BOTH A/C units not running?

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  #1  
Old 03-02-06, 11:11 PM
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BOTH A/C units not running?

We just moved into this brand new home(private builder foreclosure). When I turned the A/C on for the first time today, I noticed only the fan was running. I went outside and sure enough, neither unit(for upstairs or downstairs) was running. I checked the breaker on the wall next them to ensure they were both set to ON, and pushed all the way in. Then I checked the fuses in my in house fuse box, and they were fine. What am I missing? Something obvious I'm sure. But BOTH brand new units not running HAS to be a clue to something??? Where's the magic button? Please help guys, thanks.
 
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  #2  
Old 03-03-06, 01:27 AM
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We just moved into this brand new home(private builder foreclosure).
So did you contact the builder for advice?

I don't know what you mean when you say "When I turned the A/C on".
Obviously it is not turned on. What did you actually do?

Are your thermostats set to COOL?

Why do you have fuses in a brand new home?

What is the outdoor temperature?
 
  #3  
Old 03-03-06, 04:45 AM
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The only way you'll be able to tell anything is to get a volt meter and see if you have voltage to the units.
 
  #4  
Old 03-03-06, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by bolide
..........Are your thermostats set to COOL?
.........
That would be my initial guess. The way mine is setup, I can turn the air handlers on by themselves.
 
  #5  
Old 03-03-06, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by bolide
So did you contact the builder for advice?

I don't know what you mean when you say "When I turned the A/C on".
Obviously it is not turned on. What did you actually do?

Are your thermostats set to COOL?

Why do you have fuses in a brand new home?

What is the outdoor temperature?
Okay, it was about 78 degrees outside. I switched both upstairs and downstairs thermostats to "cool," and 68 degrees. When I noticed the A/C units were not running(the fans on them were not moving) I turned the thermostats down to 50 degrees, and checked them again. Still doing nothing. I pulled the breaker out of the wall next to each unit outside, and then pushed them all the way back in insuring that they were NOT turned upside down to "off." The HOME air movers are obviously working. There is air coming out of our vents. But the condensers are doing nothing at all. F.Y.I. the heat pumps work fine.
 

Last edited by ocdetail; 03-03-06 at 10:43 AM.
  #6  
Old 03-03-06, 10:54 AM
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the condensers dont get power, it is a series of tubing that the freon flows thru and it enters the condenser as a high pressure gas and exits as a high pressure liquid as a result of being cooled. the compressor and the fan receive power. are the compressors coming on and not the fans or neither the compressors or fans are coming on. check for voltage at the disconnect and in the a/c terminations. if voltage is present it could be faulty therm or incorrect wiring, wrong r-22 amount, the systems were never charged with r-22. if there is power to the line of the compressor and all else is good, it may be an internal wiring problem like the contactor or the start capacitor. do you hear any noise or humming as if the motor is energized but not turning as if it was a lock rotor condition. it is more a contactor or power problem if the fan and compressor are not working. make sure there is 240 volt not single phase. i know everyone always writes 220 volt, but residential is single phase 3 wire 120/240 volt, hots being 180 degrees out of phase. as you mention the fans are working but they should be on a seperate feed and the thermostat wiring may be correct for the fan, but not to the contactor of the compressor.
 

Last edited by tach; 03-03-06 at 12:11 PM.
  #7  
Old 03-03-06, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by tach
the condensers dont get power, it is a series of tubing that the freon flows thru and it enters the condenser as a high pressure gas and exits as a high pressure liquid as a result of being cooled. the compressor and the fan receive power. are the compressors coming on and not the fans or neither the compressors or fans are coming on. check for voltage at the disconnect and in the a/c terminations. if voltage is present it could be faulty therm or incorrect wiring, wrong r-22 amount, the systems were never charged with r-22. if there is power to the compressor and all else is good, it may be an internal wiring problem like the contactor or the start capacitor. do you hear any noise or humming as if the motor is energized but not turning as if it was a lock rotor condition. it is more a contactor or power problem if the fan and compressor are not working. make sure there is 240 volt not single phase. i know everyone always writes 220 volt, but residential is single phase 3 wire 120/240 volt, hots being 180 degrees out of phase. as you mention the fans are working but they should be on a seperate feed and the thermostat wiring may be correct for the fan, but not to the contactor of the compressor.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but as I understand it, the problems could be: 1. no r-22 was ever charged. 2. Therm wiring wrong. 3. no power to compressors.

