220 volts on 10-2 wire
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220 volts on 10-2 wire
I bought a small electrical heater, 4800 watts for my garage. In checking my code book for heaters, it suggested using 10-2 for the wattage. When I looked to hook up the plug, it suggested i needed 10-3? Is this necessary to remove all the 10-2 I just put in? How would I wire the breaker. Black to one side and white to the other of the breaker, bare wire to the ground?
thanks for the suggestions.
Brian
thanks for the suggestions.
Brian
#3
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10/2 or 10/3
The difference that you are looking for in this case is there are 3 different 10 romex's out there.
10/2 with no ground. black and white only.
10/2 with ground. black, white and ground.
10/3 with ground. black,red,white and ground.
For your water heater you would want 10/2 with ground.
10/2 with no ground. black and white only.
10/2 with ground. black, white and ground.
10/3 with ground. black,red,white and ground.
For your water heater you would want 10/2 with ground.
#4
Originally Posted by bwaz
When I looked to hook up the plug, it suggested i needed 10-3?
Unless this is a strange heater than none of us has ever seen it is unlikely that you need the 120/240v circuit that 10/3 would supply.
Does the plug have three or four prongs?
What are the exact specs for the unit?
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I think this is just terminology confusion. If it is truly a *PLUG* we are discussing (not a receptical), then it indeed needs to be connected to 10-3, because PLUGS are connected to a flexible cord, not romex. 10-3 is to a flexible cord as 10-2wg is to romex. Both allow two current carrying conductors (either hot + hot or hot + neutral) and a ground.
It's also possible that the OP is referring to a receptical, but is reading instructions that assume the use of a metalic cable similar to this (but 10 guage) where the grounding conductor is counted as the third wire.
BTW: The OP is NOT discussing a water heater, nor did they run ungrounded cable. They specifically mention a bare ground wire.
One other possibility: The OP has the wrong receptical for the application. If we are talking a 30A 240V circuit, the receptical should be a NEMA 6-30R. Perhaps they have a 10-30R (aka, pre 1996 dryer receptical), which was intended for 10-3 (without ground) and would, I assume, be illegal on a new circuit since it does not provide a ground. Perhaps the OP has a 14-30R (aka modern dryer receptical) which is intended for 10-3wg. Either of these wrong recepticals would specify 10-3 NM cable, as they both have a neutral connection. See this chart for pictures of each of these recepticals.
It's also possible that the OP is referring to a receptical, but is reading instructions that assume the use of a metalic cable similar to this (but 10 guage) where the grounding conductor is counted as the third wire.
BTW: The OP is NOT discussing a water heater, nor did they run ungrounded cable. They specifically mention a bare ground wire.
One other possibility: The OP has the wrong receptical for the application. If we are talking a 30A 240V circuit, the receptical should be a NEMA 6-30R. Perhaps they have a 10-30R (aka, pre 1996 dryer receptical), which was intended for 10-3 (without ground) and would, I assume, be illegal on a new circuit since it does not provide a ground. Perhaps the OP has a 14-30R (aka modern dryer receptical) which is intended for 10-3wg. Either of these wrong recepticals would specify 10-3 NM cable, as they both have a neutral connection. See this chart for pictures of each of these recepticals.
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Thanks for the responses....
the plug on the unit is a 6-30R, and the receptical is the same configuration. It looks like I need 3 wire instead of the 10-2 i've put it? Can i add another run of 14-2 for an extra wire rather than wasting what I've put it, or do I have to buck up and buy some 10-3? Sorry I don't have the specs
for the heater in front of me, I'll get them later...
thanks again.
Brian.
the plug on the unit is a 6-30R, and the receptical is the same configuration. It looks like I need 3 wire instead of the 10-2 i've put it? Can i add another run of 14-2 for an extra wire rather than wasting what I've put it, or do I have to buck up and buy some 10-3? Sorry I don't have the specs
for the heater in front of me, I'll get them later...
thanks again.
Brian.
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A 6-30R or 6-30P is straight 240 volt, and requires two conductors plus ground. You have what you need.
If you needed other wires you cannot simply add another wire, especially one that is smaller guge. You would have to replace what you have already installed.
If you needed other wires you cannot simply add another wire, especially one that is smaller guge. You would have to replace what you have already installed.
#10
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Originally Posted by bwaz
the plug on the unit is a 6-30R, and the receptical is the same configuration. It looks like I need 3 wire instead of the 10-2 i've put it?
#11
the plug on the unit is a 6-30R
Originally Posted by bwaz
BTW, the 10-2 i've put in is a black/white/bare wire configuration
Brian
Brian
It is also required that you color in the last few inches of the white wire with a black, red or blue Sharpie marker to indiciate that it is used as a hot wire both at the receptacle and in the breaker box.
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thanks for all the information everyone. One last item,
on my breaker with a bar between, does one wire (black and white) go to each side of the breaker, with the bare to the bar with the other bare wires in the panel?
thanks
Brian
on my breaker with a bar between, does one wire (black and white) go to each side of the breaker, with the bare to the bar with the other bare wires in the panel?
thanks
Brian
#13
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Yes, but you should color the white wire to be a red or black in the panel as well as at the device. It is not being used as a white (neutral) so make it look like a hot (black or red). The bare goes to the same bus that the other grounding wires are on.