Garage Door goes right back up every time

Reply

  #1  
Old 03-31-06, 01:13 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Canada
Posts: 278
Garage Door goes right back up every time

Hi. When I use the remote (or wall button) to close my garage door, as soon as it hits the ground, it goes right back up. To get it to stay down, once it hits the ground, I push the button on the remote again, and it stays down. It's been doing this for about a year, and now that we're planning on selling the house, I decided it's about time to try and fix it.

Anyone know what the problem might be?

BTW, the garage door opener is a Stanley, 1/3 HP, and probably fairly old (maybe late 70's, when the house was built - not sure though).

Thanks.
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 03-31-06, 01:30 AM
bolide's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: PA
Posts: 1,909
> as soon as it hits the ground, it goes right back up.

Have you tried zero out the set point for fully down?

Perhaps the chain has stretched a little and it thinks it hit something other than the floor.

Get a ladder, climb up and take a close look.
 
  #3  
Old 03-31-06, 05:20 AM
Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Central New York State
Posts: 13,973
This isn't an electrical question, but I'll tell you what to do.

Look in the manual. You need to make an adjustment, and the manual will tell you exactly what to do. The limit control needs to be adjusted. My openers are Chamberlain, so I don;t know exactly what your screw is labeled or where it is, but there is an adjustment screw.

If you don;t have the manual, get it. You can get it from the manufacturers web site or by calling the manufacturer.
 
  #4  
Old 03-31-06, 08:09 AM
Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: CA
Posts: 2,041
Some openers had up and down limit switches phsically mounted on the rail. You might just need to move the down switch, or it might be defective. The opener might have a logic circuit which basically decides that if it does not get a "closed" signal after so many seconds, or gear revolutions, that the door must have hit something, so it reverses it. Pressing your button one more time overrides this.

Worst case, the control board may be defective, and on a unit as old as yours, that might be hard to find and/or expensive.
 
  #5  
Old 03-31-06, 11:56 AM
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 3,188
Genie GDOs have the up/down limit switches. They are adjusted on the rail to shut off the motor when it reaches a preset up or down limit.
 
  #6  
Old 03-31-06, 01:06 PM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: NA
Posts: 1,065
Hi Marie...the 1/3 hp Stanleys of older vintage have 2 adjustment screws on the side of the unit. One is sensitivity and one is the travel adjustment. Look for two small pencil size holes on the side of the motor housing. It sounds like your door is traveling far enough but the sensitivity set point needs adjustment. You will see an arrow pointing in the + direction. You will also see a - at the other end of the arrow. You need to get a ladder and small screw driver. Turn the sensitivity adjustment screw in 1/4 increments in the + direction then try closing the door each 1/4 adjustment. When the door stays down... stop. This screw prevents the door from closing with too much force and possibly injuring a child or infant. It can however be set too sensitive and I believe this is your problem. Once the door stays down place a object under the doorway and close the door, when the garage door hits the object it should reverse letting you know you have the correct adjustment to keep the door from injuring a child. If the door does not reverse then back off the sensitivity about an 1/8 of a turn in the - direction. Then retest. You may also have to tinker with the travel adjustment but I betting the sensitivity will do the trick.

One bit of heads up advice....if you cycle the door too many times in a short period the thermal overload will shut the motor off. You will need to wait approx. 10 minutes for it to cool down and reset itself.
 
  #7  
Old 03-31-06, 09:48 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Canada
Posts: 278
Thank you all for your replies. Much appreciated.

I don't have a manual for it, but it hadn't even crossed my mind to look for one on-line.

Thanks again for your suggestions. I will print them off and try to fix the door tomorrow.
 
  #8  
Old 04-05-06, 01:14 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Canada
Posts: 278
Still haven't figured it out. I couldn't find the manual for it online, but if I can't figure this out, I'll email the company.

I found out the garage wasn't added to the house until the 80s, so the garage door opener is probably around 20 years old.

I took a closer look at the opener. It has 3 knobs...... One says open. One says close. And the other is fairly large and says on it that it is to increase or decrease sensitivity. I moved it bit by bit by bit and still can't get the door to quit reversing once it hits the floor.

Re the chain that runs midway from the door to the garage.....how tight should it be? Should it have any slack in it at all when the door is closed or open? Could the problem be with the chain?

Also, could the problem be with the pully/track on either side of the door? Perhaps one is tighter or looser than the other and needs adjusting? Does anyone know how I would go about adjusting these?