I just moved in, so I'm lucky to have a hammer and screwdriver in my possesion...much less a ohm meter. Before I make the 18 mile trip to Lowes, is there anything I can do to narrow down the options? How do I check the thermostat wiring to the compressor contactor? Thank you very much for the detailed response!!
 
  #8  
Old 03-03-06, 12:07 PM
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are you able to work with wiring and electricity, i dont mean this as an insult, but i dont want to advise anyone to troubleshoot this type of problem without some knowledge or background. possible injury can result. if this is a new house call the builder. there are two zones with two stats and both blowers work and both compressors dont? well what ever is wrong is probably wrong on both. you do need a tester. and some understanding of basic circuitry and control wiring. again no insult implied. can you call the builder. tell him you will call an hvac or elec contactor and send him the bill? but for you to make any attempt you need a tester and give more info. is there 120/240 volts at the compressor terminations. take the thermostat off and give the color code terminations to each letter. check the splice for the control wiring from the compressor, usually to the air handler and then to the thermostat. the two wire control from the compressor will usually go to the blower. one wire will splice to one side of the transformer and the other wire will splice down to the thermostat. there are different ways of splicing and routing this cable though. i can go on writing as there are more than a few things to check and its difficult without seeing
 

Last edited by tach; 03-03-06 at 12:17 PM.
  #9  
Old 03-03-06, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by tach
are you able to work with wiring and electricity, i dont mean this as an insult, but i dont want to advise anyone to troubleshoot this type of problem without some knowledge or background. possible injury can result. if this is a new house call the builder. there are two zones with two stats and both blowers work and both compressors dont? well what ever is wrong is probably wrong on both. you do need a tester. and some understanding of basic circuitry and control wiring. again no insult implied. can you call the builder. tell him you will call an hvac or elec contactor and send him the bill? but for you to make any attempt you need a tester and give more info. is there 120/240 volts at the compressor terminations. take the thermostat off and give the color code terminations to each letter. check the splice for the control wiring from the compressor, usually to the air handler and then to the thermostat. the two wire control from the compressor will usually go to the blower. one wire will splice to one side of the transformer and the other wire will splice down to the thermostat. there are different ways of splicing and routing this cable though. i can go on writing as there are more than a few things to check and its difficult without seeing
No offense taken. Though I'm known as the "handyman" for my friends and family, I have little experience with home electrical. But I'm not accident prone, so I'm willing to give it a shot where I can. I just took a bunch of pics, including wire terminations, that I'm sure will help. Just waiting for my picture phone to work(error:network issues). I'll post as soon as I can upload them. Thanks again for the advice!
 
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Old 03-03-06, 04:21 PM
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Hopefully these shots help. If any other shots would help, just say so!

thermostat

thermostat closeup

Condensers

breaker

condenser closeup

other
 
  #11  
Old 03-03-06, 04:42 PM
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ocdetail,

we are not trying to be a**holes around here, but what is your problem with not getting a hold of the s.o.b. who built the thing? the place is new is it not? i wouldn't want to mess with anything that might void a warranty or something like that. call them and stay on their butt until they come out, then follow them around like a puppy to see what they messed up or didn't hook up, it may help you in the future, ask questions, take notes, this your brand new home guy! i agree with what the other great posters said, but it is the responsability of the builder to take care of this situation. by the way, things that you need to put on your list of gift items, hammer(good one), set of good screw drivers, nut drivers, a ladder, don't go cheap on a garden hose, you know what i'm talking about. congrats on your new home.

barry

p.s. post any other heat pump/air handler problem on the specific forum provided by this site if you please, more of the greats live there.
 
  #12  
Old 03-03-06, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by brentwoodpmg
ocdetail,

we are not trying to be a**holes around here, but what is your problem with not getting a hold of the s.o.b. who built the thing? the place is new is it not? i wouldn't want to mess with anything that might void a warranty or something like that. call them and stay on their butt until they come out, then follow them around like a puppy to see what they messed up or didn't hook up, it may help you in the future, ask questions, take notes, this your brand new home guy! i agree with what the other great posters said, but it is the responsability of the builder to take care of this situation. by the way, things that you need to put on your list of gift items, hammer(good one), set of good screw drivers, nut drivers, a ladder, don't go cheap on a garden hose, you know what i'm talking about. congrats on your new home.

barry

p.s. post any other heat pump/air handler problem on the specific forum provided by this site if you please, more of the greats live there.
Private builder.....foreclosure....."AS-IS".....won't, and doesn't have to, return my call. So here I am. If it was as simple as calling the builder, I wouldn't be on here talking about it. Carefull what you assume.
 
