GFCI receptacle with double pole Switch
#1
10-12-04, 08:25 PM
GFCI receptacle with double pole Switch
Hi Folks,
I have been trying to install a GFCI receptacle at the end of a run and in the same box that contains a double pole switch which controls a light fixture. (I thought I had purchased a single pole switch). I have the red, black, white and ground wires in the box which I have disconnected from the old receptacle and single pole switch....... which both worked OK. I have tried various connections, none of which will get juice to the light. I do get juice to the receptacle. How would you suggest I wire these components.
I have been trying to install a GFCI receptacle at the end of a run and in the same box that contains a double pole switch which controls a light fixture. (I thought I had purchased a single pole switch). I have the red, black, white and ground wires in the box which I have disconnected from the old receptacle and single pole switch....... which both worked OK. I have tried various connections, none of which will get juice to the light. I do get juice to the receptacle. How would you suggest I wire these components.
#2
10-12-04, 08:30 PM
Member
There's no way to tell from looking only at the switch box whether the red wire or the black wire contains the continuous power. You'll need to either look in the light fixture box, or test the wires in the switch box. Once you know that, the rest is really simple (given your assertion that this all worked perfectly before).
Why are you changing this? Are you just trying to change a regular receptacle with a GFCI? If so, why change the switch too?
Why are you changing this? Are you just trying to change a regular receptacle with a GFCI? If so, why change the switch too?
#3
10-12-04, 08:52 PM
Thanks for getting back to me John.
Both the red and white wires are connected to the light fixture. The black wire passes on by.
The reason for changing the switch is because although it functioned, the toggle was worn on it causing it to click to the off position. I figured now was a good time to replace it and at the same time add a GFCI receptacle in place of the standard one.
Both the red and white wires are connected to the light fixture. The black wire passes on by.
The reason for changing the switch is because although it functioned, the toggle was worn on it causing it to click to the off position. I figured now was a good time to replace it and at the same time add a GFCI receptacle in place of the standard one.
#4
10-12-04, 08:58 PM
Member
Okay, this is pretty standard stuff.
In the switch box, the red wire connects to one screw on the switch (and to nothing else).
The white wire just attaches to the "line white" connection on the GFCI.
The black should be connected with a wire nut to two pigtails, one to the other screw on the switch, and on to the "line hot" connection on the GFCI.
The grounding wire should be connected with a wire nut to two pigtails, one to the green screw on each device.
In the switch box, the red wire connects to one screw on the switch (and to nothing else).
The white wire just attaches to the "line white" connection on the GFCI.
The black should be connected with a wire nut to two pigtails, one to the other screw on the switch, and on to the "line hot" connection on the GFCI.
The grounding wire should be connected with a wire nut to two pigtails, one to the green screw on each device.
#6
10-13-04, 08:32 AM
John,
Both the receptacle and the switch function as per your instructions however the light which is operated by the switch does not go out when the GFCI is tripped. Is there a way to have it function downstream from the receptacle so that it trips the GFCI if the cause arises?
Both the receptacle and the switch function as per your instructions however the light which is operated by the switch does not go out when the GFCI is tripped. Is there a way to have it function downstream from the receptacle so that it trips the GFCI if the cause arises?
#7
10-13-04, 08:37 AM
Many people do not want a light to be protected by a GFCI, because it means that a trip puts you in the dark, which adds to the surprise and uncertainty of the situation.
To have the light protected by the GFCI, the hot wire and the neutral wire for the light must be connected to the load terminals of the GFCI.
To have the light protected by the GFCI, the hot wire and the neutral wire for the light must be connected to the load terminals of the GFCI.
#9
10-13-04, 11:31 AM
Member
With the cabling you have in place, you cannot GFCI protect the light even if you wanted to (which you don't).
