Dryer Delimma

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  #1  
Old 11-29-05, 09:14 AM
gws
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Dryer Delimma

I can't work this one out...bought a house with dryer included-medium size Kenmore whichworks fine. I replaced it with a larger Maytag which worked fine for about a year,then began stopping about halfway thru cycle, then would not start at all. I could hear the dryer's internal (thermal?) breaker trip as I pushed the start button, so I figure either the dryer motor or the dryer breaker is bad(although the dryer is only a few years old).I bought a new Maytag almost exactly the same as the non-working one(my wife likes the larger size) and had the same exact problem.2 bad motors? 2 bad breakers?Hard to believe.Voltage ok across older 3 prong dryer outlet(no load).Could there be a problem with the panel breaker or cable or outlet to explain this?Or did I just get 2 defective dryers? Should I haul this sucker to the neighbors' and test it there?Would replacing cable/outlet make a difference?How about ritually slaughtering a chicken? Help!
 
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  #2  
Old 11-29-05, 09:22 AM
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You say that the voltage is "ok". There are three voltage readings you can take: (1) slit to slit, (2) left slit to ground, (3) right slit to ground. Did you take all three? Did you get voltage on all three? What test instrument are you using?

Is the breaker 20-amp or 30-amp?
 
  #3  
Old 11-29-05, 09:45 AM
gws
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Dryer Delimma

Thanks for the reply! I used a multimeter to check ... 240V across hot legs(two top slits,cant remember shape)120V across hot to neutral(each).Double pole 30A panel breaker.
 
  #4  
Old 11-29-05, 10:01 AM
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Well, all that seems good, so now I share your confusion.

Have you checked the vent pipe to see if it is clear? A vent pipe clogged with lint will limit air flow and quickly cause dryers to overheat, and potentially burn out. Did the latest dryer ever work, even for a minute?
 
  #5  
Old 11-29-05, 10:03 AM
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Have you cleaned the lint out? It may be overheating and shutting down.
 
  #6  
Old 11-29-05, 12:49 PM
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gws, please clarify a few things for us: You bought a new dryer almost exactly like the old dryer and it immediately displayed the same symptoms as the old dryer? Never worked at all? Did you purchase a new cord with the new dryer or reuse the old cord? Did you install the new dryer(s) or did someone else? You state that the Kenmore dryer works fine. Do you mean it works fine now when you put it back or it worked fine until you took it out?

Obviously taking the dryer next door might help rule out a problem with your wiring (if it displayed the same symptoms there), but it's a lot of trouble to go through for little resolution. It might be a better idea to check the plug and breaker box for obvious faults like loose connections and verify via the installation instructions and a friend (new eyes) that everything is wired correctly on the dryer terminals.

Doug M.

PS. Ritually slaughtering a chicken rarely solves electrical or appliance problems, but might keep you from going hungry while you figure this one out. Just don't get your clothes dirty while doing it - you have no dryer.
 
  #7  
Old 11-29-05, 02:06 PM
gws
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Dryer delimma...part 3

Thanks for the replies!!! Vent pipe is clear,anyway Maytags(both 5 yr old one and new one will not even start(if the d ryers were overheating at least they would start).The first thing I tried was a new dryer cord as this is cheap and easy-no workee.This is what I thought-Maytag #1 either a)has a bad motor which is drawing extra current when it tries to start,tripping the internal breaker, or has a bad breaker or b)something is wrong with my wiring just enough to run the smaller Kenmore fine but won't start the larger Maytag(I know that sounds a bit wierd).However when I bought a brand new Maytag and it had the exact same symptoms as the older one(tries to start,internal breaker trips ,must wait 20 min for it to cool and try again)I just got totally flummoxed. ....chicken getting nervous...
 
  #8  
Old 11-29-05, 02:27 PM
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Turn the breakers off and check the wiring at the plug and breakers. All correct and all tight? Try remaking all the connections just to make sure.

If that fails, call for warranty service on the new dryer or have it replaced as possibly defective. Have Maytag Service install the replacement (they may insist on this anyhow...) and see if they can get it to work.

If that fails, return the Maytag and get a bigger Kenmore.

Forget the chicken. Just order pizza.

Doug M.
 
  #9  
Old 11-29-05, 02:56 PM
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If dryer limited, the motor would still work - but it ain't. Off hand it sounds like a bad motor. Sounds like the motor itself is on overload. I am not familiar with dryers I have worked on having a main limit capable of shutting down the motor other than the overload protector of the motor itself. Of all the dryers I have worked on - few motor failures. But the one that did? -You guessed it - a Maytag. Because you have a centriugal switch in a dryer, it's not so readily easy to simply turn on the switch and run ohms thru cord to see it it is going thru the unit. You would have to literally figure out where to disconnect at the centrifugal switch and test leads there, to confirm your outage for sure. Maybe if you caled a Maytag dealer, some tech guy would be so kind as to tell you how to do this test. Either that, access, remove wires from the plug in block on the motor and try the various terminals and try to conclude, with perhaps the help of a wiring schematic.

