Doing research for appliances for my kitchen remodel, I believe I hit upon a 'bargain' way to achieve the combined unit look of a Microwave electric wall oven, using the separate appliances and a microwave trim kit. I will save $600.00-$800 bucks! I'm happy.

My husband is concerned that we are overlooking something very important, like wiring, etc. I said I'd ask this forum.

Does anyone out there know what is the benefit of purchasing a combination Microwave and single electric wall oven vs. putting the pieces together separately. Our intended placement can easily be wired for 2 separate dedicated circuits straight back to the circuit box.

Anyone?

FYI the appliances I've selected are these 2 Frigidaire models and the spec sheets identify these 2 units as 'compatible' with each other for a wall installation.


Wall oven FEB27S5A S/B
Microwave GLMB209DB Black
(trim kit ) MWTRMKT27B

I am planning to install these 2 units (&trim kit) in an existing cherry cabinet-any precautions I should take on wiring? Does each appliance need a separate run to the circuit box?

Thank-you.
Terry

 

Hi, I recently installed a GE wall oven and GE microwave (with the help of the microwave installation kit) for the very same reason. I did run a dedicated electrical line (220V) for the oven, but not the microwave. I built my own "box" for these using the specs supplied by the GE web site. No special considerations other than this. It came out great and we are "cookin."

Hope this helps.
Cosmo66ok@msn.com

 

If the microwave is fixed in place it needs to be on it's own circuit. In fact even a new countertop micro (unless it's tiny) I would recommend being on a dedicated circuit.
The oven obviously needs it's own dedicated 220 circuit. Typically a single wall oven requires a 120/240 volt, 30 amp circuit. Sometimes 20 amp.

 

The most prevelant reason is in the frequency of or necessity of replacing a single appliance rather than both, in a single unit.

The PDF imformation is complete enough to allow you prepare the cabinet for the appliances.

Read them carefully.

The electrical requirement for the oven is a 240V 20Amp circuit.
As a general requirement, a MW is required to be on a seperate 15amp circuit.

 

Kitchen receptacle branch circuits must be 20 amp. There are a few exceptions but the MW is not one of them. Especially if it is on the counter.
One could argue that a fixed unit could be on a 15 but with today's built in micros the rating typically requires a 20.

 

Your reference to "kitchen branch circuits", is correct, however, does not correctly address the original answer and question posed, which specifically addresses the appliance being "built-in" and as a seperate 15 amp circuit.

And per manufactures specification.

 

I think it depends on whether the microwave is a model that requires a hardwired connection or not. Just because an applicance will be 'built-in' doesn't mean it will be hardwired.

If memory serves me correctly, this is a Frigidaire model, and it installs on rails that allow it to be slid out like the drawer in a counter. It also plugs in like a regular appliance.

As such, I'm with Petey on this. A 20amp dedicated branch circuit would be required here.

Regards,

Savant

 

Your quote:
My quote:
How did this not address the question of a built in unit? You specifically stated that a micro is required to be on a 15 amp circuit. You did not specify a built in unit or counter top.
I was wondering what in section of the code your rule about a microwave is located. Funny, I have never ever seen the word microwave oven in the code book.

 

I would refer you both to the PDF information provided for these appliances.
1) These appliances are not used in a "commercial" application for this thread and therefore will probably not be converted to hardwired.
2) The "rails" included in the installation kit, are actually mounting brackets intended to elevate the unit, and the "specific" cabinet cavity dimensions are to ensure that the appliance is efficiently "vented" within the cabinet. Not so that this appliance can be pulled out for use.
3) I agreed with the requirement for the "kitchen branch circuit", however, this appliance is intended to be built in, therefore, stand alone, requiring it (in most municipalities) to be on a "separate" circuit. The PDF information for this appliance recommends that this appliance be provided with a "separate" 15 amp or greater circuit. Which I had stated.

 

Sorry. I read: Which is what I commented on.

Not: which was posted after the fact and is specific to this appliance.

I did not look at the PDF since I would not consider to put a residential 120 volt micro on a 15 amp circuit regardlessof the draw. The only way I would consider it is if the instructions specifically say to.

 

It always helps to be on the same page.

Several inspectors from several different municipalities have expressed a concern regarding the prevalence of aging built-in MW previously "protected" at 20amp. It seems that those ovens, with operating currents well below 20 amps, are continuing to operate in an "over current" and failing, catastrophically in some cases, with-in the cabinet.

You may arbitrarily wire and protect at 20amp.

I on the other hand, will wire with #12, I will always protect at the manufactures specifications, for the safety of the client, first.

I've yet to lose that argument.

Keep up the good work, the price is right.