Thanks again. Much appreciated.

p.s. I just found the DIY's Garage forum, so I will try to post a link to this thread over there. However, it seems really quiet in that forum.....
 
  #9  
Old 04-05-06, 03:37 AM
Doorman2722's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: upstate NY
Posts: 751
Originally Posted by Marie12345
Still haven't figured it out. I couldn't find the manual for it online, but if I can't figure this out, I'll email the company.

I found out the garage wasn't added to the house until the 80s, so the garage door opener is probably around 20 years old.

I took a closer look at the opener. It has 3 knobs...... One says open. One says close. And the other is fairly large and says on it that it is to increase or decrease sensitivity. I moved it bit by bit by bit and still can't get the door to quit reversing once it hits the floor.

Re the chain that runs midway from the door to the garage.....how tight should it be? Should it have any slack in it at all when the door is closed or open? Could the problem be with the chain?

Also, could the problem be with the pully/track on either side of the door? Perhaps one is tighter or looser than the other and needs adjusting? Does anyone know how I would go about adjusting these?

Thanks again. Much appreciated.

p.s. I just found the DIY's Garage forum, so I will try to post a link to this thread over there. However, it seems really quiet in that forum.....

Your door opener is traveling too far, then sensing it hit the ground and reversing before it is supposed to shut off via the "down limit" Of the three knobs, turn the closed in the opposite direction the arrow is pointing (I think it is counter clockwise) to reduce how far the door travels. try a half turn at a time. The chain can have a little slack but should not be extremely loose.
 
  #10  
Old 04-05-06, 05:04 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Canada
Posts: 278
I'm starting to get so frustrated with this, as I just can't figure out what I could be doing wrong here... I mean.....with only 3 knobs, how difficult can it be!

I tried turning the 'close' knob in small (and later large) increments, to no avail. Actually, I probably tried this about 40 times.

Then I thought maybe I should try and adjust the 'open' knob, but when I did that, when the door went up, it made quite a large thud, as I'm assuming it just wanted to keep right on going up even further.
 
  #11  
Old 04-05-06, 05:39 PM
Doorman2722's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: upstate NY
Posts: 751
Originally Posted by Marie12345
I'm starting to get so frustrated with this, as I just can't figure out what I could be doing wrong here... I mean.....with only 3 knobs, how difficult can it be!

I tried turning the 'close' knob in small (and later large) increments, to no avail. Actually, I probably tried this about 40 times.

Then I thought maybe I should try and adjust the 'open' knob, but when I did that, when the door went up, it made quite a large thud, as I'm assuming it just wanted to keep right on going up even further.
Then there is probably something broke inside, you should just go ahead and replace it. After all that one is 20 years old. I recommend Liftmaster, Chamberlian or Craftsman
 
  #12  
Old 04-05-06, 05:47 PM
Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Central New York State
Posts: 13,973
It sounds like you adjusted the open knob to make the door open further, and it tried to, hitting the bolt that prevents it from opening too far (producing the thud).

Either you are adjusting the close knob the wrong way, or the adjustment is not working. You want to make the door close less. Unfortunately without a manual I can't tell you whether to turn it clockwise or counter-clockwise.

As for a new door opener, it's probably cheaper to buy a new one than to have the old one repaired.

Chamberlain and Genie make most of the openers sold in the US, including most private label brands, such as Craftsman.
 
  #13  
Old 04-05-06, 06:06 PM
BatMack's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 7
It would probably cost you about 50 to 100 bucks tops to have someone come out and adjust it. I had someone from a company come out and reinstall a whole run for 150 once. Pick your battles.
Lance
 
  #14  
Old 04-05-06, 06:09 PM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 278
Usually around this time of year, Lowe's runs a special on garage door installation--I think it was $69. I think their openers start at about $100. This is something I'm sure I could have done myself, but for $69, why bother. Mine was a tricky installation, and they actually sent their guy back out twice to get it working right. (I only have about 2" of clearance above the rail, which had to be attached to a concrete wall).
 
  #15  
Old 04-06-06, 04:34 AM
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 21
I know this may sound silly but the same thing happend to one of my co-workers and it turned out to be that once the door was approaching the closed position the disengage rope was tripping the safety light (beam). He trimmed the rope and bingo, fixed, just my half penny,

Oz
 
  #16  
Old 04-08-06, 12:34 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Canada
Posts: 278
Not sure what I'll do now, but just wanted to check back and say thanks for responding. I really appreciated it.
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
'