But before you do!:

If the dryer runs again once it cools down, make sure that the dryer drum can spin with moderate resistance by hand. Could be bad roller brearings or bad rear bearing binding the dryer drum. Also, remove the belt from the idler pulley (tensioner) and motor shaft and then turn the dryer motor shaft. Should spin real freely! if not: Bingo!, for sure.
 
  #10  
Old 11-29-05, 03:02 PM
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The dryer is probably shipped with some packing material or stops that prevent the drum from turning. You have to remove these as part of the installation. Did you read and carefully follow all the installation instructions?

I like the suggest to try to turn the drum by hand to see if it turns.
 
  #11  
Old 11-29-05, 03:05 PM
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Oops. There IS a thermal protector. But many dryers have these to intentionally remain limited and you can't reset them, nor do they reset themselves. If I were you, I would lift the hood, and locate the smallest thermal disc. This is the one. Sits above the element area at back of drum, often times. If 3 discs are back there, it is the little one. Test disc. THEN run dryer. Then when it limits, quickly retest disc. Then you will know. Then still comes the issue as to why, and I addressed some of those.

Another reason why dryer drums don't turn easy - actually none turn Easy EASY - but you could have let's say a sock caught up in the blower wheel. I have gone out on calls for such stoppages. You have to pull the front of dryer and expose blower wheel, then turn drum and watch blower wheel turn also. They are direct-drive connected.
 
  #12  
Old 11-29-05, 03:24 PM
gws
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Dryer delimma...part 4

last post tonight, time for a cold beer.I immediately returned the brand new dryer (this was a few weeks ago)so i dont have that one to play with anymore.Both that dryer and the Maytag I still have seem to turn freely enough by hand.I should clarify exactly what happens (on the Maytags) when I push start: normal hum of solenoid type switch which should be followed by drum motor starting...however motor does not start. If start button is held in too long(4 or 5 secs) internal breaker trips followed by faint burning odor. Bad motor, I figure.But basically identical brand new dryer with exactly the same symptoms?Who's karma is that friggen bad? I guess I'll double check the wiring again and drag the dryer next door and hook it up (his laundry room is right next to the door)...if it works there at least I know to start at my panel and work from there.btw...put Kenmore back in..works great,but only dries weeks worth of clothes..cant seem to get to laundry that often...Thanks for all the help!!!
 
  #13  
Old 11-29-05, 03:32 PM
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Check the wiring at the receptacle.
 
  #14  
Old 11-29-05, 03:41 PM
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Aren't those Maytag repairmen supposed to be real bored? Their warranty service didn't offer you any help? They just took it back w/ out seeing what the problem was?
 
  #15  
Old 11-29-05, 04:07 PM
gws
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Dryer Delimma

Well, I did'nt even ask, I just figured that the problem was somewhere in my house and if I fixed it the older Maytag would work. I mean, darn, I already got 2 dryers(and washers) less than 5 yrs old.I did ask a appliance repairman at the store about my confusion and he looked at me as if I were retarded.Only my wife gets to look at me that way...
 
  #16  
Old 11-29-05, 07:13 PM
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I'm not quite sure why this hasn't come up, and I'm definitely not a pro, but I thought all new dryers for the last 10 years or so have the 4 prong plug. If you have put a 3 prong pig tail on it, could that be the problem? Maybe the Maytag has additional safety features that won't allow it to run without a properly ground receptacle.
 
  #17  
Old 11-30-05, 06:49 AM
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Timinindy, Actually, dryers usually don't come with any cord and plug. Houses built in the last 10 years or so have 4 prong receptacles. Older houses have 3 prong receptacles. A cord that matches the receptacle in the house should be installed on the dryer. Either 3 or 4 prong will work assuming they are wired correctly at the dryer, and most dryers come with instructions for both.

Your thought is sort of why I suggested that someone else look at the connections with the installation instructions in hand to make sure the wiring is correct. Basically, on a 3 wire installation, there should be a jumper wire between the neutral terminal and the ground terminal. Just for clarity, a 3 wire installation has a proper ground. It doesn't have a proper neutral, but there's no way for the machine to know the difference as long as the jumper is in place. I wouldn't think there would even be a click if there was no neutral or pseudo neutral connection and I wouldn't think the older Maytag would have ever run at all if it wasn't there either, but it's worth a look.

Doug M.
 
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