you know I made out.

Thanks again!
 
  #6  
Old 10-13-04, 08:32 AM
canalcat
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John,

Both the receptacle and the switch function as per your instructions however the light which is operated by the switch does not go out when the GFCI is tripped. Is there a way to have it function downstream from the receptacle so that it trips the GFCI if the cause arises?
 
  #7  
Old 10-13-04, 08:37 AM
R
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Many people do not want a light to be protected by a GFCI, because it means that a trip puts you in the dark, which adds to the surprise and uncertainty of the situation.

To have the light protected by the GFCI, the hot wire and the neutral wire for the light must be connected to the load terminals of the GFCI.
 
  #8  
Old 10-13-04, 08:43 AM
canalcat
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Good Point Bob! I think I will leave it just the way it is.

I appreciate the help of both of you. It's nice to have a place where you can get such quick replies and good service. Best wishes to all.
 
  #9  
Old 10-13-04, 11:31 AM
J
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With the cabling you have in place, you cannot GFCI protect the light even if you wanted to (which you don't).
 
  #10  
Old 10-13-04, 08:04 PM
canalcat
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OK.....Thanks again John
 
 

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