  #13  
Old 03-03-06, 08:15 PM
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Did you check to see if the disconnects have the pull in them?

If you open the cover on the disconnect (the grey box on the wall behind the condensers) if you see what looks like slots then the pull is not there.
If there is a handle then try pulling it out and turnning it upside down and reinserting it. It could be they did that so no one would mess with it.

I just saw the pic of the disconnect open, the pull is upside down. Pull it out turn it upside down and put it back in. You will feel it go in. You may have to push it a little.
 
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Old 03-03-06, 08:20 PM
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<span class="highlight">deletingspan>
 
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Old 03-03-06, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob61
I just saw the pic of the disconnect open, the pull is upside down.
It looks okay to me. The plastic is a little crooked, but upside-right.
 
  #16  
Old 03-04-06, 02:52 AM
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You mentioned that the heat pump works fine.

Are you saying that in heat mode the outdoor section runs ??

If not did you check the breakers inside the house for the outdoor units ??

To check the t-stat jumper out R+Y+G. That should bring on the outdoor unit and the indoor blower.
 
  #17  
Old 03-04-06, 06:11 AM
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add a voltage tester to brentwoods list and a good continuity tester. if the R to Y jumper does not help open the compressor access cover, you will need a screwdriver or nut driver and check for line voltage on the line side of the contactor. make sure the disconnect on the wall behind it is in the on position. if its 3 wire plus ground check for 120 volt from each hot probably black and red to neutral and ground. then check across the black and red for 240 volt. it you say the blower works then the transformer is good. one more thing, take the access cover off and on the contactor should be a manual push button momentary switch. push it in. this is bypassing all of the controls and you are manually closing the contactor. open the access cover and take a picture.
 
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Old 03-04-06, 06:37 AM
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Wow, thanks for all your help guys! I'll get that access panel shot. Can't get away to Lowes till afternoon(new baby, kids), but I'll go grab a meter asap.



edit: here's some more shots, including the access panel tach.

name
disconnects
panel-1
panel-2
panel-3
inside box-1
inside box-2
inside box-3
 

Last edited by ocdetail; 03-04-06 at 07:35 AM.
  #19  
Old 03-04-06, 08:41 AM
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i just realized this is a heat pump system. you said in an earlier post the heat pump works fine. does this mean when you switch the thermostat to heat the fan and compressor are on and hot air blows in thru the ducts. when you switch to cool nothing happens? and this happens with both zones. jumper the R terminal to the Y and the O terminal this will put 24 volts to the compressor contactor and the reversing valve. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Heat Pump Reversing Valve 101
I get many question about and I make reference to the reversing valve on heat pumps. Until now I have no pages on it but That is changed. Here it is.


Image of a heat pump reversing valve out of the box (click on the image to see the larger view). This valve is about to be installed on a 20 year old Dunham Bush unit that the previous valve was damaged due to improper installation. This valve is made by Ranco but could also have been made by Alco (division of Emerson Electric).

This valve does not have the electric coil installed which would be where the silver frame is. Once the valve is installed and the system tested for leaks the coil will be added.

Replacing one of these valves is not a job for the faint of heart. It is the most difficult repair that you can make on a heat pump above and beyond replacing the compressor. Installing the valve is difficult enough, not burning it up is even harder. It requires very good brazing skills and media to cool the valve while brazing. On one job we used snow to cool the valve between joints.

There is a right and wrong way to install the valve. On most system the valve is installed so that with no power to the valve it will be in heat mode, Rheem and Ruud (don't ask me why) the valve is placed so that cooling is the default even if it has a relay to invert the 24 volt AC "O" signal. On Rheem and Ruud they also use a high voltage coil as opposed to 24 volts from the inside, so if the unit is in heating when unit power is removed it will revert to cooling instantly. Which means that on other systems there is no such thing as the reversing valve "reverting to cooling" or "going into heating mode" It will only go into cooling with a signal to the coil otherwise it is in the heating mode.

The way the reversing valve works is the solenoid valve opens pressure ports to operate a nylon slider in the cylinder. This sleeve can jam or bind half way (called "wind milling") and will over heat the compressor in a few minutes. Once this happens there is little chance that the valve will work again. If the valve is over heated when being installed it is trash and will never move. If the system is very contaminated after a Burn Out it may stop the valve form working but there is the possibility of getting it to work again after several cycles. It is possible for the valve to stick in the cooling mode but it is more likely to stick in the heat mode.

