elec dryer and range are they interchangeable ?

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  #1  
Old 02-07-06, 10:49 AM
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elec dryer and range are they interchangeable ?

my question is a weird one, lets say I want to clean my oven outside in the garage , could I just roll it out there and change the plug with the dryer outlet ?...I know the plug are different, and the breakers are the same 30 and 30 amp.....lets say use the cord from the dryer for the stove...I thought they were supposed to be 30 amps for dryer and 50 amps for the range...let me know
 
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  #2  
Old 02-07-06, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by rentprop1
I know the plugs are different, and the breakers are the same 30 and 30 amp.....
Very unusual.

No, don't get yourself into changing the cord and plug on your appliances.

Is this thing "self-cleaning" but makes too much smoke?
 
  #3  
Old 02-07-06, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by rentprop1
my question is a weird one, lets say I want to clean my oven outside in the garage , could I just roll it out there and change the plug with the dryer outlet ?...I know the plug are different, and the breakers are the same 30 and 30 amp.....lets say use the cord from the dryer for the stove...I thought they were supposed to be 30 amps for dryer and 50 amps for the range...let me know
I suspect that it would work fine but I think that it is more trouble then it is worth. Please advise the watts that are shown on the ranges name plate.
 
  #4  
Old 02-08-06, 11:20 PM
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OK I just went to look for a name plate and could not find one ? I double checked and both breakers are 30 amp for dryer and range...the main reason I need to install an oven in the garage is to cure auto parts with duplicolor 500 deg paint.....needs to cure at 500 deg for 3 hours.....the stuff smokes and smell like hell, I just cant do it indoors, I have an older oven that came with our house ( we got a new one ) even more reason that I can do this indoors.....the plugs are different but they wire up the same right ?....could I just wire it direct for this 1 time application .... as long as breaker size is same why could I not just switch dryer plug to oven and operate oven in the garage ?...I really need to hook it up this way with out running another line over to the dryer for a once or twice a year auto parts paint-n-bake....there isn't space in the pannel to run anything else anyways...thanks Mark
 
  #5  
Old 02-09-06, 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by rentprop1
OK I just went to look for a name plate and could not find one
On the back of the stove?


I double checked and both breakers are 30 amp for dryer and range...
Not normal. What is the nameplate of the new range?


I just cant do it indoors
A garage is indoors.



the plugs are different but they wire up the same right ?
Yes.



could I just wire it direct for this 1 time application
Then you would probably need a disconnect and some heavy SO cord.



why could I not just switch dryer plug to oven and operate oven in the garage ?
I give up. Why not?
 
  #6  
Old 02-09-06, 07:56 AM
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hey blondie or should I say MR. copy and paste, dont add to the problem, its hard to find a good DIY forum to ask questions and hope you get answers the next day or even quicker, this makes 2 of my posts that had something important with regards to potentially safety in each of them and you chose to answer them with smart azz one liners that show nothing but your 3 rd grade education, if you dont have a direct answer please post your crap in the toilet DIY help section
 
  #7  
Old 02-09-06, 08:45 AM
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I think most of his one-liners are right on point? A third-grader certainly could not give the answer that his one-liners provide. Unless he's got some macro I don't know about, multiple quotes like that are actually more work but make for an easier-to-follow answer. The answers are direct. But you wanted answers, right?

Have you looked on the back of the stove for the nameplate? His one-liner showed that that is where you will usually find it. The rest of his one-liners answered specific questions or issues that a professional electrician noticed.

I can say I certainly have more than a 3rd-grade education, but I really don't have much more to add than what he said...

His last line was my favorite, in fact. If it's worth it to you for the time involved, and you've verified the amperage or wattage requirements of that stove when running full-tilt, "why not?"
 
  #8  
Old 02-09-06, 11:08 AM
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hey blondie
Cute.


or should I say MR. copy and paste?
I answered all your questions, and left no ambiguity as to what I was addressing.


this makes 2 of my posts that had something important with regards to potentially safety in each of them and you chose to answer them
I answered them succintly and as thoroughly as I could given the very limited information that you provided.


if you dont have a direct answer
I believe they were very direct.

The thing is that you think we should be saying "oh yeah, you're so right, rantporp, that's unsafe!"

Perhaps we should be, but first you need to explain why it is unsafe.
Post a picture or something definitive like numbers from the nameplate.


My question "On the back of the stove?" was not smartalecky.
It was short for "Did you check on the back of the stove?".
Thanks for letting us know that you didn't understand. Feedback is always helpful.

I also posted a clarification in the other thread.
 
