Installing Power cord for STackable WasherDryer

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Old 09-12-05, 01:49 AM
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Exclamation Installing Power cord for STackable WasherDryer

My friend bought a White-Westinghouse SpaceSaver 3 stackable washer dryer unit(used). After he paid for it(dumb) he discovered that the seller had it wired from a cable coming from the power box outside to the cable coming from the unit, which I am assuming isn't good. Does anyone know how to install a new cord in these units, and are they 110 or 220?
 
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Old 09-12-05, 05:26 AM
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Assuming this unit is all electric (and it most likely is), then it is 240 volts.

Consult the unit's documentation. If your friend doesn't have the documentation then check with the manufacturer, perhaps via the web site. The documentation will outline the electrical requirements, which probably are 30 amps, 240 volts.

While the unit may be able to be direct wired, the best wiring is to use the cord originally supplied with the unit, or a suitable replacement.
 
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Old 09-12-05, 07:32 AM
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One more question

Thanks RACRAFT,

I am not near an electrician by any means, but looking at the cord I just kept thinking it was way way way to thick for a 110. It is all electric and right now all I have is White-Westinghouse Space Saver 3. I tried that website, but it has nothing I could find that was helpful. Hopefully, when I get a better look at it I can find the serial #. My friend, his tool for everything is a hammer, and a few choice words....so I am trying to help. Plus, the house is his girlfriends and if something gets zapped.........heh I don't need another roomate.

Is it possible to purchase just the plug for these cords and wire that to the cord?
 

Last edited by Phredawgy; 09-12-05 at 07:34 AM. Reason: text addition
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Old 09-12-05, 10:40 AM
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You should really remove the existing wiring and reconnect it with the proper UL listed cord and plug combination that the manufacturer recommends. If you don't do this, you are essentially trusting your life and home to the wiring skills of the washing machine's previous owner. Perhaps he made a shortcut that worked for his situation, but will catch fire if you plug it in. With the model and serial number, you will be able the owners manual from the manufacturer or from an appliance repair store.
 
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Old 09-13-05, 12:26 AM
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thank you IP Brooks. I have already initiated that process, my more immediate concern is, the orange cord/cable coming in from the "box" outside is hardwired to the "box" and it can't be turned off. Once the Electric Tape is removed from the orange cord/dryer cord mating, how do you keep from getting your circuits rearranged by the power. And I have no way of knowing if it is 220 coming out of this "box" or not. I am tempted just to call the power company and see if they will help. I've jolted myself with 220 before and while I am sure others have done much worse with much higher voltage, It still hurt like hell and I am in no way looking to repeat the jolting again.
 
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Old 09-13-05, 08:14 AM
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Phredawgy, Do I understand this correctly? Your friend bought a washer dryer from someone else who has it direct wired into the electrical box on the side of the house (the meter?) , with NO overcurrent device between it and the incomming power and you are now in the process of trying to figure out how to remove it from their house??

Aside from calling the police to report possible electricity theft (which I would probably do if I knew there were children in that house whose lives were in danger due to their parents stupidity), stay far far far (have I said that enough?) away. Pick the unit up AFTER the previous owner has it fully disconnected. The existing situation is extremely dangerous and if anything were to happen while you were touching it or after you touched it, and it's highly likely something will, you could be liable (or dead...).

Doug M.
 
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Old 09-13-05, 08:21 AM
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The more I read this, the more I get the impression that this is an extremely dangerous and illegal connection. I second Doug's post. If he and I read this right, run away from this and don't look back. In the future, chose your friends better. This one sounds dishonest and stupid.
 
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Old 09-13-05, 09:03 PM
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We don't have enough information to jump to police reports yet do we?

Yes, from the description thus far, this may be an installation where the plug was cut off of the appliance cord, spliced to a thick orange extension cord, and then the extension cord was wired directly to the electric meter.

There could also be other less shocking (pun intended) explanations... although the fact that the appliance cord was spliced instead of a proper plug being installed clearly indicates poor-quality installation at the very least.

The original poster thus far hasn't been able to describe the situation in a way that others can understand and we may be jumping to conclusions. The biggest question is what does the original poster mean by "it can't be turned off". Does he mean that there is no fuse or circuit breaker that will turn off the power to the appliance or does he mean something else?

If the original poster is going to do anything at all, the first thing to do is turn off every circuit breaker and disconnect every fuse in the house to see which one (if any) controls the appliance.

We need more detail on this "box" that this orange wire is connected to outside. Does it contain an electric meter? Does it contain circuit breakers or fuses? Where is this box located relative to the electric meter and the circuit breaker or fuse panel? Is there more than one breaker/fuse panel in the house? Is this box on a pole or is it attached to the side of the house?

Also, it would be helpful if you could describe the cable leaving the dryer. Does it have any writing on it? If so, what letters and numbers are there?

What about this mysterious orange cable to which the dryer cable is spliced? Does it have any writing on it? If so, what letters and numbers are there?
 