To do the job replacing this valve we charged $800 and that included adding a TEV for the heat mode to replace a capillary and adding a start kit. The unit that this went into is in excellent shape and has a suction to liquid heat exchanger to increase efficiency. This heat pump is used with an oil furnace
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------this was pulled from a web site. on your model the "O" terminal should be energized to this reversing valve when the thermostat is in the cool position. as stated above if this valve malfunctions it can over heat the compressor and shut it down. also stated this can be difficult to change and about $800. THIS IS ONLY A POSSIBILTY OF WHATS WRONG
 

Last edited by tach; 03-04-06 at 09:26 AM.
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Old 03-04-06, 11:51 AM
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I have read all the posts, but don't remember anyone verifying the wiring inside the disconnects is actually hooked up. The disconnect seems to be inserted correctly, but if it ain't wired, it ain't gonna work. Is there power as far as the disconnect? Just curious. My money is on R-22 deficiency.
 
  #21  
Old 03-04-06, 12:24 PM
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just from what the post author says the disconnects are wired b/c he said the compressor comes on for heat. and the r-22 is charged again b/c the heat works. this heat pump is the a/c and heat in one unit. its a/c in the summer and heat in the winter. basically the reversing valve switchs the jobs of the condenser and evaporator. wether in heat or cool mode the compressor is used.

http://www.goodmanmfg.com/consumer/s...edSite=Goodman
 

Last edited by tach; 03-04-06 at 12:51 PM.
  #22  
Old 03-04-06, 12:56 PM
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Sorry, I see I might have caused some confusion. I have not had the compressors do anything yet. Neither of the fans on the units run, nor does the air coming out of my ducts get cool. The heat pumps work as well as the blowers for the house. I can move air whether I have the heat or cool on. But heat produces hot air, while cool just circulates air. I can not get the a/c units to show any signs of life. Sorry if I used incorrect terms. I really appreciate all your help.
 
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Old 03-04-06, 01:16 PM
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now is the heat being produced by the furnance which is a supplement to the heat pump? now when you say the compressors show no signs of life then in this system they cant make heat either. now were back to a power problem or a r-22 deficienty or whatever refigerent type is used. your thermostat showed a furnance back up which was the E terminal. is there a furnace back up? to check for freon level you need a manifold gauge set and know how to use it. or you can follow the wiring diagram on the compressor cover find the low pressure cut out switch and jumper it with the thermostat on cool or heat. if the freon level is low this will turn the compressor on anyway and verify low or no freon. you also need a voltage tester to verify 240 volts on the line of the compressor contactor.
 

Last edited by tach; 03-04-06 at 01:48 PM.
  #24  
Old 03-04-06, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by tach
now is the heat being produced by the furnance which is a supplement to the heat pump? now when you say the compressors show no signs of life then in this system they cant make heat either. now were back to a power problem or a r-22 deficienty or whatever refigerent type is used. your thermostat showed a furnance back up which was the E terminal. is there a furnace back up?.
Damnit, I did it again with my terminology didn't I? Both heat pumps are working properly. And I have no problem with air flowing through the vents either. After a few hours of running the a/c yesterday(cool, auto, 68 degrees(78 outside)), I noticed the air coming out was not cooler than outside air. I went out to check the A/C units, and the fans on the units were not running. I turned the therm down to 50 and went back outside....the fans on the units still aren't running. Only outside temperature air coming through the vents. There, I think I said that all correctly this time...sorry.

P.S. I'm trapped here today til 10pm. My wife accidently took the truck with the car seat in it. So I have to wait for morning to get the testers from Lowes.
 
  #25  
Old 03-04-06, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by ocdetail
Damnit, I did it again with my terminology didn't I? Both heat pumps are working properly. And I have no problem with air flowing through the vents either. After a few hours of running the a/c yesterday(cool, auto, 68 degrees(78 outside)), I noticed the air coming out was not cooler than outside air.
1) When you set the system to heat and it kicks on are the fans on the units outside running? If they are not your heat pumps are not working (Your ac and heat pumps are both part of the outside unit its one in the same the reversing valve controls wether they heat or cool.)

