I need help rewiring my 220 motor to 110!


Old 01-13-05, 08:39 PM
Silas Smith
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I need help rewiring my 220 motor to 110!

This is a shot in the dark, but one of my buddies at the woodworking forum suggested I post my question here. I recently bought a new joiner, but it came wired for 220V. The motor can be rewired for 115 with a 16.4 amp draw. I am assuming that as long as I have a 20 amp breaker on an outlet, this would be fine for 110?

I need some help re-wiring the motor to 110V, something I have never done. The motor says for low voltage, line 1 is Blue, Red, and Orange. Line 2 is Black, White and Yellow. I am assuming that low voltage is 110V?

For High voltage the motor says line 1 is Blue and Red. Orange, Black and White are insulate. Yellow is line 2.

My problem is that looking at how it's wired, that makes no sense to me. I would expect to see the grouping match up with the low or high voltage but the appear to be completely different.

My current wiring is as follows: the yellow and white are together in one group, two blacks and a blue on another, and red, orange and white in the final group.

If anyone can figure this out, you are the smartest person in the world and I would be eternally grateful.

One last question, going from 220 to 110, is there anyway I can screw this up and burn up the motor?
Any help would be greatly appreciated, I can't wait to fire this up!
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Old 01-13-05, 09:21 PM
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Bella Vista, AR
Posts: 57

First, if your motor is drawing 16.4 amps, you are getting close to the limit in which you may want to change out to a 30 amp breaker... this also means you will need #10 wire ran from the panel to the plug. You may be able to use a 20 amp breaker, however depending on how long it takes to start up, you could very well blow the breaker because motors draw much more power starting up than when they are running.

As for how your explaining the motor hookup... I don't exactly understand what you mean by group. When you open up the electrical box on the side of the motor where the cord comes out of, is that where you are seeing all these wires or what? Without a more detailed explanation, I cannot tell you what is going on because I am not for sure. Maybe you could get a picture of it and post it on here.

In allot of motors, there will usually be a black and white wire, in the most basic setups. The white wire is common, meaning it is a neutral in 120v but another hot wire in 240v What it sounds like to me is you have wires in there for other things also, maybe a thermal switch, saftey shut off switches etc. that all tie into the power allowing it to shut the motor off automatically for various saftey related reasons.

Try to provide us with some more information if possible.

Oh and for your last question, as for damaging the motor... as long as it is hooked up properly AND the motor says it can run on 110 or 220 you should be fine. Oh yeah, also allot of small motors like the ones on air compressors have a toggle switch that allows you to be able to change from 110/220 pretty easily. See if there is one on there, if there is.... you may be able to just change the plug on the end of the cord and be all set.
Old 01-13-05, 10:09 PM
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 1,210
"Low voltage" is an odd way to say 110v. Maybe the manufacturer couldn't decide on 110, 115, or 120 (all interchangable). Anyway, you can safely assume this motor will happily take your 110 as its "low voltage". So follow the instructions, and know you're lucky this motor has wiring instructions.

Better to run it at 220 though. The cables and cords are smaller, for one thing. Any room in your panel for a 15 amp 220 volt breaker?

EDIT: You might want to check any cords or switches that came with this motor - if they're just chunky enough for 220 they may cook at 110 (double the amps through one conductor).
Old 01-14-05, 07:39 AM
Silas Smith
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pictures of my problem

I am not able to post attachments on this page. I have included a web link with the motor that I am talking about. When I said that the wires were in three groups, I meant that the wires are connected with wire nut. I really wish I knew a bit more about electricity, at least I know how to cut a perfect dovtail joint Here is a link so that anyone still willing to help me can check it out for themselves.


I also had a question about the possibility of running an extension cord from my dryer outlet. What would I need for that, matching male and female ends and a extention cord. Is there a certain guage I need to run 8.2 amps at 220?
Old 01-14-05, 08:39 AM
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,915
I would keep the motor at 220V. It will be more efficient and probably last longer at that voltage.

You don't want to use an extension cord for an electric dryer. Extend the circuit to the new location of the dryer.
Old 01-14-05, 06:08 PM
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Bella Vista, AR
Posts: 57
It seems everyone is in agreement that it would be best to run on 220v... I took a look at the pictures and it looks to me that the 2 blacks and a blue are on hot leg and the orange, red and white are another hot leg. I don't understand why there is an orange in there... wierd internal wiring without seeing a wiring diagram. I do however still hold to my suggestion that 220v would be best. Another user in this forum and the woodworking forum said it would run more efficient... and that also is true. As for getting power there, where is the panel in your house located? If it is in your garage, it may be fairly easy to add the plug yourself if you feel comfortable doing so.

If not, contact a licensed electrician and see if they can get you hooked up. If you need suggestions and do want to do it yourself, contact you local city inspector, they will usually come out and offer suggestions for free.

Best of luck, sorry your having so much trouble with this... almost like getting a new toy for christmas and it doesn't come with batteries, and the store is closed. Anyways, post back and tell us how it turns out.

Old 01-15-05, 03:31 AM
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 1,210

110 volts, 20 amps:
(blue, red, and orange) -> black wire,
(black, white and yellow) -> white wire,
(screw in the wire-box) -> bare copper or green.

Or heed the chorus and run a subpanel to my garage.

Really, I'm just now in the process of wiring a garage subpanel because I got a tablesaw with 18amp @ 110v motor. I got rid of the old one before I knew my power was inadequate.

EDIT: Oh, if the motor is 16.4 amp then 20 amp wiring (#12 normally) may not be good enough, if the run is long. Like over 100'. Even if it does manage on a long #12 cord you'll get more pep and tenacity feeding it with #10.
Old 01-15-05, 07:02 AM
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,219

The box that you are looking at includes both the motor wires (Blue, Red, Black, Orange, White, Yellow) and the supply wires (thicker, Black, White). That is why the box has 8 wires when your wiring diagram only describes 6.

Can you add a picture of the wiring diagram for the motor? It is also important to know the horsepower rating of the motor, and what (if any) sort of power cord came on the jointer.

I believe that you will find that for the high voltage connection, the wiring diagram says that Black, Orange, and White are supposed to be _joined_ together, but not connected to anything else. I believe that you will also find an instruction that says something like 'to reverse the direction of the motor, swap the red and black wires'

I concur with the suggestion that you stick with the 220V configuration, and get an electrician to put in a 220V receptacle.

Old 01-15-05, 07:16 AM
GTBaker's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Newfoundland
Posts: 81
Just relay to us what it says on the Info plate.

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