Hello gain all-

I had a 220v outlet installed by an electrician...after 1 week of waiting for the correct circuit breaker...Hooked up my washer/dryer....washed clothes....and when I tried drying the clothes, it ran for a minute and tripped my breaker. reset breaker and ran dryer again..ran for a minute again and same thing happened. Reset again but this time, the dryer just humms. This is brand new washer/dryer. Ran it for the first time yesterday. Called the electrician and he told me all is good as far as the wiring. Maybe someone can advice...this is how he hooked it up

BREAKER NEMA 14-30r

- red------------------------left side
-black-----------------------right side
-white-----------------------bottom right
-ground----------------------bottom left

I guess what I'm asking is ....what is the correct wiring for this outlet. I would hate to texchange the washer/dryer and have the same thing happen.
Please help.....

 

The 14-30R has four connections. They are labeled X, Y, W and G. The G (the D-shaped hole) is ground of course. The X and Y (the vertical slots on each side) are the two hots and get connected to the red and black. The W (the L-shaped slot) is the neutral and gets connected to the white.

Is this connected to a 30-amp double-pole 240-volt breaker? Is the wire 10/3 with ground?

Can you give us the make and model of both the washer and dryer? Is it a 240-volt washing machine, or a 120-volt washing machine? Do the two run off the same circuit?

 

What's the size of the breakers your tripping ? as john asked.
What's the power requirements of the dryer, from the name plate on the dryer volts, watts, amps ?
Don't let it hum that may or may not burn-up the motor.

 

30 amp double pole = yes
10-3 w/ ground wire = yes
Washer/dryer is a Frigidaire model # GLET1142cso
washer dryer runs off the same circuit which is 240 volt

hope I answered the questions...and any advice would help. Just hate to return the unit and have the same thing happen. So I want to make sure that it isn't the new 220v wiring.

 

So this is a pure 240-volt appliance. I'm surprised it recommends a 14-30R receptacle. Can you verify? How did you connect the cord to the appliance? Did you follow the installation instructions precisely?

 

I found the installation instructions on the web and they do indeed call for a 14-30R. So I guess that is correct.

I was confused by your use of "bottom right" and "bottom left" in the first post.

 

According to manufacturer installation instruction...
Use Nema 10-30r or Nema 14-30r

I connected it like this.. the cord has 4 wires.
1-black
1-rd
1-white
1-green

I removed the ground from the washer/dryer and attached it together with the white. I attached the green wire to where the washer/dryer's original ground wire was attched and connected the red and black as the installation instruction.
Could it be that I just got a BAD washer/dryer?

 

Well, everything you've said so far sounds good. It's possible that you didn't make good connections at the receptacle. Shut off the breaker and pull the receptacle out of the box. Do the connections still look excellent with no signs of burning or melting of insulation?

Who made the connections to the breaker in the panel?

 

Does the Dryer use Gas or is it 100% elect ?

 

I paid an electrician to hook everything up for me since I did'nt want to tackle the job myself. So I decided to leave to the pros.
I checked the outlet and it looks good. But when I called the electrician yesterday... he came out again and somewhat implied that the breakers may not have been seated properly and so he changed the position of the circuit breaker.
Could have been it? Just to remind...I did get to wash clothes. thanks again!!

 

But the dryer still doesn't work?

 

Nope...now all it does is humm.

 

washer works alright except for the dryer.

 

Do you have a voltmeter or a multimeter? Or maybe a neon circuit tester? Anything?

 

The only thing I have is that little thing with a light a 2 prongs to check if there is power on the outlet. (Hahahahahahahahaha) Poor me. But that question made me laugh since I've been meaning to buy a tester. What would be good to get?

 

are the cord connections at the dryer made correctly? Also, could the dryer be defective?

 

Well, that is just the thing. Washer/dryer is brand new. First time to use it yesterday. I followed the wiring diagram as per Installation manual. But since the 220v wiring is also brand new....I want to able to identify what went wrong. If the 220v wiring made the dryer bad....then I can call the electrician again. If it is a case of just a bad washer/dryer unit then I can return it and get it replaced. What I am trying to avoid is to get a new unit and the same thing happens which would mean that it could be the wiring.

 

It appears the washer uses one side of the line. thats why the washer works
Try resetting the breakers again.
off then back on.

ftp://ftp.electrolux-na.com/ProdInfo...er/1342177.pdf

 

Have you measured the voltage to see if you really and truly have 240 volts?

 

Hey now...found this site where the guy says to hold the door switch, turn on the dryer and manually turn the drum. It worked. the dryer turned by itself and ran. I only ran it for about 10 seconds but it did not trip the breaker. I tried turning it on again by itself and it just humms again. The thing is he mentioned that the motor maybe BAD. Maybe I should head back to lowes and get an exchange.

I appreciate anymore ideas.....

 

Should I run it longer to see if it trips the breaker?

 

If you have verified proper wiring, then you have determined that it is not a power issue. Why are you reluctant to have the unit replaced?

 

Sounds like a defective appliance. Time to use your warranty.

 

I don't see where the OP has confirmed the voltage yet. Could this be an FPE/GE dilema where the two pole breaker was put across the same leg in the panel?

 

Sorry for my ignorance but

OP?? FPE/GE???

 

OP - original poster (that's you). You haven't verified the voltage, or at least you haven't told us you did.

FPE/GE - makes of circuit breaker panels. Some panels allow for breakers to be mis-installed, sot that they don't provide 240 volts between the two hot wires.

 

The symptoms are indicating that the start winding or centifugal start switch in the motor is bad. Once the motor is up to speed the start winding is not required and it runs properly.
It is possible the breaker was not originally isntalled properly? In some panels it is possible to install a 240 breaker so that both side are on the same leg. This would give 120 to ground from each leg but 0 volts from leg to leg. I wonder if this could have been the problem and fisrt test blew out the motor. I would not relate this info to the supplier if you want to try for a warranty repair.

 

Even though voltage problems are common on dryers, the symptoms of this case don't seem consistent with a voltage problem. Are you guys speculating that the drum motor might be a 240-volt motor? It's not usually, but maybe it is on this one.

In any event, you can test this with your simple neon tester. You have four holes in your receptacle (X, Y, W, G). Stick the two probes of your tester (carefully!) in each pair of holes, one at a time. Tell us what lights the tester and what doesn't. You'll conduct six tests in all (X-Y, X-W, X-G, Y-W, Y-G, W-G). We'll be able to figure it out from these results.

 

Update.....
-Had the electrician come out and check the output. He says line OK.
-Had washer/dryer manufacturer technician come out and he check the wiring and said OK. Found out that the motor needs replacing. I told him not to bother and that I was gonna get a replacement at lowe's being unit is brand new and should not break that fast.
-Got a new unit delivered today....... Washed and it works. Tried the dryer and it did the same thing. Dryer ran for a couple of minutes and stopped. Now the dryer don't even humm or anything. It is totally dead. Could it be the wiring...the breaker????
Please help being I am ready to give up. Thanks in advance...

 

It's hard, sight unseen, for any of us to do better than having both an electrician and the manufacturer's technician on site. Perhaps the dryer motor is getting 240 volts somehow when it runs on 120. But since the electrician said that the circuit is fine, this doesn't seem possible. I assume you can replace this under the manufacturer's warranty, so get a third one. Make sure you connect the cord to the appliance correctly. Consider having the manufacturer's technician do the installation. And have him stick around while you dry a load of wet towels.