2)If your fans are not running on top of the heat pump outside when your air handlers blower kicks on and you still have hot air coming out my bet is your emergency heat strips or aux heat inside the handler is what is providing you your heat, this can get very expensive very fast if its the primary source of heat.

Roy
 
  #26  
Old 03-04-06, 07:26 PM
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I'm still leanning to the line voltage to the units.

On the pic with the contactor for the outside unit did you try to push it in manually to see if it runs?

If it runs it might be a low voltage problem or time delay for the unit.

Did you remove the cover to see if the disconnect is wired?
 
  #27  
Old 03-05-06, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by gabe24
1) When you set the system to heat and it kicks on are the fans on the units outside running? If they are not your heat pumps are not working (Your ac and heat pumps are both part of the outside unit its one in the same the reversing valve controls wether they heat or cool.)

2)If your fans are not running on top of the heat pump outside when your air handlers blower kicks on and you still have hot air coming out my bet is your emergency heat strips or aux heat inside the handler is what is providing you your heat, this can get very expensive very fast if its the primary source of heat.

Roy
1) no, the ouside fans on the units have yet to ever turn on. Heat pumps and a/c one in the same? Then why do I have 2 heat pumps inside the house, and 2 a/c units outside the house? One electric heater is in my sons room, ant the other is in the crawl space....how are those 4 seperate units one-in-the-same?

2)My heat pumps don't have fans on them. They are just tan colored boxed electic heaters(one upstairs, one in crawl space). I DEFINETLY don't want to use emergency heat!! The thermostats are set to "norm" not "emergency." And the little light next to "emergency" has hot come on....but now you got me really worried!!
 
  #28  
Old 03-05-06, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Rob61
I'm still leanning to the line voltage to the units.

On the pic with the contactor for the outside unit did you try to push it in manually to see if it runs?

If it runs it might be a low voltage problem or time delay for the unit.

Did you remove the cover to see if the disconnect is wired?
I just figured out what you meant by "push in the contactor." So I went down, pushed it in, and viola....the fan turned on. So what does that mean now????
 
  #29  
Old 03-05-06, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by ocdetail
1) no, the ouside fans on the units have yet to ever turn on. Heat pumps and a/c one in the same? Then why do I have 2 heat pumps inside the house, and 2 a/c units outside the house? One electric heater is in my sons room, ant the other is in the crawl space....how are those 4 seperate units one-in-the-same?

2)My heat pumps don't have fans on them. They are just tan colored boxed electic heaters(one upstairs, one in crawl space). I DEFINETLY don't want to use emergency heat!! The thermostats are set to "norm" not "emergency." And the little light next to "emergency" has hot come on....but now you got me really worried!!

1) The two units outside are heat pumps, heat pumps do both heating and cooling depending on which way the refridgerant flows. There is a valve that controls this. The two units inside your home are the air handlers. They have blowers and electric strip heat in them, the blower is what produces the air movement in your home. The strip heat is what is being used when the tempature drops to low for the heat pump to work, or the heat pump cannot work, or you switch it to emergency heat. If your feeling heat come out of your ducts, and the outside heat pumps are not working then your running on aux heat (Aka emergency heat or electric strip heat).

2) Those tan colored boxes with no fans are not the heat pumps, they are the air handlers. The outside units are the heat pumps the ac/heat pump is one in the same. Even if the thermostat is set to normal, if you set it to heat and the heat pump cannot work it will switch to emergency heat and will not indicate its in this mode.

-Roy
 

Last edited by gabe24; 03-05-06 at 10:17 AM. Reason: wording
  #30  
Old 03-05-06, 10:31 AM
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if the fan and compressor came on by pushing in the contactor, the problem is probably lack of sufficient refigerant. the contactor control wiring may go thru a low pressure switch that will not allow the contactor to close when energized by the thermostat b/c of low refigerant. now you need a manifold gauge set to read the pressure of the system. an amprobe can also be used as the compressor will not draw the stated fla if the regigerant is low
 
  #31  
Old 03-05-06, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by gabe24
1) The two units outside are heat pumps, heat pumps do both heating and cooling depending on which way the refridgerant flows. There is a valve that controls this. The two units inside your home are the air handlers. They have blowers and electric strip heat in them, the blower is what produces the air movement in your home. The strip heat is what is being used when the tempature drops to low for the heat pump to work, or the heat pump cannot work, or you switch it to emergency heat. If your feeling heat come out of your ducts, and the outside heat pumps are not working then your running on aux heat (Aka emergency heat or electric strip heat).

