BOTH A/C units not running?

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  #41  
Old 03-05-06, 07:35 PM
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I don't know why someone would have connected the lines and then not charged them with refrigerant. But this is the most likely explanation.

PRIVATE BUILDER / FORCLOSURE ? just a thought.

Good luck, I learned alot , as I'm sure others have. Welcome aboard.
 
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  #42  
Old 03-06-06, 08:59 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
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i would not be surprised at all if the builder walked away without charging the system. what a builder does or does not do doesnt surprise me anymore. in general, new construction residential builders and gc's are notorious for shoddy, incomplete work to save $. i am sorry to say it but that is my experience with them. if this was part of a development, say 20 units. 10 pounds of freon at $25 a pound x 20 units and there you have it. its a shame that they so often get away with it. this is only speculation as i said i would not be surprised if this was the case. some builders out there still do take pride in doing a complete quality job, i just dont see them that often.
 
  #43  
Old 05-03-06, 01:17 PM
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Join Date: May 2006
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no r22 wouldnt make it not run. air conditioners are sealed systems so the only way it could possibly leak is if there is a puncture (this recently happened to me)

Originally Posted by ocdetail
Correct me if I'm wrong, but as I understand it, the problems could be: 1. no r-22 was ever charged. 2. Therm wiring wrong. 3. no power to compressors.

I just moved in, so I'm lucky to have a hammer and screwdriver in my possesion...much less a ohm meter. Before I make the 18 mile trip to Lowes, is there anything I can do to narrow down the options? How do I check the thermostat wiring to the compressor contactor? Thank you very much for the detailed response!!
 
  #44  
Old 05-03-06, 06:00 PM
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Location: shasta lake
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Lack of refrigerant, whether R-22, 404a, 12 or what, would cause the unit to go into compressor lockout because of low pressure.
The unit could have a loose line connection (bad compression fitting or solder), or never been filled.
Refrigerant is not something your average DIY should be doing, there is a reason AC people have to be licensed. One wrong slip tightening up that leaky line might get you a good case of frostbite and another hole in the ozone.
Also, say you get a set of gauges and a tank of 22 and read a page on the web on how to put in refrigerant and woops, it wasn't a R-22 system, it was a 134a. Oh well, you just contaminated your whole system and now we are talking money. Don't let me steer you away from DIY or learning stuff on the web. On the contrary, learn all that you can. The more you know, the less you will realize that you really know. I have been just as bull headed about doing things myself, but there are somethings that I am learning now that tells me to call someone instead of diving head first into it. It is usually cheaper in the long run.
Tim
 
  #45  
Old 05-05-06, 06:42 PM
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Location: MO
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It could be several things the first would be the service valves are not open. If they are not open i would question if the system was evacuated.

It might be a good time to bring in the pros to have a look see.

At this point I feel there is nothing you can do for them.
 
  #46  
Old 05-06-06, 04:02 AM
kjf
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If you push the contactor in and the condensor runs than you might not have the control wire from the air handler to the condensor wired in. it should be an 18/2 thermostat wire which tells the condensor to start on colling call from the thermostat
 
  #47  
Old 05-06-06, 04:23 AM
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Location: New Bern, NC
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Originally Posted by kjf
it should be an 18/2 thermostat wire which tells the condensor to start on colling call from the thermostat
A heat pump would be a minimum of three wires connected. common, compressor start, and reversing valve. It would have 24v power also if the control transformer is located in the outdoor section.
 
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