GFCI and split-duplex kitchen-counter plugs


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Old 03-31-06, 09:58 AM
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GFCI and split-duplex kitchen-counter plugs

The code in Ontario, Canada requires that kitchen-counter receptacles beside sinks be GFI-protected, but it also requires that these plugs be split-duplex. I haven't found a split duplex GFI -- does anyone know whether they're made, or is there no solution but to buy a GFI breaker?

Thanks
 

Last edited by Barry Pegs; 03-31-06 at 11:20 AM.
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Old 03-31-06, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Barry Pegs
The code in Ontario requires that kitchen-counter receptacles beside sinks be GFI-protected, but it also requires that these plugs be split-duplex.
Are you sure you heard that right? That's a pretty interesting requirement.

I haven't found a split duplex GFI -- does anyone know whether they're made, or is there no solution but to buy a GFI breaker?
I don't believe they are made - or at least, not readily available.

Such a requirement would make box fill horrendous! Are you sure you heard that right?
 
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Old 03-31-06, 10:32 AM
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Are you sure you heard that right?
Unfortunately, yes: Rules 26-712(d) and 26-722(b) require that kitchen counter receptacles be split receptacles connected to multi-wire 15 amp branch circuits. Rule 26-700(12) states that effective January 2003:
Receptacles located in kitchens and installed within 1 m of a kitchen sink along the wall behind counter work surfaces shall be protected by a ground fault circuit interrupter of the Class A type.
There's an out:
Rule 26-726 permits the installation of 5-20 RA (T-slot) receptacles connected to single 20 amp branch circuits as an alternative to split receptacles and circuits. In both cases adjacent receptacles shall not be connected to the same branch circuit.
Doesn't help me, unfortunately, because the 20A receptacles would have to be supplied with 12-2 cable, but what's there is 14-3 (for the split receptacle).
 
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Old 03-31-06, 10:48 AM
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That fascinates me.

So, what you need to do is determine the brand and style of breakers to install in your panel, and aquire a 15-amp two-pole GFCI breaker to match, to feed the 14-3 home run. It needs to be rated 120/240 (provided you're on a 120/240 system) so that it can operate correctly for a multiwire branch circuit.

Unfortunately, yes: Rules 26-712(d) and 26-722(b) require...
Can you post the text of these rules, by chance?
 
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Old 03-31-06, 10:49 AM
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It is existing pre new code. You can leave it as is. If you want GFCI you will need to go with a double pole GFCI breaker.
 
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Old 03-31-06, 10:58 AM
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One other item to note, although in your circumstance the NEC appears not to apply: The NEC requires us to wirenut and pigtail the neutrals for a multiwire circuit, as opposed to relying on the device to be intact for the neutrals downstream.

An open neutral in a multiwire circuit can cause the voltage on one leg to get very high, and the voltage on the other leg to get very low. For example, a 6 amp disposal on the black leg and a 3 amp dishwasher on the red leg of a multiwire circuit would see 160V and 80V, respectively, if the neutral were opened.

To increase the reliability of the neutral, it's forbidden to use the device to connect incoming and outgoing neutrals in a box. Whether required in your area or not, it's a good idea, IMO.
 
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Old 03-31-06, 11:18 AM
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Can you post the text of these rules, by chance?
No, unfortunately. My info is from a study-guide that paraphrases and explains but only quotes intermittently and doesn't quote those particular rules verbatim. I had a bit of a look around using Google but can't find the text quoted directly anywhere on the internet.
 

Last edited by Barry Pegs; 03-31-06 at 12:25 PM.
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Old 03-31-06, 12:31 PM
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You need a GFCI breaker for your situation.
 
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Old 03-31-06, 02:20 PM
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http://www.esainspection.net/business/faq.php

Here is a link to Ontario Code FAQ.
 
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Old 03-31-06, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by joed
http://www.esainspection.net/business/faq.php

Here is a link to Ontario Code FAQ.
Yes... thanks for the info. For any still following, the relevant info is as follows:

http://www.frontlines247.com/frontli...c.asp?FaqID=50
Code compliant GFCI protection of the split circuit and receptacle option can be achieved by installing a 2 pole 15 amp GFCI circuit breaker at the panelboard.
Which is what I thought, but I'd hoped there would be a cheaper solution,
 
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Old 03-31-06, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by joed
It is existing pre new code. You can leave it as is. If you want GFCI you will need to go with a double pole GFCI breaker.
I'm rewiring, which (as I read it) unfortunately means I have to follow current rules.
 
