A question about occupancy sensors

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Old 04-13-06, 09:42 AM
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A question about occupancy sensors

Is there anything in quality between the $20 motion switches from the home centers and the $120 commercial switches? I put a low voltage undercabinet light in my closet with a switch. But I'd like to use the motion switch to make sure the light turns off when the closet door closes. The issue is my closet is narrow in width to meet the letter of the code for clearances, but I need a light in there. so the motion switch would be an extra security to make sure the light never overheats. Problem being the cheapy switch won't work at all with the low voltage load and isn't all that reliable with the specified load.

So is there any other options? A door frame switch is not a pleasant option. 110 year old hard wood doors and frames that I really don't want to rip apart.
 
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Old 04-13-06, 10:05 AM
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> I put a low voltage undercabinet light in my closet with a switch.

Why low voltage?


> The issue is my closet is narrow in width to meet the letter of the code for clearances,

How much less than 6" do you have? Where is the transformer?


> but I need a light in there, so the motion switch would be an extra security
> to make sure the light never overheats.

First of all, you want to use a light that can't overheat.


> So is there any other options?
A momentary contact switch that stays on only while you hold the button.

A small remodel to get 6" clearance.

A translucent panel to allow light from the room to enter.
 
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Old 04-13-06, 11:10 AM
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By low voltage I mean it's a 120V corded undercabinet fixture with an internal transformer to power the low voltage xenon bulbs.
This fixture was chose by my wife for having the best light spectrum for seeing the color of the clothes. It also has a high and low setting. Low(low heat as well) is fine for daily use and we will only ever need to switch it to high if we're really digging for something.
I chose the fixture because it allowed me to get a light at the top of the closet that had a very low profile for maximum clearance. Being cord connected it will also be very easy to remove should it become a code issue if and when we sell

NEC code clearances require you to have a closet wide enough that if someone would put a 12" shelf on either side of the closet there would still be adequate clearance to the fixture. These closets will never have shelves on the side so I believe I have met the intent of the code, if not the letter of the code.

Frankly I think meeting code is a joke anyway. I have gone to great lengths in this house to meet modern code from box fill to derating to clearances and distances. I have yet to meet one single electrician on the job site that pays the slightest attention to box fill at all and every single one of them bundles miles of romex directly on top of each other and the inspectors never call it. I see so many code violations it's not even funny, and have for years. CODE appears to be up to the relationship between the inspector and the electrician. Hell the one thing I did pay an electrician to do in this house was the new service and there are two obvious code violations that were inspected and approved. This was from the "most difficult" inspector in the area.

So I was looking to see if the $120 occupancy sensor with a proper relay was my only option for adding an extra measure of safety and function. A momentary switch is an option I hadn't thought of. So is the answer to the occupancy sensor question $120 a closet and that's that?
 
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Old 04-13-06, 01:59 PM
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If you think meeting code is a joke then don't look for advice here.
 
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