Pulling power from a light fixture?
#1
04-23-05, 06:01 PM
Pulling power from a light fixture?
Hi... any help would be great.
Last year I installed 6 recessed lights in my living room, I would like to take power from that circuit to install recessed lights in my kitchen. But I don't want them switched by the livingroom switch. I want them to be on a different switch because it is another room.
Where and how should I make the connection?
Should it be at the end of the run in the attic? At the switch? or at a junction box in the basement?
How would I connect it since I want it switched? and I don't want to living room dimmer to control the kitchen lights?
Last year I installed 6 recessed lights in my living room, I would like to take power from that circuit to install recessed lights in my kitchen. But I don't want them switched by the livingroom switch. I want them to be on a different switch because it is another room.
Where and how should I make the connection?
Should it be at the end of the run in the attic? At the switch? or at a junction box in the basement?
How would I connect it since I want it switched? and I don't want to living room dimmer to control the kitchen lights?
#3
04-23-05, 11:55 PM
Where to make the connection depends on how you wired the first circuit. Where do you have unswitched power? If you have unswitched power at the switch then you might connect there. If you only have a switch loop at the switch then you cannot connect there.
#4
04-24-05, 01:46 PM
Originally Posted by Snoonyb
You join at the "J" box, however, what is the breaker size and the wire size and the wattage of the lamps on the existing fixtures.
With 20 amp I should have enough watts ... with only 400 being used at one time. Would like to add about 500 more watts to it. ??
#5
04-24-05, 01:53 PM
Originally Posted by racraft
Where to make the connection depends on how you wired the first circuit. Where do you have unswitched power? If you have unswitched power at the switch then you might connect there. If you only have a switch loop at the switch then you cannot connect there.
2-50 watt wall washers then 4-75 watt recessed cans.
Not sure what a switch loop is. but I believe that my only unswitched power is in the wall from the switch to the basement and to the box.
So I'll probably have to connect there at that box right?
Thanks for the help.
#6
04-24-05, 02:36 PM
The switch loop is those items switched.
Depending upon the proximaty of the existing switch and the proposed switch, you can continue the hot pair to the new switch. If that is the lesser route and the existing switch box is large enough to accomadate the extra conductors.
Use a metal box when dimmers are contemplated, they aide in heat disipation.
Depending upon the proximaty of the existing switch and the proposed switch, you can continue the hot pair to the new switch. If that is the lesser route and the existing switch box is large enough to accomadate the extra conductors.
Use a metal box when dimmers are contemplated, they aide in heat disipation.
#7
04-24-05, 03:01 PM
Originally Posted by Snoonyb
The switch loop is those items switched.
Depending upon the proximaty of the existing switch and the proposed switch, you can continue the hot pair to the new switch. If that is the lesser route and the existing switch box is large enough to accomadate the extra conductors.
Use a metal box when dimmers are contemplated, they aide in heat disipation.
Depending upon the proximaty of the existing switch and the proposed switch, you can continue the hot pair to the new switch. If that is the lesser route and the existing switch box is large enough to accomadate the extra conductors.
Use a metal box when dimmers are contemplated, they aide in heat disipation.
#8
04-24-05, 03:22 PM
A switch loop is a single cable that goes from the the device to be switched to the switch. A switch loop contains no neutral.
You do not have a switch loop. You have power going to the switch, and then switched power going to the lights. You must connect at the switch in order to get unswitched power for your new lights.
Not related to your question, but I think you may be mistaking 12-2 with ground for 12-3. 12-3 cable has three shielded conductors and one ground. 12-2 has two shielded conductors and one ground.
You do not have a switch loop. You have power going to the switch, and then switched power going to the lights. You must connect at the switch in order to get unswitched power for your new lights.
Not related to your question, but I think you may be mistaking 12-2 with ground for 12-3. 12-3 cable has three shielded conductors and one ground. 12-2 has two shielded conductors and one ground.
