Pre-Inspection pics - electrical

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  #1  
Old 02-13-06, 09:10 PM
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Pre-Inspection pics - electrical

Looking for oversight - code issues

PIC 1) Is it alright to run wire under the heat / air supply?

PIC 2) Are there any issues the way this wiring is run near plumbing and condensate lines?

PIC 3) Any issues with the way this recessed light is hung? It is close to the Pressure line for heat pump and do I need to have service loop on the 12/2 wire? The Light is I/C rated so insulation can be all contact around it?

Page 3 of my site

Thanks FF

http://mysite.verizon.net/rmacfarland/id2.html
 
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  #2  
Old 02-13-06, 11:19 PM
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I cant answer your questions, but I could not see any cable staples on your romex comming off of your resesed light. I think you are required to have a staple whithen 12 inches of boxes with clamps and 8 inches or less for boxes whithout clamps.

also the water crossover must be ok. What state are you in?
 
  #3  
Old 02-14-06, 06:55 AM
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I don't see any purple cleaner on the PVC waste. Is it even glued together?
 
  #4  
Old 02-14-06, 07:30 AM
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Everything looks okay to me.

For that vent, you need a takeoff and a boot and aluminum tape. All readily available in the HVAC aisle at Home Depot. They also have handouts to show you examples.
 
  #5  
Old 02-14-06, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by joed
I don't see any purple cleaner on the PVC waste. Is it even glued together?
The pros around here use transparent primer.

Is the PVC in Photo #4 a drain or a vent? It looks too low to be a vent and too high to be a drain. Also the pitch looks like a little more than 1/4" per foot.

#5 - the pipes ideally would not touch, obviously. Water hammer from the copper would reverberate into the PVC. Not sure if this is a code issue but a practical one.

#6 - Depending on the CFM of your blower and the area served by this duct, some pros might use a vane inside the trunk to direct more air out this vent. This would usually depend on a calculation. Have you checked to see what kind of airflow you get from the existing register and how opening it affects the rest of the areas served by that trunk?
 
  #6  
Old 02-14-06, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ArgMeMatey
The pros around here use transparent primer.
I thought the whole reason for the purple color was so that the inspector could tell it was used. How would you know if they even used primer when it is clear?
 
  #7  
Old 02-14-06, 08:37 PM
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Thanks for all the replies.

have a staple whithen 12 inches of boxes with clamps and 8 inches or less for boxes whithout clamps.
Thanks for pointing that out. (I'm in Virginia)

I don't see any purple cleaner on the PVC waste. Is it even glued together?
It has the primer on it (can see it lot better from other side but it is there and glued.

For that vent, you need a takeoff and a boot and aluminum tape.
I will check at Depot. I didnt see anything at Lowes that look like it would work.

Is the PVC in Photo #4 a drain or a vent? It looks too low to be a vent and too high to be a drain. Also the pitch looks like a little more than 1/4" per foot.
Its a drain for a 15" bar sink. It has more than 1/4" fall ...... does that create a problem?

#5 - the pipes ideally would not touch, obviously. Water hammer from the copper would reverberate into the PVC. Not sure if this is a code issue but a practical one.
I think I can get a 2X in there and a strap on them to pull them off just a bit.

use a vane inside the trunk to direct more air out this vent.
Good point I will check that out.

One more question..........

I should have all wire pulled and boxes set by Friday> I wont have my sheet rock for a couple of weeks. Should I install all lights and recptacles to check everything out? I would have to take receptacles out before sheet rock but wasnt sure if they need to be in when inspector comes before rock is installed.

Thanks for all the feedback.
FF
 
  #8  
Old 02-15-06, 05:05 AM
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I don't think the 1/4" is a code issue but you will get lots of different opinions from plumbers. Also maybe you don't have the drain vent in there yet, but you need that too. I realize you were asking about electrical, so you should ask about these issues in the plbg. forum if you haven't already.

I would not hook stuff up before the inspection. That would raise the issue of whether you were using the wiring or got the permit after you started the work. If the inspector has concerns he will order a reinspection anyway. After the RI inspection hook up and unhook whatever you want.
 
  #9  
Old 02-15-06, 07:51 AM
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Ok....I'll wait on the Rough in before I hook up

When I set my boxes and pull wire thru... is there a typical length of wire to leave?

When I wire nail within 8" of the plastic box..... do I leave any excess wire. My uncle was a sparky and seems like he used to call it a "service loop" ?
Thanks FF
 
  #10  
Old 02-15-06, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by FairwayFatty
When I set my boxes and pull wire thru... is there a typical length of wire to leave?
I have used six to eight inches measured from the front of the box. Code (1999 300-14) said not less than six inches from where the wires emerge from the cable or raceway, and at least three inches from the front of the box, but give yourself some breathing room.

Around here it's typically wirenutted and curled up, bare ends taped, then stuffed in the box before the sheetrocking. Often it's just stuffed in the box before the inspection, and if the inspector wants to see it, they pull it out. That would vary locally I am sure.

Originally Posted by FairwayFatty
When I wire nail within 8" of the plastic box..... do I leave any excess wire. My uncle was a sparky and seems like he used to call it a "service loop" ?
Thanks FF
Maybe somebody with more experience can comment on this. I am not sure if you secure the wire within 8" of the box if that means 8" actual distance between the staple and the box edge, or 8" of wire length. This might also affect the '1-1/4" from the nearest edge' requirement in 1999 300-4.

Service loops seem like a good idea and we use them in the communications business all the time but I can't say I've noticed them with NM-B. Inside the box is a nice place for a service loop, since once you secure the cable and put the sheetrock up it's pretty tough to do anything with it.

Also if you don't already have it, a good reference with lots of nice diagrams is _Electrical Wiring Residential_ by Ray Mullin. It's available at many libraries. You might want to check it out, or something similar like _Wiring Simplified_ by Richter, before scheduling your inspection.
 
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