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Old 09-14-05, 12:32 AM
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My Apologies

First for such a confusing description. The item is NOT connected directly to the meter. It is however, as I have not gotten close enough to find out yet, connected to a box that sits on a Pole(I believe this is a small power pole for the half lot that the trailer(it's an old single wide trailer) sits on. The power cannot be turned off to that box to stop current from coming to the cord. If this property were ever sold the half lot would not be allowed, but the section of town I live in used to be a part of county property until the city annexed it and it is grandfathered in as legal for use as a small trailer lot. First I have no idea who installed the orange cord, but I did find out that when it was first installed it wasn't a successful first try because it blew a fuse in my house(it's an older house - has no breakers, just fuses). At the time we thought it was just a matter of an old fuse that just gave out. I don't know alot about electricity(therefore I don't work with it much, truth be told it scares the hell out of me, I burnt my hand up when I was four shoving something in an outlet) but I've been told that if there were a power surge or other conditions, there could be a wholelot more than 220v coming out of that cord. When these morons disconnect it, or decide to try, I will be nowhere near the Ugly Blue Metal coffin they are in. A couple people suggested to them to cut the wires one at a time, tape them off, and it should be fine. I have just been trying to assess the feasability of attempting this myself, after further review my Magic 8Ball told me "All Signs point to you being a moron if you try to touch it" I just found out today that a co-worker of mine has a boyfriend who works for the Local Electrical Coop. so tomorrow he and one of his coworkers are going to pay an unannounced visit to check it out(they don't normally do this without extensive notice and a nice fee) but It's apparent to me and them that this isn't a minor issue. Thankfully there are no children at this residence anymore, but being an old trailer it won't take long to burn, and since it's actually hooked to the electric meter my house uses, has blown a fuse in my house before, and I live in an older house I have no desire to burn to death in my sleep. I APPRECIATE all the advice and concern, I will update everyone on the idiot neighbors medical conditions or just what happens when my friends boyfriend and coworker from the Electric Coop arrive. I have an electrical outlet that needs rewired so I will be back for advice.
 
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Old 09-14-05, 07:48 AM
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Phredawgy, Sound decisions . Plan a nice weekend outing about 3 towns over. Bummer you can't get your house further away . Good news though, I'm an x-fireman and trailers, especially old ones, usually burn so fast that there's little risk of spread to surrounding homes.

One thought: If the mobile home is hooked up such that it blows fuses in your fuse box (I don't want any more detail here... It scares me already... I'm just going to assume the trailer is hooked to your house via a correctly wired sub panel...) won't pulling some of your fuses out turn power off to the trailer so the owner can disconnect the dryer safely? And completely remove the orange cord?

Doug M.
 
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Old 09-14-05, 10:01 AM
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Almost forgot... In my original post I asked for verification of my understanding and then responded on the basis that my understanding was correct. It wasn't. There were a few details that Phredawgy filled in on his next post that clarified things. The setup as it sits today is probably not the least bit safe, but may or may not be somewhat safer than it sounded at first and there isn't any reason to believe there is any type of felony going on, at least not intentionally. I didn't mean to imply that there was enough information given at first to determine that, but there was enough information given to suspect it. A visit from some of the Coop inspectors (assuming they're inspectors...) is great and Pharedawgy, if I were you, I'd take advantage of it and let them look at everything including the connections in your box to see if it's all safe. If there's a connection back to your house, you're involved whether you want to be or not. Make it easy for them and let them help make it safe for everyone.

Doug M.
 
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Old 09-15-05, 12:47 AM
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Talking

I don't know why I hadn't thought about the fuses. In fact, I still haven't gotten home with enough light to go check said "box", but I am beginning to think that the box will in fact lose power if I remove one of the fuses outside my front door here. There are two different boxes, one that has 2 long fuses, and one that has a handle and looks like it pulls a big plug looking setup out of it, this one I believe is the 220 circuit that runs MY dryer and the Wall heater in my spare bedroom. If those two wastes of skin get home soon I'll test it out. If that isn't the cure then I am just waiting for the guys from the Electric Coop. to come out, and I have a feeling that they are coming like it or not, which if there is anything in my house that needs repaired a nice note/request/form from them will leave my landlord with NO POSSIBLE WAY to get out of it. He might be miffed but he's not the one who can't sleep because his girlfriend can't sleep. She keeps hearing electrical sparking sounds(it's actually the cat and it's scratchingpost).

Thank you again (everyone) for the advice
 
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Old 09-15-05, 08:45 AM
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Landlord? This is rental property?? Didn't is say I didn't want any more details? The only way this could get worse is if you were to tell us that you lived in New Orleans and the trailer was in 6 feet of water.

You can remove the fuses. ANY other alteration of the electrical system (removal of the orange cord...) legally, MUST be done by a licensed electrician. Don't touch anything. Don't watch someone else touch anything. Don't get any more involved. And please, don't tell us if you don't take this advice.

Tell your girlfriend that if the noises she hears at night were actually electrical noises, the house would have burned down long ago. Get her a good smoke alarm for every bedroom, put the cat outside and get some sleep. BTW: If your girlfriend can't afford a good smoke alarm for her bedroom(s), call the local fire department - look in your phone book for their non-emergancey number - and ask them if they have a free smoke alarm program. Most do.

Good luck to you.

Doug M.
 
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Old 10-02-05, 06:40 AM
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sorry for taking so long to reply but I had to wait for things to cool down hehe. the idiots with one functioning brain cell between them got one of their familial units to explain to them ow to not zap us all into little bits. And it worked. Thankfully the city and 2 people from the Electric Coop also showed and now the sardine can is either going to be renovated and then moved or just renovated. . Tweedle dumb and Tweedle dumber are gone and I am not so all is well here.


Doug....we have smoke alarms ad a c02 one as well. But try convincing an angry,tired pre-menstrual woman that smoke alarms sense fires from electrical causes when obviously they should have seperate alarms for them....hehe because they have special fire extinguishers....LOL thankfully that is over too. I did have a question about ceiling fan istallation.....but I am fairl certain I don't have contents that were supposed to come with it.....waiting for Home Depotto get back to me about that......why is it when you are there they are on you like flies on fecal chips but when you are really busy, or now trying to correct their mistake they won't even reply. Anyway thanks to all who offered either advice,warnings,or prayer....when I get my parts I shall return
 
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