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update on install 220v plug and electric oven, need advice

update on install 220v plug and electric oven, need advice

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  #1  
Old 12-19-04, 10:21 AM
chowyunfat2000
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update on install 220v plug and electric oven, need advice

hi,

so i managed to get the plug installed correctly,
I turn the fuse on and measure the volts and I
am only getting a 110 reading.

I check to make sure everything is secure, than still 110.

I then go back to the fuse box, turn it off then turn it back on again,
go up and now it reads 220v.

PLug in the stove and everything works.

Should I be worried that is wasnt not 220v from the begining?

I figured if the fuse was not turned on correctly, I would not get
any reading of volts from the plug, but I got 110.

Also, do you think it could possible drop to 110 from the 220?

I am wondering this because the reason I replaced the old oven was from time to time the heating element would not heat up and eventually it would not heat up at all. I thought it was the oven becuase it was 30 years old, but now im wondering if it was the wiring.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Arthur
 
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  #2  
Old 12-19-04, 12:17 PM
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Is it a *fuse* box, or a *breaker* box? (Fuses screw in like light bulbs, breakers are switches).

From what you say, it sounds like breakers. And it sounds like you may have a bad breaker. If flipping the breaker off and on takes you from 110V to 220V across the same wires with no other changes, I would think the breaker is sometimes just partly working (ie, one leg of it is sending power, but the other not, hence 110V instead of 220V).

Of course, I'm not an electrician, but I play one in my house. I'm sure the electricians he will confirm/debunk what I said.

Out of curiosity, whats the brand of the fuse/breaker box?
 
  #3  
Old 12-19-04, 03:37 PM
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How did you measure voltage?

On a 240 circuit, you should measure 120 volts between each conductor and ground. Between the two conductors you should measure 240 volts.
 
  #4  
Old 12-19-04, 05:15 PM
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And if 1 of the 2 beakers was open you would get 0 volts between the hots not 120.
 
  #5  
Old 12-19-04, 08:22 PM
chowyunfat2000
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Hi,

I meant breaker box

The brand of the box a federal pacific brand breaker, split buss type service panal.

I measure the volts as you mentioned, it was a 3 prong plug. I put the device in the left and right and did not get any reading, then I put it on the left and middle and got 120.

went back down turned it on and off, then did the same thing and I got 220 when i measure the left and the right and now the oven is working.

So do you think a bad break would suddenly drop the voltage to 120 without me touching the box?

Thanks,
arthur
 
  #6  
Old 12-19-04, 08:47 PM
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Its sounds like a bad breaker,I would repalce it ASAP. Federal breakers are notorious for problems,thats why theyre not around anymore.
 
  #7  
Old 12-20-04, 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by chowyunfat2000
Hi,

I meant breaker box

The brand of the box a federal pacific brand breaker, split buss type service panal.

So do you think a bad break would suddenly drop the voltage to 120 without me touching the box?

Thanks,
arthur

I suspected it was Federal Pacific, that's why I asked.

It certainly sounds like this breaker is bad. Apparently, one half of it "comes and goes", or it is tripping one busses connection without tripping the whole breaker. Any way you look at it, its a bad thing.

Ask the electricians on this site their opinion of Federal Pacific, and you probably won't hear anything nice. Their 220V breakers are notorious for not tripping when they should trip (ie, 40amps being pulled through a 30amp breaker and the breaker not tripping).

See http://www.inspect-ny.com/fpe/fpepanel.htm for info about problems with FPE boxes.

The breaker needs replaced. Bad news is that there's a good chance the old stove did NOT and, if the stove WAS bad, its possible this garbage breaker is the reason it went bad.

Unfortunately, even if you can *find* a replacement breaker, you still have the hazard mentioned above.

Best advise, especially since you *are* having problems, is to replace the whole box with a Square D or some other *reputable* brand. This is a potentially expensive endeaver as you'll probably want an electrician to do it for you (too complex and time consuming for the average DIYer, and too much risk if you goof it up). When considering the expense, remember: had it already been done, you may not have bought a new stove.
 
  #8  
Old 12-21-04, 10:47 PM
chowyunfat2000
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Unhappy

well the oven went off again, so I guess the breaker is at fault.

can someone give me a ball park estimate on how much it would cost to replace the entire box to a better one?

guess i will just keeping flipping it on and off till i get it fixed

Thanks,
arthur
 
  #9  
Old 12-22-04, 11:15 AM
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What is the amp rating of the faulty(?) breaker?
 
  #10  
Old 12-22-04, 06:58 PM
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Just as an example a 200 amp aerial service {aerial= servicecable runs down the outside of the house} will cost you between $1300 & $1500 in my area.
 
  #11  
Old 12-23-04, 05:55 PM
chowyunfat2000
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the amp raiting of the faulty break is 50 amps.

thanks for the estimate, that is a lot of money
 
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