  #9  
Old 02-09-06, 06:04 PM
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ok lets try it this way, on other boards people that chop up posts and answer that way, with quick and not required responces make posts cluttered and very hard to read, its also hard on the eyes........here we go please stay with my typing in a paragraph
1. I am smart enough to look on the back, I know what a name plate is.....we bought house, stove came with house, stove has NO name plate, anywhere even propped it up on a cinder block to look underneath.
2. yes the garage is indoors, but it has a very large door that open real close to the stove where the smell would flow outside and not stink up the place.
3. with smart azz remarks like the garage is indoors and I give up Why not...when I asked about switching the plug...did nothing but upset me when I was looking for an answer to safely switch the recepticals for the dryer and the stove...I understand about what Mac702 said about that stove when running full-tilt, and in the first post I asked "should I have a 50 amp breaker for the stove in the first place ", if the wire size is only for 30 amps and has been in the walls for 30 + yrs, is that ok or should I be really concerned...I guess some people answer some of the questions and think they have done a service ......
p.s. I wasn't trying to make fun of your name I typed fast and did not proof read.....thanks for the stab back at me in making fun of mine.

I started posting here a few months ago asking questions about carpet, my posts went unanswered, I am glad that u guys have this forum and its active, meaning you ask a question and someone replied with in a reasonable time frame so u can get something done, I usually frequent a few other forums where its a tight nit group and respect is given even to newbees, thats where I come off calling out a smart azz when someone just cant answer the question straight.....For some reason I CAN NOT POST pics that what it says at the bottom of my screen , I signed it, logged it, must be cause I have a post count of like 15, like it matters how many posts you have anyways.....what do u want a pic of the back of the stove with no name plate ?, do you want a pic of the grounding bar with 2 wires attached, I really dont feel how posting a pic of something so simple would make a difference, I am sure u knew what I was talking about, if not, thanks all for the help, try not to be SHORT with newbees we are not electricians we only came here for help, slow down give a little more info easy with the copy and paste stuff, itr really annoying and hard to read
 
  #10  
Old 02-09-06, 06:46 PM
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OK, lets be calm now.

For a picture: go to www.photobucket.com and upload the picture. Then reply here with the address to the photo. I'm guessing you have a digital camera.

Then the electricians here can maybe identify your stove and give you more information.

OK?

Baldwin
 
  #11  
Old 02-09-06, 06:59 PM
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It sounds like you've looked over the range for a nameplate pretty well. I have a gas range and it is under the lift up top. Never know.

Could be inside the oven door or the broiler drawer. It might even be inside the oven.

As others have said above, you must know the amps the stove will draw to know if it will be safe with the wires and breaker you want to hook up to.

Hope this helps.

Baldwin
 
  #12  
Old 02-09-06, 07:31 PM
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LOL, I prefer 'blondies' approach as far as format...

But IMHO bolide was right on with his questions and what they pertained to.

What most folks here are concened about is you dying or killing people in your family or someone who lives in your house after you've moved on. Who want's that? Why would anyone offer advice in such a situation without knowing all the details?

Electrical stuff aside, curing paint in an attached or even enclosed garage at 500 for hours? ... umm I don't like that picture - tells me someone's not conscious of the potential hazards or just not being very careful. Those fumes are deadly, go everywhere and they last a long time. Have you checked with your neighbors to see if they're ok with your idea? They'll be the ones to report you to the local authorities when they smell it.

But (back to electric) you asked if the stove hookup was ok - and folks tried to get the information to judge whether it was electrically safe. No one has that information yet. My thinking is that if this stove has truely worked on clean cycle at 500 on a 30A circuit before - it will now.

My concern stems from why you asked in the first place - you seem way more conscious (and defensive) of this aspect than the immediate health and life hazard potential. This is a red flag that all may not be what it appears to be.

Is there more to the story?

Regards,

Rob
 
  #13  
Old 02-09-06, 08:23 PM
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For all that hassle, why don't you take the parts to be powdercoated? A good powdercoat shop can custom mix any color/texture/sheen you want. Probably more durable that oven cured paint also.
 
  #14  
Old 02-09-06, 08:29 PM
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I wanted a picture of the doubled-up wires (not the stove). Pictures might tell me what kind of mess is in the panel.
No, I can't tell from what you said whether it is wrong. It could be okay.
Others have pointed out that there simply is not enough info. Nothing about it bothered me. But I haven't seen it for myself.


As for the oven, I'm confident that it draws no more than 24A even if it stays on continuously to maintain 500F.
Since you won't use the burners on top, I think it sounds okay.

If the frame is bonded te the neutral, then you have a shock hazard unless your garage has a wooded floor.


As for the garage being "indoors", that is no joke. That you think it is a joke says a lot about the way you think.




Did everyone see today's Blondie comic strip?
 
  #15  
Old 02-09-06, 09:52 PM
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Actually, solid paragraphs on a computer screen are harder on the eyes than when thoughts or sentences are spaced out. Same with all-capital letters.

Back to the electrical, this range has been on a 30A breaker all this time, right? What is the gauge of the wiring? How old is this installation? Do you have a make/model that we can search on the Internet for an input power requirement?

How often will you be wanting to use the range in this way?
 
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