How do I run power to my pool motor?


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Old 06-30-05, 11:38 AM
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Question How do I run power to my pool motor?

I need to run power to my above ground pool's pump motor (1.5hp). I won't need anythinge else out there. It's FAR from the house. About 200'.

Now, I already have power run in two places from the old pool and cabana. It's about 100', or half way. One if live, one's not. I'll check into that.

But either way, I just want one 20A circuit in 12/2 wire. I was going to use underground, burial rated romex without a plastic conduit.

In NY (Long Island), how deep must this be burried?

Does this long of a run require thicker wire than 12/2?

What else do I need to know?

Thanks in advance for your help.

PS I've very handy and capable of doing wiring, but not that familiar with the codes.
 
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Old 06-30-05, 12:05 PM
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I'm sure I'll forget something, but here goes...

The run to a pool pump must be done in conduit by code. The wire must be individual conductor THWN with an insulated, green ground wire (not bare). The pump must be on a GFCI breaker (or GFCI disconnect at the pump). If the breaker is in the house, the conduit must be 12" deep to the top of the pipe. The pump must have a disconnect if it is hard-wired. A cord/plug/and weatherproof enclosure can be the disconnect if not hard-wired. If the pump is within 5 or 10' (I don't recall) of the pool rim, the plug must be twist-lock type.

Over that distance, I would upsize the conductors to #10. The pool pump will run almost constantly and the upsized conductors will pay themselves back by reducing voltage drop. Voltage drop wastes energy that you pay for.
 
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Old 06-30-05, 04:39 PM
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Pools seem simple enough, but over the years (and for good reason) the codes have become more stringent. I suggest you read through the link below to get a better idea of what you need to do.
Above ground pools
 
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Old 06-30-05, 06:20 PM
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The conduit must be 24 inches deep.

At that distance I would use at least 10 gage wire.

The pump must have a twist lock connector if the connection is within ten feet of the pool. The connection cannot be closer than five feet from the pool.

You must have a receptacle on a separate circuit that is at least ten feet from the pool, but not more than 20 feet from the pool.

The pool and any other metal (ladders, fence) near the pool must be bonded to the pump using 8 gage copper wire.
 
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Old 07-07-05, 08:53 AM
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thanks so much. I didn't get the auto replies, so I dind't reallize anyone replied to me! THANKS!

Just to confirm: I must use plastic conduit at 24"? Can't just drop UF at 24"?

It appears that I have all this going about 2/3 of the way out my yard. There used to be an inground pool at my house prior to my owning the place, and it was all professionally wired it. I checked, and there are separate wires (10 gauge I think) plus a separate insulated ground.

So I guess I just have to continue what I have another 50' or so, right?

Great link, by the way (http://www.selfhelpandmore.com/homew...bove/index.htm). I'll read it and post back if I Have questions.

Thanks again!!!!!
 
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Old 07-07-05, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by AdamIsAdam
Just to confirm: I must use plastic conduit at 24"? Can't just drop UF at 24"?
PVC is cheapest and doesn't need rust protection, but you must use some conduit. UF is not allowed, it must be individual conductors. When using PVC, fully assemble and glue the conduit run before putting any wires in. Let it dry overnight. Uncured PVC cement will ruin THWN!

It appears that I have all this going about 2/3 of the way out my yard. There used to be an inground pool at my house prior to my owning the place, and it was all professionally wired it. I checked, and there are separate wires (10 gauge I think) plus a separate insulated ground.

So I guess I just have to continue what I have another 50' or so, right?
Sounds like that's okay, so long as the splices and wirenuts are in a weatherproof box that is accessible above ground.
 
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Old 07-07-05, 06:20 PM
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pool wiring follow up

OK. WHEW! I just read that ENTIRE artlcle. Even the repeating parts (and it repeated itself repeadly, if you get my drift).

So now I get it. I've read it all and see my current wiring is just right - but not long enough. I have two questions.

First, let me tell you for sure what I have:

Main panel: joined, 30 amp breakers supplying 220 volts outside.
Wires: 4 wires, 10awg THWN vinyl coated I think it says, all running out via pvc under ground. (two hots, one neugral, one covered gro und).

Outside:
There's a kind of sub panel mounted to a 4x4 post. Above it is the timer. In the box are two, 20 amp breakers and one 15amp GFI. There's one plug which is dead so I assume that's part of the "dead front GFI".

there are two PVC pipes going under ground. I assume one is the power in, and one was power going out to the old pump. Since that's all gone, I'll have to determine which one is out and cut it out.

WHAT I WANT TO ACCOMPLISH:
1) 20amp 110volt GFI line to new pump.
2) power supply for underwater pool light kit
3) power for flood lights I want in the trees.