2) Those tan colored boxes with no fans are not the heat pumps, they are the air handlers. The outside units are the heat pumps the ac/heat pump is one in the same. Even if the thermostat is set to normal, if you set it to heat and the heat pump cannot work it will switch to emergency heat and will not indicate its in this mode.

-Roy
WOW, am I glad you told me that. Though I'm still confused a bit about the workings of the a/c as a heater. We have yet to receive our first electric bill......I'm skurd. So now that I've pushed in the contactor on the outside units, and the fan on the unit kicked on, what does that tell me about the problem? Does that just verify that the units may have never been charged with refridgerant? Is there a simple way of checking to see if they have any refridgerant in them at all? Man, I'm really worried about this electric bill.
 
  #32  
Old 03-05-06, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by tach
if the fan and compressor came on by pushing in the contactor, the problem is probably lack of sufficient refigerant. the contactor control wiring may go thru a low pressure switch that will not allow the contactor to close when energized by the thermostat b/c of low refigerant. now you need a manifold gauge set to read the pressure of the system. an amprobe can also be used as the compressor will not draw the stated fla if the regigerant is low
Damn.....let me guess.....the refridgerant I need is not readily available to the public, nor easy to install without expensive equipment.....right? What's something like this gonna cost me out here in Mooresville NC (assuming that the units were simply never filled with refridgerant)? Be gentle tach.
 
  #33  
Old 03-05-06, 12:17 PM
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The general public cannot purchase refrigerants (good thing too - refrigerants are dangerous - of course, the general public is also ).

I didn't see the explanation for how you get heat.
Does the contactor close if you try to heat your house?
 
  #34  
Old 03-05-06, 12:32 PM
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) "no, the ouside fans on the units have yet to ever turn on"


ocdetail, is your statement true whether you put the thermostat on heat or cool? Set the thermostat to heat and go OUTSIDE and see if the fan comes on.
 
  #35  
Old 03-05-06, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by bolide
The general public cannot purchase refrigerants (good thing too - refrigerants are dangerous - of course, the general public is also ).

I didn't see the explanation for how you get heat.
Does the contactor close if you try to heat your house?
No, the contactor does not close. I had my wife go out there and spy on the units while I tried heat(at 80) and cool(at 50) for a minute each. She says she heard a little click from inside the unit....but that's it. The unit fans did not turn on or anything.
 
  #36  
Old 03-05-06, 12:59 PM
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low or no refigerant.
 
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Old 03-05-06, 01:09 PM
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I don't know why someone would have connected the lines and then not charged them with refrigerant. But this is the most likely explanation.

Refrigerant normally comes with the coil.
 
  #38  
Old 03-05-06, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by bolide
I don't know why someone would have connected the lines and then not charged them with refrigerant. But this is the most likely explanation.

Refrigerant normally comes with the coil.
Originally Posted by tach
low or no refigerant.
I suppose this takes me away from the electical section then. Any idea what fee I should expect for someone to fill em up? It's Sunday, so no local places are answering now.
Thanks for all your patients guys. At the very least I learned a few new things from your tech posts tach. Thanks to all.
 
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Old 03-05-06, 01:40 PM
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"refigerant comes with the coil" bolide, what do you mean?
the sytem is piped and then its charged with freon using manifold gauges. if its r-22 it comes in a green tank and flows in the system thru the gauges. the pressure readings on the gauges tell you when it has enough. or you can keep track of the weight of the fill can with a scale. or just fill the system to the motor draws its fla with an amprobe.

i dont know what they charge by you to fill your systems. have them check for leaks they usually will do this anyway. r-22 is pricey per pound, but you really have no choice.
 
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Old 03-05-06, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by tach
"refigerant comes with the coil" bolide, what do you mean?
the sytem is piped and then its charged with freon using manifold gauges. if its r-22 it comes in a green tank and flows in the system thru the gauges. the pressure readings on the gauges tell you when it has enough. or you can keep track of the weight of the fill can with a scale. or just fill the system to the motor draws its fla with an amprobe.

i dont know what they charge by you to fill your systems. have them check for leaks they usually will do this anyway. r-22 is pricey per pound, but you really have no choice.
Ya got that right! No choice at all. Just bend over and take it up the......well thanks again Tach. It's great to have a place like this to go. Maybe someone will need advice from all my years of owning an auto detailing business? It would be nice to give back to the board. Have a great day guys.
 
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