240 wiring to a receptacle, stumped

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Old 07-27-05, 01:11 PM
sticky
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240 wiring to a receptacle, stumped

I am trying to wire in a range to my kitchen. The original range was hotwired in and it wasnt a problem for me to disconnect it (1964 range eep! ). The new stove has a plug and needs a receptacle. So I bought the receptacle that matched the plug pattern. My problem lies in the fact that I'm stumped by the wiring on the 240. It is black, red, and ground. The stove has black, white, and red. How do I wire this receptacle so that it matches up with the stove?
 
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Old 07-27-05, 01:56 PM
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To be code-legal, you cannot. Range wiring installed prior to 1996 no longer meets electrical code and must be upgraded when the existing built-in range is removed. The issue is that old range wiring is ungrounded and only has three conductors: two hots and a neutral (sometimes bare). The new requirement is a four conductor circuit: two insulated hots, one insulated neutral, and a ground wire.

To be legal, you must install a new 4 conductor cable (commonly 8/3 with ground NM) on a 40A breaker, a 4 slot 50A receptacle, and use a 4 prong range cord. Some large ranges require 6/3 with ground on a 50A breaker.
 
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Old 07-27-05, 02:01 PM
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First, figure out if the wire is copper or aluminum. Then figure out if the wire size is appropriate for your new range (the new range may need more power than the old one).

If all that checks out, then read the new range installation instructions. They should give two alternate sets of instructions, one for 3-wire circuits (which you have) and one for 4-wire circuits (which you don't have). The cord and plug and receptacle for the 3-wire circuit will be different than the ones you have now, so you'll need to buy a new cord and plug, and a new receptacle, and connect it as specified in the range installation instructions.

The upgrade that ibpooks refers to is not required unless you are remodeling the kitchen or moving the range to a new location. Simply replacing one range with another does not trigger this requirement. Nevertheless, if practical, now would be a good time to replace the wiring from the panel to the range with a new 4-wire cable, even if not strictly required.
 
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Old 07-27-05, 02:11 PM
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The instructions that comes with the new range will tell you what you need to do.
If your new range requires 120 volts with the 240 volts you will need to run a new line 3 wires + ground, 4 wires total.
The white neutral wire makes the 120 volts, your new range may need it for 120 volt light bulbs, or the control unit.
check the manual.

As John stated the size of the wire must be checked.
 
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Old 07-27-05, 02:37 PM
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Good points, John. I assumed that since the existing range was hard wired, replacing the range with a receptacle was a substantial alteration. Are there specific requirements that say when the circuit overhaul is required or is it a judgement call?
 
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Old 07-27-05, 02:37 PM
hth
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The stove has black, white, and red. How do I wire this receptacle so that it matches up with the stove?
In case the original poster upgrades to new 4-wire circuit, then the ground wire from the circuit is connected to where on the range?

Thanks,
 
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Old 07-27-05, 02:38 PM
sticky
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after looking at it a bunch, I am going to wire it like it is for the moment, only because this will be week 2 without a stove and eating out is expensive, this when I come back from vacation, I will redo the wiring to the stove and bring it all back up to code. For the moment though, its just going to have to suck
 
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Old 07-27-05, 02:54 PM
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For hth and Sticky if the things John mentioned check ok you will have two choices leave the existing wiring as is and change the four wire cord on the range to a 3 wire cord and purchase a 3 wire range receptacle or leave the cord that came with the range and run new four wire cable to the panel. Here is a link that explains the procedure....
http://www.american-appliance.com/se...dryer_cord.htm

The link uses a dryer for the example but this is the same for a range.
Pay particular attention to the green ground wire and the metal strap and white wire (neutral) and the difference in how they are treated from four wire to three wire.
 
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Old 07-28-05, 04:56 AM
sticky
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im thinking of just hardwiring in the stove as the last stove was in and just leave the plug receptacle out of it, i wasnt sure if the newer stoves could be hardwired but i when i read the instalation instructions it told me everything i needed to know. ( i feel like a guy when i dont read the instructions) thanks for all your help! it is much appreciated, you guys know how to make a new girl feel welcome
 
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Old 07-28-05, 07:41 AM
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Much depends on the Wiring Method used to route the Branch-Circuit Conductors from the panel to the appliance.

IF this is an "existing" Branch-Circuit, and IF the Wiring Method is type SE cable with an un-isulated Neutral Conductor and the SE cable extends from the Service-panel, and IF the bare Neutral is #10 copper or larger, then the Neutral can be used to Ground the frame of the appliance.

If this particular range requires an 60 amp 3-slot receptacle to conform to the cord-plug, then you will need an metal outlet-box, 4-11/16" X 2-1/2" deep.You will have to "bond" the metal box to the bare Neutral with a #10 Green "jumper" beween the box and the Neutral terminal on the receptacle.

IF this is a 3-wire "Line-cord" with a 3-prong cord-plug, then the range must be equipped with a internal strap that connects the range Neutral-connection to the metal frame.

Good Luck & Enjoy the Experience!!!!!!!!
 
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