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Old 03-31-06, 08:29 PM
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It's not unfortunate - that GFCI might save someone's life.
 
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Old 03-31-06, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Rocky Mountain
It's not unfortunate - that GFCI might save someone's life.
No argument there. But what I have is 14-3 cable and an inbred inclination to economize.

So if I have to choose between GFCIing and splitting the receptacles, I'm inclined to install GFCI receptacles and not split them.

Frankly, the rationale for splitting the receptacles seems a trifle nannyish: I solemnly promise not to plug in four kettles simultaneously. If some future jackass does so, he may have to walk down a flight of stairs and reset the breaker. My bad.

I don't mean to be flippant, really I don't. Yes, it's a one-time expense, and in the end I'll probably be virtuous and buy the 2-pole GFCI anyway, because I am inherently Hank Hill. http://www.fox.com/kingofthehill/pic...opup/pic02.jpg

But when I go to sell the house, I'll drag the prospective buyer by the ear down to the breaker panel and say, "Look, I spent a hundred bucks on a 2-pole GFCI breaker just so you could run your seven toaster ovens at once" and he'll say "huh?" and I'll smack myself in the forehead and say "Wow! I coulda had a V-8!"
 
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Old 09-18-10, 06:11 PM
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Cool clarification of 15/20 amp application

Hold on there... simply converting existing non-GFCI plugs to GFCI next to the sink is not what the code says... you may be in violation if you do that. Kitchen plugs may be either 15-amp split-plug or 20 amp (non-split) plugs. Any plug, within 59" of the sink that is 15 amp must be split-plug type with GFCI protection, which can only be accomplished by means of an expensive 2-pole GFCI 15 amp breaker. This requires 14/3 wiring. If the plug within 59" of at the sink is 20-amp, fed by 12/2 or 12/3 wiring, it must be GFCI but does not have to be split plug . In this fashion, you do not need the expensive GFCI 2-pole breaker, as you can use a more common 20-amp GFCI (15/20 amp T-slot) GFCI plug/recepticle. You may not take such an existing 15 amp circuit within 59" of the sink and convert it to GFI unless it is a split plug, and you do have to it right. Suppose you have an existing 15 amp kitchen plug circuit (split or not) and you re-arrange the kitchen layout so a sink is now next to an exisiting 15 amp plug... it is a big no-no to simply put a GFCI plug/recepticle in that original 15 amp spot becaused it has to be split and GFCI protected. If you are lucky and the wiring is already 14/3 then a change of the existing split breaker to an upgraged 2-pole 15 amp GFCI breaker is needed and requires no rewiring. Bad news for you if the plug is only 14/2 15 amp... you need to upgrade to 12/2 for 20 amp GFCI or 14/3 for a new GFCI 15 amp split-plug by means of the special (expensive) breaker. For anyone considering 15-amp split plugs in a new kitchen (or remodel) , remember any such 15-amp split plug within 59" radius (arc) of any edge of the sink has to be GFCI, therefore a big $$ breaker is needed. 20 amp plugs are not required to be split, so the GFCI receptacles/plugs are not as costly to fit into place, but you loose on circuit capacity versus the split plug in this configuration (plug in the coffee-maker and toaster on the same 20 amp plug and "poof".. whereby the 15 amp split-plug can take both loads no problem). The choice is yours in kitchen design: either 15 amp split or 20 amp (non-split) but GFCI regardless within 59" arc of the sink... and that includes an island plug with 59" of the sink!
 
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Old 09-18-10, 10:37 PM
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wow this seems outrageous to me...if it was me i would say to hell with it and one in out outlet box i would put a gfci on pole a and on pole B the other gfci in the next box with the same 14-3
 
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Old 09-19-10, 06:18 AM
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Before today the last post was from over 4 years ago.
 
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Old 09-19-10, 08:33 PM
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oh LMAO i didn't even notice that thanks for pointing that out PCBOSS... rogram:
 
 

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