I'm remodeling my kitchen and noticed that all the wiring is aluminum. It's all in excellent condition. For the most part, access to the wiring is pretty easy too as my cabinets have been removed. Is aluminum wiring that bad that it should be replaced even if it's still in good condition? Is the reason you replace it because it gets too hot, even for the insulation?

Assuming I replace the wire back to the box, is there an extra safe way to attach the wiring to the breakers. Can you work in the box safely just by turning off the main breaker? It seems like there could still be some live wires going into the main and that scares me!

Thanks for helping a newbie.

 

Aluminum wiring is safe provided that it is properly installed and that it is inspected on a regular basis, such as every six months or perhaps yearly. With a kitchen I would go with every six months.

The problem with aluminum wiring is that many people don't know what properly installed means, and don;t bother to find out. They also don;t know how to inspect the wiring and/or won't pay someone to come in that often and inspect it for them.


If I had aluminum wiring I would not rush right to the job of replacing it. But I would replace it if I were remodeling.

In your case I would redo the kitchen wiring. You probably have other code issues with the kitchen wiring to address anyway, so you might as well eliminate the aluminum wiring while you are addressing those code issues.

The safest way to work in the main panel is with the power shut off before the panel. However this is usually not possible. If you turn the main breaker off you eliminate much of the concern. However, you still need to be careful as there is still power in the panel and it can kill you. Go slow and never jam or pull on anything.

 

racraft, you are right. I wouldn't know what to look for and having an expert come in regularly probably isn't feasible. I'll probably go ahead and replace it since it looks like all the kitchen wiring (except for the microwave and stove) goes to one junction box in the basement. The single wire going from the panel to the junction box is some type of x-3 and it looks to have been updated with copper so maybe I don't have to touch the panel at all!

You mentioned other kitchen code issues. From what I've learned so far some of the biggies are outlets every so many feet of counter, protective dishwasher and disposal wiring, GFCI's (already done). What would be your top 3 code issues in the kitchen?

Thanks for your help so far.

 

From a safety standpoint, GFCI protection and properly spaces receptacles are what I would call the most important. GFCI protection for obvious reasons and proper spacing because it helps to eliminate cords stretched too far and the use of extension cords.

The other important requirements is that the counter top area be served by two different 20 amp circuits. 20 amp circuits reduces the chance of an overload, as does having two circuits.

If you want to use the existing wiring from the panel to this junction box it must be copper and it must be 12 gauge. If it is three conductor (plus ground) then it is a multi wire circuit. It should be protected by two 120 volt breakers that are connected to opposite sides of the incoming 240 volts (not necessarily opposite sides of the panel). It can also be protected by a single 240 volt breaker. Please be careful. Multi wire circuits are tricky.

I suggest that you alternate the two circuits, making adjacent receptacles on different circuits.

Place the refrigerator, the dishwasher and the disposal on individual 20 amp circuits. Do likewise if you have a built in microwave hood. These devices do not need GFCI protection.

 

racraft, I'm intrigured by your alternating circuit comment...

Using two separate 20A breakers at the box, could a single #12 3-conductor wire be run to the kitchen, snaking through *all* of the receptacles? So, the first receptacle would get the GFCI with black/white/gnd wires and second another GFCI with red/ white/gnd wires and so on...

 

karen_z, you can snake the 12-3 wire through all the receptacles, but you would have to use a GFCI at each receptacle, and only connect to the line side of the GFCI receptacles. If you used the load side of the receptacles then the GFCI would see an imbalance and trip.

We are talking here about a multi wire circuit. Multi wire circuits have their place. However, they are not for beginners. If implemented wrong they pose a fire hazard.

 

Ahhh...the old load-imbalance-causing-the-GFCI-to-trip trick... 2 separate wires it is...

Thanks, chief.

 

One thing to remember here. Since a kitchen is required to be served by two 20 amp receptacle circuits, your #12 aluminum will not do. It is rated 15 amps. (Aluminum is always a larger gauge than copper for the same amperage.) Since you are updating your kitchen wiring, it must be brought up to today's code - the two 20 amp recep circuits, and therefore the wiring should be replaced with 12/2 copper.

Juice