need help to install a 220 line for stove

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  #1  
Old 04-28-06, 11:12 AM
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Question need help to install a 220 line for stove

What a great site this is! We just moved into our 2000 sq. ft. double wide manufactured home and we need help in installing our 2002 Frigidaire Gallery electric stove. The past owners had gas and we really need to get this done before I get under 90 lbs. lol. Our stove plate saids we have a 120/240 60 hz 3 wire 11.5 kw @120/240....Our circuit panel box saids no more then 100 amps. UL panel class CTL We have 2 free spots but my husband needs help in installing the wiring. He did this years ago for my kiln in our previous stick home but he really needs a refresher course.The box is 8 feet away from the stove. Thank you for any help you can give us, really!
Deb
 
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Old 04-28-06, 11:24 AM
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You and your husband need to be very careful. Unless you have a shut off outside the house, there will be power in the circuit breaker panel even with it's main breaker turned off.

You need a 240 volt 50 amp circuit breaker designed for your panel. Write down the manufacturer of your panel and the other information from the panel and good electrical supply store can get you a proper breaker.

You then need 8 gage cable (8-3 with ground) to run from the panel to the receptacle you will install for the stove.

The receptacle needs to be a four wire receptacle and should be mounted on or in the wall behind the stove.

Might I suggest that you buy a book on wiring. You will find them at the big box stores. They will explain this in more detail.
 
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Old 04-28-06, 01:51 PM
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Correct me if i'm wrong, but wouldn't 6-3 be needed for a 50A breaker. I always thought 8-3 was for 40A only.
 

Last edited by BOA; 04-28-06 at 02:02 PM.
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Old 04-28-06, 02:51 PM
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Table 310.16 of the NEC, for no more than three current-carrying conductors in a raceway (etc.) for THHN, THWN-2 (and some others that are 90-degree C rated,) shows ampacity of 55A for #8 copper. #6 is up to 75A in those conditions.

#8 is only rated for 40A in UF or TW insulated conductors (60-degree rated) in that raceway (or earth, etc.)

50A for 75-degree conductors.
 
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Old 04-28-06, 06:33 PM
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NEC also requires that the ampacity add an additional 125% to the calculation {i.e 11,500w by 240v =47.9 multiplied by 1.25= 59.8 or 60amps}.Therefore a 6/3 cable & a 60 amp breaker would be required
 
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Old 04-29-06, 03:36 AM
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NEC also requires that the ampacity add an additional 125% to the calculation {i.e 11,500w by 240v =47.9 multiplied by 1.25= 59.8 or 60amps}.Therefore a 6/3 cable & a 60 amp breaker would be required

Yes, but table 220.55 applies a demand factor that allows a 50 AMP circuit to be used for ranges up to 12KW, which is standard.

If you use type SER cable #8 is large enough. If you use NM-B cable you must use #6 (assuming copper) As has been pointed out, this must be a 4 wire cable. I also agree a book is a good place to begin.
 
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Old 04-29-06, 05:21 AM
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DebbieK,

Before you buy any wire or install anything, you need to do some significant planning. There are many details to a proper installation, and the fact that a particular installation _works_ does not mean that it is either safe or up to code. Additionally, there are so many details in an electrical installation, that there is no way that any of us could tell you everything that you need to know. The best we can do is to answer your specific questions, and possibly make guesses at the things that you don't know. We can answer your specific questions, but we can't help you with issues that you don't even know to ask about.

The proper way to approach this project and to use the services of this board is to start with some reading. Get a couple of books on electrical wiring, and read through them. Learn what a basic installation requires. All the 'little' things like wire temperature ratings, cable protection, box fill, grounding, etc.

Along with reading the books, you must also find out what your local electrical code requires. Some places are more restrictive than the standard code, for example, requiring the use of metal conduit rather than plastic cable. You don't want to do an installation only to find out that you need to rip it out and start over. You should always know what the local legal requirements are for inspection and permits; the last thing that you want is for your home-owner's insurance to be invalidated because you didn't do the proper paperwork. An inspection also provides an experienced pair of eyes to make sure you didn't miss anything.

Ask questions here as you go along. We will give you suggestions and help you plan this project properly.

On your installation: you need to do a 'demand calculation'. Search this forum for examples. We can help you do this calculation if you post all of the relevant information (square footage of house, number of bathrooms, major electrical appliances, electric heat, electric AC, electric hot water, etc.). It may be that your supply service is too small to support this range.

Next you need to determine what sort of wiring method you will be using: cable in the wall? Conduit on the surface? Conduit in the wall?

Next you need to decide: hard wire (wires are permanently attached to the range) or cord and plug connected. Local code may dictate this one way or the other.

Next, you need to size the circuit. The nameplate on the range may specify a circuit size. If it simply says 11.5 kW, then the minimum circuit size that the NEC requires is a 40A circuit protected by a 40A breaker. I strongly recommend that you exceed the NEC requirements and use a 50A circuit with a 50A breaker. The breakers cost the same, the wire only slightly more expensive, and you only have a short distance to go.

Depending upon the wiring method you selected, and the circuit size you select, you will have different requirements for wire size, anything from #8 conductors to #6 conductors. Tell us what wiring method you decide to use, and we'll tell you what conductor size is necessary.

Sorry to throw all the questions and planning back at you, but without proper background you can install something that looks good, works, and is a time bomb.

This is a project that a careful and prepared lay person can do safely and correctly, but it will require a bit of preparation.

Best Regards,
Jon
 
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