220 to 110


Old 01-17-06, 09:43 AM
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220 to 110

Maybe a stupid question, but can a 220 outlet be converted to 110? Our electric stove runs off 220. We are replacing it with a propane stove that requires a 110 outlet, but there isn't one available where it needs to be.
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Old 01-17-06, 10:00 AM
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Central New York State
Posts: 13,973
Sometimes, and only sometimes, a 240 volt circuit can be converted to a 120 volt circuit. It depends on the wiring used for the 120 volt circuit.

Converting the circuit is not as easy or inexpensive as it sounds. If it can be done, you only save money on the wire itself. You still need to buy the appropriate breaker, you still need to buy the appropriate receptacle and junction box, and you still need to make the connections (something that is a little more challenging with the larger wire used for a 240 volt stove).

In my opinion, you would be better off running a new circuit and leaving the original circuit intact. Someday you might want to go back.
Old 01-17-06, 10:03 AM
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Just happed to realize that the electric stove is probably hardwired. If we run a new new outlet, what do we do with the wiring that is left from the removal of the old stove? I'm assuming it'll be live, and I don't want 240 volt wires just hanging there.
Old 01-17-06, 10:06 AM
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: welland ontario
Posts: 5,599
Cap the wires and put a blank cover on the box.
Old 01-17-06, 10:34 AM
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 995
Originally Posted by troyers
I'm assuming it'll be live, and I don't want 240 volt wires just hanging there.
Assuming is not allowed in this work. It should be on a dedicated breaker. Turn it off. And then you STILL cap the wires.
Old 01-17-06, 08:52 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Warren, Vermont
Posts: 353
Converting a 240 volt circuit to 120 volt is not difficult. If the wires and cable jacket are in good condition, and not aluminum, then you will need some large wire nuts and white tape. The cable should terminate in a 4x4 box (preferably deeper than 1" to accomodate the wire and outlet). Take the red (or black) wire and wrap it with white tape (to show that it is a neutral conductor) at both ends (the box and panel).
For the box (outlet) end: take a 6 to 8 inch piece of 12 or 14 gage white wire, strip 1/2-3/4" from one end and wire nut (a gray wire nut) to the wire with white tape. Do the same with a black piece of wire to the other large wire. Do the same with a piece of green or bare ground wire, wire nutted (a red wire nut) to the ground wire. Strip 1-1" from the other end of those pigtails and wire them to an outlet. Attach a 4x4 cover for single outlet to the outlet and screw the cover to the box.
In the panel, pigtail (with a gray wire nut) an appropriate length of white or black wire to the appropriate wire. The ground should already be attached to the grounding bar. Run the white pigtail to the neutral (grounded) bar. Attach the black wire to a 15 amp single pole circuit breaker.
If you do want to abandon a circuit, disconnect the wires from the breaker and cap off (with a wire nut) both ends of each of thos wires.
Maybe even put a tag on the cable to tell where it runs to, in case someone wants to go back to electric down the road.
Old 01-18-06, 06:43 AM
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: United States
Posts: 18,497
fixitron, your directions are functional, but unfortunately may be a code violation. Depending on the gauge of the wire, you usually can't just wrap white tape around a red wire and call it a neutral.

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