Splice a 220 line?


Old 05-16-05, 09:28 PM
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 9
Splice a 220 line?

HI, my son bought his first house (50 year old house- he said that's old- I said I'm 54- shut up ) - and wanted to move the 220 line for the range across the kitchen.

I looked in the main panel (no main shut off) and decided I wanted no part of removing the 220 line to replace the entire line (too close to the main power lines). So we decided to move the old line as little as possible and splice on another 15 feet.

So we did- felt weird to use twist on caps an #6 wire for a 50 amp range but the guy at Home depot said no problem. System works- but is it safe? (encased in 4x4 steel box.)

Also, my son, bless his pointy head- decided he wannted the outlet in the wall not on the floor! OoooooKKKK.

so we cut the drywall, mounted a 4x4 box and ran in the 220 cable. Well it took two hours to try to get the outlet wired and get the outlet and wires in the box.

just didn't fit, #6 wired don't bend well. We asked if there was a deeper box but the guy at HOme Depot said this was the box to use.

Fit is very tight and we the plate is bulged out from the pressure of the wires. Is there a trick to this? do we need to replace this installation?

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Old 05-16-05, 09:53 PM
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: United States
Posts: 18,497
Sorry, but this solution is unacceptable. As a compromise to save wire during WWII, code allowed one wire to serve as both neutral and ground for ranges and clothes dryers. This compromise introduced extra danger, because if the neutral/ground would ever become disconnected, the chassis of the range could electrocute you. The compromise was not removed from the code untli 1996 (should have been removed much earlier). The code committee would really like to see everybody upgrade their range circuit from a 3-wire circuit to a 4-wire circuit, but realizes that such a requirement would be an undue hardship in many homes. So they only require the upgrade if you make any changes to the circuit, such as you are doing. Splices in a circuit are weak points. If the neutral splice you make to add on the extra 15 feet should ever fail, the range might electrocute somebody. So don't do it. If you are going to move the range, replace the cable all the way back to the panel, no matter how hard you currently think it is to do so. It's worth it not only to comply with code, but for your own peace of mind.
Old 05-16-05, 10:07 PM
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 52
In theory a twist on cap would work because the wires are making contact and as long as the cap is big enough. However I can't say I recall seeing wire nuts that big. Ususally you woudl use a collar with a screw. You feed one wire from one side, the other from the other direction, and tighten the side screw, then tape. However replacing the whole wre is by far the best way to go. The collar is kind of a last resort for when you absolutly cannot change the whole wire.

As for the second question about not enough room in the box - You can buy a box that is the same size as a sigle outlet box, but it is designed to allow another box (or in this case the outlet) to mount on the front of it - this would give you more room.

From what you have described I would not trust what the guy at Home Depot has told you. If you notice on the apron it will say "I help in all departments" What this trnaslates into is a guy that knows plumbing like the back of his hand giving electrical advice.
Old 05-17-05, 09:55 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Near Lansing, Michigan
Posts: 10,537
Get a 4x4x2.5" inch square steel box (screws in the corners) and then put a 2.5" box extender on. That should give you plenty of room at the receptacle.

I agree that you should replace the old range cable as well if it is only 3-wire.
Old 05-17-05, 02:41 PM
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: port chester n y
Posts: 2,117
Because this is an "existing" Branch-Circuit, in it my opinion that the "exception" which permits using the Grounded Circuit Conductor ( Neutral/ White-wire) to Ground the frame of the range would apply to your situation.

You need a 4-11/16" outlet-box (O-B) with a depth of 2-1/2", readily available at stores that specialize in electrical-supply products.Also a 4-11/16" "rough-cover" with taps for the device-screws that fasten the receptacle to the O-B.The

Good Luck & Enjoy the Experience!!!!!!!!!!!1
Old 05-18-05, 09:09 PM
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 9
thanks for the feedback

love this forum and thanks to you for voluntering your time and expertise.

The comment about the possiblity of the neutral coming loose and causing an electrocution hazard reallly spooks me.

I am confused about one thing, on my electric stove the plug has three prongs- no ground. so isn't this a problem on any electric stove?

Old 05-19-05, 09:11 AM
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: United States
Posts: 18,497
The cord and plug is installed to match the branch circuit. If you had a 4-wire branch circuit, you would change the cord and plug on your range to separate ground and neutral. This would remove the connection between the range neutral and the range chassis that currently exists.

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