New Receptacle for oven


Old 06-02-05, 10:18 PM
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New Receptacle for oven

I'm trying to replace the receptacle for my oven (after my contractor bailed on me after removing the last one and not marking the wires). I assumed it was a 3 wire until I looked and noticed a 4th wire that was not connected to the previous receptacle. I assume that I need to replace it with a 4 wire receptacle, but I can't tell which wires are which (the three that were used before are not color coded...although one seems to have a faint red mark on it). I have checked, and know that only 2 of the 3 originally used wires are hot, but can't tell which is black, which is red/white. Is there a way to check which wire is which (or can I safely assume that the faint red line is an indication of the red/white wire?). The fourth wire that was hidden is not insulated, is this the ground or neutral?
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Old 06-03-05, 05:55 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Harrisonburg
Posts: 744

If I were you I would not assume anything when dealing with larger voltage and shock potential so here is what I would suggest.

You need to view your panel and look to see the possible connections into the panel and try to view this end of the supply line to the range in question.

Now depending on the age of the wire installed which from what you say is probably quite old since you can't see the colors on the wire any longer but you can only assume it is a 3 wire set up until you actually look into this furthur by viewing the connections in the panel.

Now...if you have a Volt Meter you can find the two HOT lines which should give you 240V ( Nominal ) from the probes touching (2) two of the 3 lines.....if you touch (1) one of the hots to one of the other lines and it happens to NOT be the other HOT line you will only get 120V( Nominal ) so you just have to do a process of elimination.....BECAREFUL.....these are hot lines and you need to show extreme caution.

The easy thing would be to rip you and say replace the line and blah...blah..blah...but I am a realist and you need to get it fixed so this is why I am posting for you.

To bring the plug up to CODE you would need a 4 wire setup and recept. but again you have to work with what you have.....DO NOT assume the 4th wire is a ground unless you can 100% guarantee it by viewing the start at the circuit in the panel and identify where that wire on the front end is terminated and if used at all.....To me it would be safer to replace with a 3 wire recept than to assume a ground and connect a 4 wire you case since you are not upgrading it....just replacing it.

If you do not feel comfortable working in the panel then by all means do not...I think most people have common sense so remember it is dangerous to do so and always be aware of what you are doing....the key here is to VIEW the identical wires from you plug to the wires in the panel and I will guess you know which are the wires because you stated you knew 2 of the 3 were hot so you know which breaker it is....

Also...just in case....due to the nature of how the plugs are usually you have (2) hots that are slightly longer than the neutral/ground in the old 3 wire usually 2 of the 3 wires are longer...only about 1/2 inch but are longer.

Their are other ways to determine this also.......I am sure others will chime in on it..
Old 06-03-05, 01:28 PM
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: welland ontario
Posts: 5,667
Since you have determined which two wires are hot you are ready to connect up the receptacle. I am going to assume one of the wires is bare.
The bare wire is the ground. It connects to the green screw.
The two hot wires connect to the X and Y screws. It doesn't matter which way.
The white wire (non bare zero volt wire)connects to the W screw.

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