QUESTIONS (numbers below correspond to numbers above):

1) This I get. Just extend three wires (hot, neutral and ground) to the 5' mark (and install a locking water tight recepticle for the motor). This will be fed by one of the sub panel's 20 amp breakers.

2) NEED HELP HERE. Does this need to be a dedicated line or can it split off at the 10' mark to go feed my flood lights? Or does this need to be a dedicated circuit.

3) if 2 above needs a dedicated circuit, can I split off a 20 or 15 amp line to just power a set of flood lights in a near by tree (tree is far enough away)?

Thanks for your help!
 

Last edited by AdamIsAdam; 07-08-05 at 11:34 AM. Reason: clarification of questions
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Old 07-08-05, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by AdamIsAdam
1) This I get. Just extend three wires (hot, neutral and ground) to the 5' mark (and install a locking water tight recepticle for the motor). This will be fed by one of the sub panel's 20 amp breakers.
Make it 6' just to be safe. Wouldn't want the inspector to fail you because of one inch too close. The pool lights circuit you mentioned must be GFCI protected also.

2) NEED HELP HERE. Does this need to be a dedicated line or can it split off at the 10' mark to go feed my flood lights? Or does this need to be a dedicated circuit.
Must be dedicated. Absolutely nothing else on this circuit but the pump motor. The breaker must also be GFCI. You didn't mention that it was.

3) if 2 above needs a dedicated circuit, can I split off a 20 or 15 amp line to just power a set of flood lights in a near by tree (tree is far enough away)?
Not sure I follow what you're asking. You can use one of the other circuits in your box provided it wouldn't create an overload. You can share the conduit with the pump motor circuit, just none of the same wires. Direct burial type UF cable is acceptable for lights (but don't run it in conduit underground). The lights circuit only needs to be 12 inches deep if the breaker is GFCI. The cable should be protected by conduit when it leaves the ground to go up into the trees. You wouldn't want to accidentally hit it with the weed trimmer or hedge clippers, etc.
 
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Old 07-08-05, 11:35 AM
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I'm not sure of the relative locations of the loads you need to connect, but possibly you can terminate a run of 1" PVC conduit in a PVC box near the motor, say a box 8" sq., and then extend from the box to the 2 other loads which I presume are controlled seperately.You'll need 6 circuit-conductors and an Equiptment Grounding Conductor in the 1" PVC.

I suggest that ALL control-components--- switches,timers & breakers--- be located indoors, and not exposed to the weather. With the exception of the motor and liting-fixtures, all you will need exposed to the weather is a dis-connect switch for the motor which can be a simple toggle-switch in a W-P box.

Please know that the required Grounding of all metallic surfaces is another issue.

Good Luck & Enjoy the Experience!!!!!!!!
 
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Old 07-08-05, 11:38 AM
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clarification of question

I'm sorry, I wasn't clear in my question.

In my prior post, the numbered questions correspond to the numbered goal above them.

Bottom line is, since I have 4 wires going from house to sub panel (2 hot, 1 neutral, 1 ground, all shielded), how do I split this up to feed:

- pump
- pool light
- flood lights in trees

I know the pump needs a dedicated line. Does the pool light need to be on a dedicated line separate from the flood lights?

Also, since I only have one neutral wire and one ground wire coming from the house to the sub panel, can I share the neutral wire or would that make this not a dedicated line?
 

Last edited by AdamIsAdam; 07-08-05 at 11:57 AM.
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Old 07-21-05, 10:23 AM
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it's DONE!

I know you folks like feedback when work is completed, so here's mine:

I did much of the work myself, and then called in a pro/friend of mine. I was getting frustrated by not having all the right parts on hand, etc.

But in the end, what I did was this:

Mounted Outdoor Sub-panel box where old box was (about 1/2 out the yard behind a planting bed, so nice and out of the way). This takes the two 10awg lines in (30amp each on joined breakers from house), and converts to 110v going out via three GFI breakers. I burried 1" pvc all the way to 6' from pool. Inside was enough sinle strand 10awg wire for two separate lines and grounds. One for pump, one for pool light (second post 11' from pool).

Finally, I split off a second trench that stays outside of 20' from pool, and ran UF all the way to my tree, where I mounted outlets on the post and in the tree, and lights. The tree lilghts and outlet is switch controlled at the post on the ground. The tree outlet is for the bug zapper!

Anyway, the main point of my writing was to thank you all for your info. I was able to research and learn all about the proper codes for pool wiring. Doing some of the work myself defrayed much of the costs.

THANKS AGAIN!
 
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Old 07-21-05, 11:24 AM
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I have inferred from you description that the "Feeder" to the exterior Sub-panel is comprised of #10 conductors connected in "parallel".---- "2 #10 lines "in", EACH on "joined"(?) breakers."
 
 

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