Wiring a dryer

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  #1  
Old 11-11-05, 05:35 PM
Baudman
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Wiring a dryer

I have started to wire a new plug for my dryer and I have run into a problem.

I'll start with what I have done. I started with 4 wire #10 gage wire(red,black,white,and bare). I wired the receptical first connecting the bare wire to the screw marked green, the black to the screw marked x and the red to y, and lastly the white to the screw marked white. then i ran the cable to the breaker box connecting the bare wire to a screw for grounding, the white to the neutral bus bar(all other white wires are connected to the same bar) and lastly the red and black to a 30 amp double breaker(green breaker in a stab loc panel).

But when I go to turn the breaker on I get a loud humming noise then a flash and the breaker triping. Would this mean I have wired something wrong? Or maybe my panel can't handle another receptical like this.

Any advice or comments would greatly help me out.
 
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  #2  
Old 11-11-05, 06:08 PM
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Yes, you have something shorted.

Either you have shorted the two hot leads to each other or you have shorted one of them to either the neutral or to the ground. The other possibility is that the breaker cannot be installed in the manner you have installed it.
 
  #3  
Old 11-11-05, 06:12 PM
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While you are on the subject of a stab loc panel, you might wanna see this:

http://www.inspect-ny.com/fpe/fpepanel.htm
 
  #4  
Old 11-11-05, 06:46 PM
Baudman
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The panel is a federal pioneer stab-lock. Is it the same as chirkware mentions in his post?
 
  #5  
Old 11-11-05, 07:05 PM
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  #6  
Old 11-11-05, 07:20 PM
Baudman
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Originally Posted by racraft
Yes, you have something shorted.

Either you have shorted the two hot leads to each other or you have shorted one of them to either the neutral or to the ground. The other possibility is that the breaker cannot be installed in the manner you have installed it.
could the ground be shorting it out the way I have it? A member at my site has posted this
Originally Posted by jimdandy
You cant run a bare ground on a dryer,white to ground in breaker box an on dryer recp. block.red an black to breaker.an dryer recp.block.The way you have it wired ,you have dead short to case,dont touch the dryer
you have 110 volts to the case.The green screw wire,ground to a water pipe,if you need a second ground.
 
  #7  
Old 11-11-05, 07:21 PM
Baudman
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as for the breaker its self I think it would be find as Home Depot wouldn't see a recalled product would they? I just bought it yesterday.
 
  #8  
Old 11-11-05, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Baudman
The panel is a federal pioneer stab-lock. Is it the same as chirkware mentions in his post?
It is if you are in the USA. In Canada, Stab-lok panels never really went "bad", and are still safe, and sold.
 
  #9  
Old 11-12-05, 03:31 AM
Baudman
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Originally Posted by classicsat
It is if you are in the USA. In Canada, Stab-lok panels never really went "bad", and are still safe, and sold.
Thats what I was thinking. Other wize it wouldn't be sold.
 
  #10  
Old 11-12-05, 04:23 AM
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Hi,

I am new here, but could you have the red and black wires at the breaker backwards?

Tom
 
  #11  
Old 11-12-05, 04:32 AM
Baudman
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Originally Posted by b4u8cake
Hi,

I am new here, but could you have the red and black wires at the breaker backwards?

Tom
From what I have read it shouldn't matter which way they are connected.

I hope to have this working by the days end cause the wife and I have alot of laundry to do. lol

Thanks for your reply though.

My only question left is do I connect the bare wire to the green screw on the receptical, and then in the panel the bare wire goes to the bus with all the other bare wires? And do I have to ground the receptical box? When I did I pig tailed the grounds so I had one to the box and one to the receptical and then I had the problem in my first post.
 

Last edited by Baudman; 11-12-05 at 04:50 AM.
  #12  
Old 11-12-05, 05:24 AM
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While I understand that in Canada it is acceptable to connect a ground to a water pipe, this is frowned upon in the US and against code (except in limited situations). Regardless, if you have a four wire cable then you don;t need to use a water pipe.

It makes no difference which wire, red or black, is connected to which breaker terminal.

The white neutral gets connected to the buss where the other white neutral wires are connected. The green or bare ground gets connected where the other ground wires are connected. Sometimes they connect to the same buss.

At the receptacle the bare ground connects to the ground terminal and must also connect to the box if it is metal.

Work from one end or the other. Wire up the panel before wiring up the receptacle. With the receptacle ends of the wires stripped and separated, use a voltmeter or a neon light tester and verify proper wiring and no shorts. Then connect up the receptacle. Be very careful that the bare ground wire does not contact anything except what it is supposed to connect to.

If you still have problem that you can't figure out, then disconnect the breaker end and use your meter to check for shorts between the wires, with the receptacle ends connected.
 
  #13  
Old 11-12-05, 06:45 AM
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Check cable clamps and staples.
I heard of somebody overtightening them and causing the insulation to displace, shorting it out.
 
  #14  
Old 11-12-05, 08:51 AM
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Have you checked the wiring at the dryer itself. In your situation with a four wire hook-up, the ground shoud go to the chassis, and there should NOT be a jumper between the neutral and chassis.
 
  #15  
Old 11-12-05, 09:32 AM
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With no cord-plug inserted into the receptacle, dic-connect the Red & Black wires from the C-B terminals, then test each Black/Red wire by connecting one lead of a "pig-tail" socket to a C-B terminal, and the other lead in sucession to the 2 wires.

When you switch the C-B on, the lamp should not be illuminated; if it is either dim or brite, you have a Ground-fault.
 
  #16  
Old 11-12-05, 07:37 PM
Baudman
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Thanks to all who have made suggestions. I'm please to tell you all that I have it solved and all is working. Turns out that I had everything wired right the first time but there was a cut in the red wire at the cable clamp in the panel, thus shorting out the breaker.
 
  #17  
Old 11-12-05, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Baudman
Thanks to all who have made suggestions. I'm please to tell you all that I have it solved and all is working. Turns out that I had everything wired right the first time but there was a cut in the red wire at the cable clamp in the panel, thus shorting out the breaker.
How did that happen...so that others don't make the same...mistake?
 
  #18  
Old 11-12-05, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Bonehead
How did that happen...so that others don't make the same...mistake?

Maybe baudman made the mistake I made once...I used my cordless drill to tighten down the romex connector...Since I wasn't turning the screws by hand (via screwdriver), and since the cordless drill has a good amount of torque, I didn't realize the romex connector had pinched through the NM sheath and through the wire insulation.

Thankfully, that stab-loc breaker (the dreadful 1970's USA ones) tripped...
 
  #19  
Old 11-12-05, 08:18 PM
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Hats off to classicsat for calling this one correctly.
 
  #20  
Old 11-13-05, 04:48 AM
Baudman
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after inspecting the clamp I noticed sharp edges on the inside. It looks like slag from the factory. I think I'll be lookingat my clamps more closly from now on. lol
 
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