Neutral bonding question

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  #1  
Old 09-06-05, 09:19 PM
lake12aj
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Neutral bonding question

I've built small new building to house my shallow well pump which will provide increased insulation etc. for my pump. I have ran a #10 UF wire to a 40 amp subpanel. With one 20 amp 240v and two 20 amp 120v breakers. The 20 amp breaker will obviously protect the pump, while the two 20a will be used for lighting and an GFI outlet.

My questions are: Should I bond the neutral to the panel enclosure using the green screw?

The subpanel does not have a separate grounding block, so should I run grounds to the neutral or buy and install a small accesory ground block?

Do I need a ground rod driven next to the building or should use the ground from the main panel (via the UF)...the subpanel is 100+ feet away from the main panel

Thanks in advance!!
 
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  #2  
Old 09-07-05, 03:27 AM
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Since you used #10, you need to protect the wire and subpanel with a 30A two pole breaker in your main panel.
Was the cable, 10/3 UF cable, so that there is two insulated conductors for the "hots", and insulated conductor for the neutral and a bare for the ground?
 
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Old 09-07-05, 06:28 AM
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My questions are: Should I bond the neutral to the panel enclosure using the green screw? The subpanel does not have a separate grounding block, so should I run grounds to the neutral or buy and install a small accesory ground block?
You do not bond the neutral and ground (EGC)...throw the green screw away. Purchase a ground bar kit for your specific panel. Install it in the swaged holes on the back wall of the panel. There should be one or two sets of these. Terminate the whites to the neutral bar and the greens and bares to the ground bar.



Do I need a ground rod driven next to the building or should use the ground from the main panel (via the UF)...the subpanel is 100+ feet away from the main panel
Yes you need a ground rod. Run a #6 solid copper to the rod and attach with acorn clamp. Terminate it on the ground bar in the sub panel. The rod should be 5/8" by 8' driven vertically into the ground to below the surface. Use a rotary hammer with ground rod driver chuck if you can get one. This saves pounding with sledge or t-post driver.
 
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Old 09-07-05, 08:51 AM
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Better than a ground rod connect it to the well casing if it is steel.
 
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Old 09-07-05, 11:22 AM
lake12aj
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Thanks for your input

Thanks all i'll run with your suggestions!!
 

Last edited by lake12aj; 09-07-05 at 08:54 PM.
  #6  
Old 09-07-05, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by sberry27
Better than a ground rod connect it to the well casing if it is steel.
Sberry27 what does your 2005 code say in 250.52 (A)(7) in regards to the well casing bond to the water pipe? I have one version that says as long there is a bond with the water pipe and an online version that says as long as there isnt a bond with the water pipe it may be used as a grounding electrode.

I thought about this but am a little blurry about the requirements so didnt suggest it but a I thought maybe someone may.

If the well water pipe serves as the grounding electrode for the main service and is bonded to the well casing, it would be part of the grounding electrode system of the main service. Would this prevent you from using the well casing as the electrode for the pump house?
At 100' away I dont think you would have considered the casing at the premises of the main service but you would have ran your GEC to the water pipe.
 
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Old 09-07-05, 08:53 PM
lake12aj
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Shallow well with no "casing"

I've got a shallow well, which has no driven "casing" to speak of. I'll add a ground bar to the sub panel and run a copper wire to a copper ground rod as suggested above...again, thanks all !!!
 
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