My question is. If I have a 200 amp service. Do I have enough room/wattage for an electric stove to be installed? I have an electric water heater 4500 watts. its on a doublepole 20 amp. I have electric baseboard heat.. It's on three double pole 20 amps. 14 feet per 20 amps. the rest of what i have is just basic house hold amps and usage. oh wait. I also have an electric dryer on a 30 amp. The store said to make sure I have enough wattage room in my box. I'm not sure how I do that. But I want to go total electric. I dont know the wattage on the stove. but the amp for it requires a 50 amp and the store guy told me 6/3 wire. any advice would help. i have a friend who has 200 amp service and she has all these things. I feel like I should be ok. But im not sure. She has two levels. I have a three level home.

 

After you do your load calcs, you’ll find that you have way more than enough amps.

 

Welcome praisinbear......many homes built in the 80's around here in N.H. have your exact set-up. Your 200 amp service is very adequate. Go for it.

-Bob

 

Some rather large homes actually require a 400A service, although it is not typical. You are probably just fine with a 200A, the only way to be sure is to compute your demand load. You didn't mention a spa or air conditioning; these are big power users if you have either, don't forget to count them. This is a fairly involved calculation that is more completely explained here:

http://www.selfhelpandmore.com/homew...ns/demandcalc/

An electric range requires either a 40A DP breaker and 8/3 cable or a 50A DP and 6/3 cable. It sounds like you have a more powerful range which would require a 50A DP breaker and 6/3 cable to a NEMA 1450R receptacle.

 

Your water heater, I think should be on a 30 amp doubled pole breaker with noumber 10 wire.

 

Ronald. that is what I thought and the manufacturer manual said #10 wire and either 25 or 30 amp. but two different guys at HD calculated and said a douple pole 20 amp otherwise the tank would catch on fire before tripping the circuit. Well I lost a neice in a fire. I take care of my grandson right now. So thats all they had to say to scare me into going with the 20 amp. Now if that is even more of a fire hazzard ... some one please let me know. I trusted the HD guys cause they both seem to know the calc. I had the book with me when I went there for the breaker and wire. They looked at it. So its not that they didnt know what I actually had wattage wise and what the manufacturer called for.

 

99.99% of all residental water heaters in North America are on 30-amp circuits. The fact that "two different guys at HD" calculate differently doesn't carry much weight with me. Furthermore, it's generally nuts (and a code violation) to do something counter the manufacturer's installation instructions.

The 20-amp breaker is not a fire hazard, but it may trip under certain situations leaving you without hot water. It's most likely to be a problem if three people take a shower in a short period of time, or if you're doing laundry, running the dishwasher and taking a shower. If you're not having trouble with the 20-amp breaker, you can leave it. If you later have problems and need to change the breaker to 30 amps, make darn sure you have #10 wire on that circuit.

 

Is this what you used? What is installed now?

> and either 25 or 30 amp.

Correct. Over 16A often moves up to the next breaker size past 20A.
That's the case here.

> two different guys at HD calculated and said a douple pole 20 amp otherwise
> the tank would catch on fire before tripping the circuit.

They lied. That is utter nonsense.


> Well I lost a neice in a fire.
I am sorry about this.


> So that's all they had to say to scare me into going with the 20 amp.

They had no business doing this. Please don't let emotions overrule logic.

The manufacturer doesn't pay people just $8 to come up with these specifications.


> Now if that is even more of a fire hazard ...

Depends on whether you used #10/2-G copper or equivalent.

If it is only #12, then you have pared down the margin of safety that you would have had by following the manufacturer's directions.


> I trusted the HD guys cause they both seem to know the calc.
They are close. But wrong on two points: it won't catch fire, and you must meet the manufacturer's requirements.


> I had the book with me when I went there for the breaker and wire.
> They looked at it.

But they didn't understand the significance of what it said.


> So its not that they didnt know what I actually had wattage
> wise and what the manufacturer called for.

Barring a typographical error, you go by what the manufacturer requires.

Because your water heater is 18A and not a continuous load, I don't have a problem with using a 20A breaker.
I assure you that a 30A is equally safe.

 

oh ok. yes I did definately use # 10/2 wire. I installed it myself and the breaker. The manual called for 25 or 30 amp. I will get a 25 amp and replace the 20 amp. I really appreciate your help.

 

Depends on the wattage if the heater. If it is not popping the breaker it is fine as is.